Act 2600

[School Boy]

I am looking into getting a ACT 2600. I was wondering if anyone here had personal experience with them and how the performed.

How far have you pushed it? How much power can they hold?

Any info would be great!

 

[wdbagger]

I currently have the 2600, and I drive it daily with no problems. My butt dyno claims 350hp. This clutch is recommended for cars in the 11s. How much power are you expecting to see in the future?

 

[c2ypt1c]

I've been running a 2600 daily for about three years now. It's holding strong at 40lb/min but if I could go back, I'd get a 2900 just for the hell of it. I chose the 2600 because I was worried about the pedal pressure but I barely even notice it anymore.

 

[Lou98GSX]

I have seen 45 to 46 lb/min in dsmlink with my 2600 with no problems .

 

[School Boy]

Thanks for the input guys! I am on a 14b right now and ill be on it for a while but i would like a clutch i can grow into.

I wanted to know how far guys have pushed them.

 

[dkalfop]

This is a good question, because I have 378 wheel hp just dynoed and have a centreforce dual friction clutch with a lightened aluminum flywheel and it's 12 years old and I loved the centre force but no one uses them anymore (not sure why). I'm looking for a replacement and the act 2600 is the clutch everyone's recommending. It does handle power to about 350 to 400 wheel hp but have heard the pedal feel is crazy stiff. My recommendation would be a act twin disk clutch which has a close to stock pedal feel. It is rated for up to 700 foot pounds, wouldn't this clutch be a better choice for everyday driver? If you disagree please let me know because there must be a better clutch pedal feel then the act 2600.

 

[mcbug19]

my act went out on me although a lot of people like them i now tend to go with spec

 

[eDeclpse92]

Thanks for the input guys! I am on a 14b right now and ill be on it for a while but i would like a clutch i can grow into.

I wanted to know how far guys have pushed them.

I have a 14b on this clutch and pressure plate and it holds up great so far. I'm running 20 psi on e85. I got it for the same reason as you, you can upgrade to a bigger turbo and not have to worry too much until you get to around 400ish hp. I think that is the specifications on the ACT 2600. Correct me if I'm wrong

 

[u2slow]

I had a 2600 last for 8 years with many 11 sec passes @400hp. Your clutch pedal assembly will probably end up with some play in it. A 1g thing that must be addressed with hi-perf clutches.

 

[School Boy]

Are you guys talking about 400 at the flywheel or at the wheels?

 

[mygsx2120]

No one should be talking about HP numbers anyways. Clutches are rated based on TQ numbers

 

[kchaazz]

Dont do it, get a Southbend from TMZPERFORMANCE.com. Ive had an ACT 2600 for 12 years now, Ive replaced it once. It holds up fine, but its the other things that this clutch destroys that make it undesireable for a 1G car. The pedal assembly will die repeatedly no matter what you do to it, and the master and slave cylinders will drop like dominos as well. Not even a pedal assembly thats been rebuilt with bronze bushings and welded by Sheptrans will hold long against the 2600. As we speak, Ive got an assembly going back to them to be redone because it twisted and the pedal assembly I JUST put in a couple weeks ago instantly tweaked the second I attached the master cylinder rod to it. There is much better clutch technology availible now that doesnt utilize a gorilla pressure plate that doubles or even triples the stress on all the parts in the system. I am getting a SB clutch asap. These have a better engagement window and require less stress on the moving parts and hold well. Search all the 2600 related threads and youll find tons of failed pedal assemblies, master and slave cylinders and people who kill their synchros because the clutch doesnt fully disengage and drags, especially at high RPM.

 

[School Boy]

Dont do it, get a Southbend from TMZPERFORMANCE.com. Ive had an ACT 2600 for 12 years now, Ive replaced it once. It holds up fine, but its the other things that this clutch destroys that make it undesireable for a 1G car. The pedal assembly will die repeatedly no matter what you do to it, and the master and slave cylinders will drop like dominos as well. Not even a pedal assembly thats been rebuilt with bronze bushings and welded by Sheptrans will hold long against the 2600. As we speak, Ive got an assembly going back to them to be redone because it twisted and the pedal assembly I JUST put in a couple weeks ago instantly tweaked the second I attached the master cylinder rod to it. There is much better clutch technology availible now that doesnt utilize a gorilla pressure plate that doubles or even triples the stress on all the parts in the system. I am getting a SB clutch asap. These have a better engagement window and require less stress on the moving parts and hold well. Search all the 2600 related threads and youll find tons of failed pedal assemblies, master and slave cylinders and people who kill their synchros because the clutch doesnt fully disengage and drags, especially at high RPM.

WOW. I've never really heard of this issue before. I know a few buddies that run the 2600 and they love them. They pretty much persuaded me to go ACT over SPEC.

Why do the 2600's put so much stress on everything?

 

[Dmatthew]

I know this subject has been beaten to death but I agree with kchaazz. When I purchased my second AWD Laser it had an ACT 2600 pp and clutch that ended up sending a diaphragm finger through the bell housing. After a lot of research I ended up going with the South Bend TZ series Kevlar disc combo from TMZPERFORMANCE.com, much less abusive to drive-train, I really enjoy it, good engagement and pedal feel and unless you plan on using your car primarily for track runs I would highly recommend it. Don't forget to have your flywheel machined correctly or purchase a Chromoly NOT Aluminum flywheel.

