Act 2600

[School Boy]

I am looking into getting a ACT 2600. I was wondering if anyone here had personal experience with them and how the performed.

How far have you pushed it? How much power can they hold?

Any info would be great!

 

[bastarddsm]

I run a 2600 and I have zero problems other than the inherent "centrifugal assist" due to the thick fingers. It compresses the slave and it requires extra travel to release. I have tweaked it enough so that I don't have release issues. I shift at 9600 with a single synchro trans. My car has a factory un touched pedal assembly, and I dd the car.

 

[School Boy]

I run a 2600 and I have zero problems other than the inherent "centrifugal assist" due to the thick fingers. It compresses the slave and it requires extra travel to release. I have tweaked it enough so that I don't have release issues. I shift at 9600 with a single synchro trans. My car has a factory un touched pedal assembly, and I dd the car.

This is what I like to hear. You gave me so good info in my other thread as well.

How many miles/how long have you been running the 2600?

 

[u2slow]

Dont do it, get a Southbend from TMZPERFORMANCE.com. I am getting a SB clutch asap.

A couple of questions.
Is a SB clutch from TMZ different than a SB clutch from another vendor?
Are you recommending a clutch you have no experience with?

 

[kchaazz]

A couple of questions.
Is a SB clutch from TMZ different than a SB clutch from another vendor?
Are you recommending a clutch you have no experience with?

The ones from Tim @ TMZ are different. Tim has been working with them to modify the pressure plates so as to increase the engagement window, require less force to actuate and still provide good torque holding capability

 

[Awd-laser]

I run a 2600 and I have zero problems other than the inherent "centrifugal assist" due to the thick fingers. It compresses the slave and it requires extra travel to release. I have tweaked it enough so that I don't have release issues. I shift at 9600 with a single synchro trans. My car has a factory un touched pedal assembly, and I dd the car.

How did you "tweak" the slave/master cyl in order to eliminate release issues? I've been on a 2600 since June 2013 and I would love to know more.

 

[School Boy]

How did you "tweak" the slave/master cyl in order to eliminate release issues? I've been on a 2600 since June 2013 and I would love to know more.

I would too seeing is that I just picked up a 2600.

 

[u2slow]

bastarddsm might chime in with his tweaks, but for me it goes like this.

A good, preferably OEM slave and master cylinder.
A good clutch pedal assembly.
Steel braided clutch line.
New clutch fork & pivot ball.
OEM throw out bearing.
Make sure the system is bled completely.

If there is any play at all in the clutch pedal assembly, you will have problems. Some people will object to this, but I have found that a little longer adjustment rod on the master cylinder is helpful. Be careful not to adjust too far or you can damage the master cylinder. The last non-OEM master cylinder I bought already had a longer rod. A longer rod on the slave cylinder doesn`t help IMO.

The issues kchaaz brought up are legit. His clutch pedal assembly problems seem to be extreme. But, disengagement problems are an issue with this clutch. I`ve always had a little trouble with high RPM shifting.

The clutch on my FWD DD needs replacing and was thinking about an ACT 2100 instead of a 2600. I haven`t made up my mind yet.

 

[School Boy]

I am getting a SB clutch asap. These have a better engagement window and require less stress on the moving parts and hold well.

Did you get the SB clutch yet? Hows it holding up??

 

[Clinical]

ACT2600 in my old laser, the one my time slip / video on this site is still from that car.

Made about 400-425whp for 20-30k miles on the 2600. Lots of launches and one accidental 3rd gear launch that roasted the clutch. Then on a new setup went another 5k or so at around 500whp. Sold the car with it, still worked great.

My current car has an ACT2600 as well.

When it comes to DSMs I personally will either run ACT2600 or a Twin Disc. ACT is my favorite brand of average clutches for DSMs. Otherwise when it comes to other cars I have different preferences such as comp clutches for hondas.

 

[School Boy]

Right now all I have is a disk. All the horror stories I am hearing about the ACT 2600 wrecking 1G pedal assemblies is really turning me off to buying a 2600 PP.

 

[ErikTande]

The pedal feel of the 2600 here really turns me off... Tom's Turbo Garage talks about it in one of his videos here: [ame=http://youtu.be/WsMGmzROxP0]Tom's Turbo Garage: Eagle Talon Turbo - Twin Disc Clutch: Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

I'd really like something with a light pedal (close to stock feel) for a daily driver. Any suggestions?

 

[untouchablecc]

Ive run BOTH the SSTZ kevlar disk and 2200 pp, ACT2600 w street disk, 2600 6 puck unsprung, 2600 sprug 4 puck. I had a bad experience with the Southbend clutch but it is because I bought it used and the disk was glazed and not broken in properly ( I didnt realize it during install). It has 500 or so miles on it and was not broken in properly because they do tend to have a long break in window. I thought since it had the low miles it would be ok. I met Tim Zimmerman in ohio a few years back and showed him the clutch and he said he would replace the disk and acid treat the pressure plate and work on price with me if not warranty the disk itself. I am going to give the SS series another try on a 7bolt car I just picked up. The South bend clutch series has a good following on here and plenty of positive reviews. Many cars are making close to 500hp without issues.

