The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ACT 2600 problems

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jvm5035

Probationary Member
18
0
Oct 20, 2010
Whitehall, Pennsylvania
I finally got my motor and trans in the car and now I can't put it into gear with the engine running :banghead:. However if I start the car in gear it doesn't lurch forward, and the clutch engages about 2 inches off the floor. I can also put it back into neutral without a lot of effort, but still it won't go back in gear. The clutch is properly bled, and the clutch fork sits directly in the middle of the opening.

I installed a B&M short throw (set at 50%), an ACT 2600 clutch kit with a ACT lightened flywheel before I put it back together.

I haven't tried tightening the push rod yet in the car, but was wondering if I should skip that and just pull the trans to shim the pivot ball... or would it be better to buy a new clutch fork and pivot ball then not shim it?
 
I recently installed an ACT 2600 in my 1g and I can tell you that my experience was almost identical in every way to yours. I actually ended up pulling the trans and placing two reular size washers under the pivot ball to solve the grinding from neutral to any gear. I had all the same symptoms including a center located clutch fork. I found that after more research that the fork should actually favor more towards the motor as you are looking at it from outside the bell housing.
Anyway, after the two washers were installed, it has worked beautifully! Good luck and hope I helped?
 
Thanks for the advice. I wish I would've read about the shimming before I installed the damn thing, just one more set back ha.

I was looking at the clutch fork from the outside of the trans. And I haven't replaced the master or slave, but they seem to be fully fuctional since the slave fully extends and doesn't retract at all when the pedal is held to the floor.

So if I decide to buy a new pivot ball and clutch fork, will I still need to shim it?
 
Shimming is a bandaid. Have you adjusted the pedal? Also did you have the flywheel stepped properly for the 2600?
 
Its a 2G, although I know of clutch engagment problems with the 1G's from my FWD. I haven't had a chance to adjust the pedal yet, I did look to see if I had room for adjustment and theres about a 1/4 inch of threads I could use up. I'm planning on turning that in before I pull the trans just to see if it'll work.

Tyeler18 when you say shimming is a bandaid fix, I understand that. But like I asked will new OEM parts fix the problem without using a shim? And to be honest with you I'm not 100% sure if the flywheel is properly stepped, I bought the clutch and flywheel on the motor I rebuilt. Supposivly only had about 3000 miles on them, and nothing looked abused at all. I also installed a new OEM TOB from the dealer with the set up.

Allright so I turned in the rob for the clutch adjustment and I have the same problem, guess I'll be pulling the trans tomorrow.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ya go to youtube and look up jackstransmissions and their will be a detailed listing of how to adjust the clutch,

Ive heard of a lot of my friends having to shim the 2600 as well. but they also installed new masters and slave because of the extra force needed for the 2600

you can do this two ways. rip it all apart, get the flywheel stepd correctly and get the new fork and pivot point and put it together, its all in the flywheel step

or if money is a problem then the shim should work, personally i HATE pulling my tranny in and out of my gsx PISSES ME OFF to no end so when i had to yank mine out a second time i did everything i listed above just to make sure it wasnt coming out a third time ( and mine was simply a 2100 )
 
Yea I'm not to happy about having to pull the trans again, I swear I'm gonna buy a lift one of these days to make things easier ha. Is there any way to check the flywheel with it on the car to see if its stepped properly? I wouldn't see why its not seeing how the clutch and flywheel were together on a running car. Unless he rigged something up just to get it to work as well....
 
I would start with the master and slave cylinder then make sure it is adjusted correctly... the 2600 puts alot of stress on old slaves
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top