 

[kchaazz]

With TONS of pressure required to operate the pressure plate. Put it this way, with the stock plate, it takes around 26lbs at the pedal to push the pedal down. With the 2600, it takes around 40- 50lbs. Twice the stress on parts designed for half that. My year old, OEM slaveamd master cylinders are turning my fluid black over and over again, which means the seals will die soon. I put in a rebuilt pedal assembly that had all new parts and was welded, so in theory, it should never need replacing. Not even a year later, it was twisted and developed severe play. I ordered a new assembly, and as soon as I put it in, it is already twisting and my engagement window is once again almost all the way at the damn floorboard and if I dont correct it soon(Replace the pedal assembly AGAIN so it can fail AGAIN), Ill be tearing into the transmission to put in new brass and new hub and slider assemblies for every friggin gear. Not worth it.

 

[School Boy]

Damn. That sounds like a complete nightmare. Have you guys seen these kind of problems with SPEC clutches?

 

[synthetek]

My recommendation would be a act twin disk clutch which has a close to stock pedal feel. It is rated for up to 700 foot pounds, wouldn't this clutch be a better choice for everyday driver? If you disagree please let me know because there must be a better clutch pedal feel then the act 2600.

A twin disk is not the best choice for a daily driver and its $1400 vs $400 for a regular clutch.

 

[Brandon Mau]

I've been running the 2600 with street disc for a year and a half. Was running a 8 blade holset logging 57LBS a minute and it never slipped. Never had any problems with my slave cylinder I replaced the one that was on the car when I bought it with an OEM due to the fact our cars have age and while doing research it just seemed smart to change it ahead of time. 2 months ago I went to the 6 blade and have hit 65 LBS a minute and it still held. I just inspected the disc and it's just about toast but I race legit and have beat the ever living hell out of it. As for high revving shifting I will say not the best, at 7500 RPM I have shifted pretty smooth, but coming out of the hole and having a 9K rev limit it doesn't like to shift. Just bought a twin disc installing it next month. As far as pedal pressure yes it is more firm than stock but you get used to it. Just my 2 cents it has been a great clutch, I wouldn't worry about it at your power levels but I would guess I'm close to 450-500 FT. LBS of torque just so you have an idea.

 

[eDeclpse92]

No one should be talking about HP numbers anyways. Clutches are rated based on TQ numbers

You are correct, my mistake. I misread the information on extreme-psi.com It has a 400 ftlb capacity, not hp. Thanks for the catch

 

[c2ypt1c]

65 LBS a minute and it still held.

I've also never had a problem with my master or slave cylinders while on the 2600. 3 years daily driven...

 

[kchaazz]

Ive abused the crap out of mine, and they hold up well, its just the other crap that puts me off. I wouldnt even mind replacing master and slave cylinders, but the pedal assembly is the worst thing to have to replace. Ever. Id rather do a clutch job or an engine swap or even roll around naked on broken glass than replace that damn thing again...

 

[Lou98GSX]

i have no complaints with my 2600 maybe just a stiff pedal but you get used to it .

 

[School Boy]

I've been running the 2600 with street disc for a year and a half. Was running a 8 blade holset logging 57LBS a minute and it never slipped. Never had any problems with my slave cylinder I replaced the one that was on the car when I bought it with an OEM due to the fact our cars have age and while doing research it just seemed smart to change it ahead of time. 2 months ago I went to the 6 blade and have hit 65 LBS a minute and it still held. I just inspected the disc and it's just about toast but I race legit and have beat the ever living hell out of it. As for high revving shifting I will say not the best, at 7500 RPM I have shifted pretty smooth, but coming out of the hole and having a 9K rev limit it doesn't like to shift. Just bought a twin disc installing it next month. As far as pedal pressure yes it is more firm than stock but you get used to it. Just my 2 cents it has been a great clutch, I wouldn't worry about it at your power levels but I would guess I'm close to 450-500 FT. LBS of torque just so you have an idea.

Now when you say it didn't like high RPM shifting what RPM were you shifting at? Could that be because of the street disk or would it be the same on a 6 puck or 4 puck disk?

 

[kchaazz]

Regardless of the disc, if the transmission is in good working order and high RPM shifts are a problem, its generally a release issue- the disk is dragging, not releasing from the flywheel/pp, and this causes torque from the motor to be transferred into the transmission even when your clutch pedal is pressed to the floor which causes you to either grind or be locked out of a gear when shifting. The synchro assemblies are there to slow down and align things and, when the clutch isnt releasing completely, the synchro is now trying to slow down the motor as well, which it just cant do though it will try all the way to the point that the brass and teeth are worn down and you start grinding even at low RPM when trying to shift.
When my pedal assembly is fresh, I can lift the pedal an inch off the floor and then im into the engagement window of the clutch. I can put the car in first gear when Im stopped with the pedal to the floor and rev to 7.5K and the car will not roll forward, and I can shift at 8K quickly and smoothly. Now that my assembly is twisting once again, Ive got .25" off the floor before Im into the engagement window, and if I do the test I described above, the car starts rolling forward at only 6K RPM, and Im not even going to try to shift at high RPM cause I know itll lock me out.

 

[92tsi4x4]

I personally went with the centerforce dual friction, close to the same money and summit recommended it over the ACT because that's what I went there with the intent to purchase. Not saying it's a bad one just throwing my opinion in.