I have had failure with the ACT 2600 series and also success. I had the same issue with the fingers blowing off the pressure plate and going through my bell housing like someone had mentioned. It was a DD I rarely launched and never tracked. I think ACT had a drop in quality control at the time and replaced the entire clutch kit free of charge. I have a 2600 4 puck sprung in one car I DD for the past year. Never replaced the OEM clutch components just used a factory TOB. Put one small shim behind the pivot ball. Original slave and master. This is my favorited ACT clutch to date. I do not have the high shifting issues I had with the street disk and 6 puck unsprung. I have shifted right into 3rd without grinding at 8500 rpm like butter on a stock transmission never rebuild. If I were to run a 6 bolt engine on the street it would be a 2600 4 puck sprung hands down. The only complaint is that there isnt much of a window for slipping the clutch but thats the price you pay for performance.

 

[Funfettie]

I have had mine for 2 years or so. Started slipping at around 600whp, maybe 500 and some torque, drags like MAD after adjusting it as much as possible, wrecked my TRE 4th stage gearbox. In my opinion, I hate it. For higher power levels, save the time and money, go with a twin disk setup. if your shooting for lower goals in the 400 range, they are decent. Just be ready to replace sincros and gears.

These clutches are known for dragging at high RPM shifts causing the sincro gears to get trashed pretty fast.

 

[School Boy]

Has anyone had disengagement issues with the South Bend SS pressure plate? Do they have any dragging issues?

 

[kchaazz]

Did you get the SB clutch yet? Hows it holding up??

Sorry, lots of other things have come up that have made working on the car prohibitive. Basically, Ive got a new ACT flywheel, new OE throwout bearing, new OE PP bolts, my THIRD rebuilt by Shep pedal assembly, and a new 3/4 hub and slider assembly that Ive got to put into my damn transmission when I pull it out cause I get a slight grind downshifting into third gear because the engagement teeth are worn from the clutch drag. My fork and ball are nearly new too, so Ill be reusing them.
Basically, Ill order the clutch after I move into my new house and then Ill jam it in. Might even do a writeup and cover all the things people should be replacing when doing a clutch job on a 1G DSM too, cause there are so many things that tend to get overlooked and then people wonder why the clutch wont work properly.

 

[School Boy]

Sorry, lots of other things have come up that have made working on the car prohibitive. Basically, Ive got a new ACT flywheel, new OE throwout bearing, new OE PP bolts, my THIRD rebuilt by Shep pedal assembly, and a new 3/4 hub and slider assembly that Ive got to put into my damn transmission when I pull it out cause I get a slight grind downshifting into third gear because the engagement teeth are worn from the clutch drag. My fork and ball are nearly new too, so Ill be reusing them.
Basically, Ill order the clutch after I move into my new house and then Ill jam it in. Might even do a writeup and cover all the things people should be replacing when doing a clutch job on a 1G DSM too, cause there are so many things that tend to get overlooked and then people wonder why the clutch wont work properly.

Ahh I gotcha. I went with a SB pressure plate and a ACT disk. I replaced basically everything clutch related and I just installed everything last weekend. I haven't driven the car yet but when I do I will post about it.

 

[kchaazz]

Which pressure plate did you get? SS, or SSX? Please do tell us how it is. I cant wait to fix mine, just going to be a lot of work, then Im going to send the ACT PP out to someone who can test it to determine why the hell it keeps twisting the crap out of my pedal assemblies

 

[School Boy]

I went with the SS from Tim Zimmer.

I found out there is quite a bit of slop in my peddle assembly. Hopefully everything will be ok though. I am going to adjust the clutch exactly like Jacks video says and I have all new Mitsu parts. Clutch master, slave, braided clutch line, new fork and pivot ball, TOB, ETC. ETC. I don't have the time to take the assembly out and weld it. I will post back in the next week or so when I have the car on the road.

 

[kchaazz]

Well, if it does come to replacing the assembly, dont just weld the old stuff, it will fail quickly, at least it will with an ACT 2600. Im not so keen on using an ACT street disc with that pressure plate because from what limited knowledge I have about clutches, most companies seem to use a pressure plate with a mild to moderate increase in clamping force in conjunction with a disk made from friction material that will further increase holding power, whereas the ACT street disc is just basically a regular old organic disk that utilizes a massive increase in clamping force to maintain holding power. Perhaps Zimmer can chime in on this.

 

[School Boy]

Well, if it does come to replacing the assembly, dont just weld the old stuff, it will fail quickly, at least it will with an ACT 2600. Im not so keen on using an ACT street disc with that pressure plate because from what limited knowledge I have about clutches, most companies seem to use a pressure plate with a mild to moderate increase in clamping force in conjunction with a disk made from friction material that will further increase holding power, whereas the ACT street disc is just basically a regular old organic disk that utilizes a massive increase in clamping force to maintain holding power. Perhaps Zimmer can chime in on this.

I'm not running a street disk. I'm running an unsprung 6 puck ceramic disk.

 

[TsiTuner]

Never had a problem with my 2600. This is my 2nd dsm with one and it works fine for me.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ive been running the 2600 with a solid 6puck and then switched to the spring 6puck, ran my 11.1 @133 on it and never slips. Will probably go to a south bend ssx next though. Havent had problem in 13k miles though.

Im a fan of heavy clutch though

 

[jed344]

I have been running a act 2600 with sprung street disc for around 10k miles with a lot of launches and racing. I am mid 400whp and it recently slipped once on me after a hard launch when i hit 2nd otherwise i have yet to feel it slip but thinking its getting time to upgrade again. The peddle pressure to me is fine but i also prefer the feel of a stiffer peddle.