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2G Absolutely no boost.

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jimsgsx

Proven Member
803
100
Oct 21, 2013
toppenish, Washington
Ok ill start by saying i have read every thread out there on this subject. My car is building 0 boost. I have a good perfect working boost gauge, did blt and not 1 leak anywhere. Wastegate works perfect, i tested it. Just put on a brand new hot side on my 16g turbo, turbo spins freely and is 100% good. New plugs gapped perfectly. New wires. Knock sensor is perfectly operational. I have no lifter tick, fuel pump and filter both new. Getting p,enty of fuel to the rail. Injectors have been prof. Cleaned and flow tested. Pretty much everything on my car works great but i am building no boost. My car might as well be a nt car right now, compression was 165-170 across all 4. I am at a loss for words on this one and need help. I have 2 perfect ecus and have swapped them for good measure. Same result. Running walbro 190 with stock fpr. Have swapped fprs and same result. I have a 3 in hks exhaust with no cat, no collapsed parts in it. I am taking the head off on monday to put new valve seals on and 3g lifters. So any advice would be appreciated. Come on dsm wisemen! Oh and timing is dead on.
 
If you have no boosts and no boost leaks, then you're either missing a major seal of some sort on your turbo or your wastegate is not closing all the way. I did a turbo swap recently and was building crap for boost, although wg was "closed" and moved appropriately with actuator. It got magically cured when I tightened up the adjustable wga arm.
 
If you have no boosts and no boost leaks, then you're either missing a major seal of some sort on your turbo or your wastegate is not closing all the way. I did a turbo swap recently and was building crap for boost, although wg was "closed" and moved appropriately with actuator. It got magically cured when I tightened up the adjustable wga arm.
Glad you mentioned that. That is actually the next thing i am going to do. How do you tighten it? And my seals are all perfect on turbo.
 
Iirc from Jusmx posts, a non adjustable actuator ( without threads) can be bent shorter sometimes or replaced with a different arm. If no arm is available the whole actuator could be replaced. Before any of that though I'd WD the pivot joint of the wga and manually open/close it a whole bunch. It's possible that a part or some exhaust manifold chips got caught partway through the wga as well, thus the manual banging. I tested my actuator spring with a bicycle pump hooked up to the vacuum line going to the actuator. Took about one pump, the pump had a gauge attached. You can even mark the excursion of the thing the wga arm attaches to on the turbo.
 
Like i said in the original posting, the wastegate works perfect. I think im gonna use something to hold the flapper closed for sure like a string or zipties or something. Then take it for a spin and see if i get diff. Results.
 
Did you try running a straight line to the wastegate? Obviously if you build just a few lbs then you know it's the MBC that is the problem. Not sure what else would cause your issue other than a bad turbo. Maybe a clogged cat but I would think you would still build a couple of lbs.
 
Are you absolutely sure your boost gauge is in 100% working order? You should be building at least abit of boost

Damaged vac line to the boost gauge ?
Is there power?
Vac line is perfect to gauge, no power literally like driving a non turbo eclipse. I am gonna rebuild turbo when i take head off on monday. I always have a turbo rebuild kit handy for whenever i might need it. Gauge works great too. I am getting 20 -21 vacuum at idle too. And cruising its about -12. So everything reading accurate.
 
If you indeed have no loss of pressure on the intake side, you have a massive pre-turbo exhaust leak, mechanical problem (turbo shaft or wastegate), or your ECU is pulling timing (such as high knock counts). In your profile you mention having a reflashed ECU. Have you logged using EvoScan? How does the log look? You should be able to check knock, timing, and AFRs.
 
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If you indeed have no loss of pressure on the intake side, you have a massive pre-turbo exhaust leak, mechanical problem (turbo shaft or wastegate), or your ECU is pulling timing (such as high knock counts). In your profile you mention having a reflashed ECU. Have you logged using EvoScan? How does the log look? You should be able to check knock, timing, and AFRs.
It turns out the turbo shaft is slightly bent for some reason. Would that cause 0 boost?
 
you know ive had several dsms where the wg arm fell right off and they still build boost, they are just laggy as hell
no matter how much knock the ecu sees theres still going to be boost, there will just be no power.
 
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