2G A/C compressor needs rebuilt.

[Kvkenamond]

I'm reinstalling my motor and need to have my A/C compressor rebuilt along with all the other components that need it. I'm just wondering if there are any good places to send them or people that still do it. My dad, (@kenamond (previous owner))said that there were people who rebuilt A/C systems as a side gig so if anybody knows of any places or people I could send my stuff to, that would be a huge help. Thanks!

 

[Dericsh]

I guess I’m considered a “new school” mechanic (started in 2007), but I’ve never heard of anyone rebuilding AC compressors. We replaced the clutch and coil when the coil failed, or the whole compressor depending on the mileage and customers preference/budget.

A quick google search found a thread on a Miata forum about a rebuild. When I added Mitsubishi to the search bar, I did see a video about a Lancer AC compressor. I didn’t watch it, if I’m being honest.

A big IF you can find the parts separately, you could probably save a little money if you don’t value your time much. I do understand that it’s a great accomplishment to fix something yourself though, and if it’s somehow an OEM unit, it’s probably a higher quality than some of the aftermarket stuff that’s out there these days.

Let us know what you end up doing. If you find a parts kit, I would love to see it!

 

[Kvkenamond]

I'm realizing now that I probably should have rephrased . I've heard that certain A/C components need to be "recoated" prior to reinstallation after they've been exposed to the atmosphere to prevent rust, corrosion, etc.

 

[Dericsh]

I'm realizing now that I probably should have rephrased . I've heard that certain A/C components need to be "recoated" prior to reinstallation after they've been exposed to the atmosphere to prevent rust, corrosion, etc.

On the inside? You vacuum the system, that’s how you remove any moisture from having it open. Then you put new oil that’s compatible with whichever Freon you’re using in the new parts you install.

 

[Kvkenamond]

Yeah! Is that something I could do myself, and if so do you have any useful videos, threads or guides you could point me towards?

 

[Dericsh]

Technically it is, but you’ll be invested in a few new tools.

First, we need to know what is wrong with the AC system and what needs to be replaced, then we could find some how-to information so you can decide if it’s a job for you or a repair shop.

My recommendation would be to replace the parts on your own, then bring it to a shop for the evacuate and recharge portion of the repair.

Again, unless you’ll be doing this multiple times, it’ll be cheaper to have a shop do that once than to invest in the equipment.

 

[Kvkenamond]

So there's actually nothing wrong with it so all it needs it to be evacuated and coated so I guess a shop is the way to go. Thanks! You've been a huge help.

So if there is nothing wrong with my compressor, Is there anything that I need to have done with the compressor out of the motor or can it be done with everything installed? Because with the 2gs, you can't install or uninstall the compressor without pulling the motor.

 

[Dericsh]

So if there is nothing wrong with my compressor, Is there anything that I need to have done with the compressor out of the motor or can it be done with everything installed? Because with the 2gs, you can't install or uninstall the compressor without pulling the motor.

No just reinstall everything and go to any trusted repair shop and tell them you had to take the AC apart for an engine replacement and you need an “evac and recharge”.

 

[GsxAwd2300]

Can you take a picture of where the connector for the compressor leads to I cannot find my plug it may be cut out of the car

 

[DreamChaser7]

No just reinstall everything and go to any trusted repair shop and tell them you had to take the AC apart for an engine replacement and you need an “evac and recharge”.

So I can’t remember like in my situation I’ll be replacing everything I can with new, but what about the old vs new coolant types? Is there anything that needs to be different/modified or can I just put new 1g OEM parts together and they charge it with new type coolant? Basically are old OEM parts compatible with new coolant? Any provisions need to be thought of when rebuilding?

 

[Dericsh]

So I can’t remember like in my situation I’ll be replacing everything I can with new, but what about the old vs new coolant types? Is there anything that needs to be different/modified or can I just put new 1g OEM parts together and they charge it with new type coolant? Basically are old OEM parts compatible with new coolant? Any provisions need to be thought of when rebuilding?

So, as far as the component compatibility, it’s all the same. There’s some old threads on here that I was all into a couple weeks ago. A vast majority of them are people that can’t seem to find one of the fittings (it’s on the actual compressor itself).

If your a/c was never converted before and you’re changing refrigerants from R12 to R134A, you will need the adapter fittings.

You also want to match the oil in the system to the type of refrigerant that you’ll be using. It’s great that you’ll have many new components because you won’t worry about mixing oil as much or spending a lot of time flushing oil out. I did read that they make some universal/backwards compatible type oils as well. Note that some new compressors will come loaded with enough oil for the complete system, so some may need to be drained to compensate for previously installed components. They usually have a tag on them warning about that.

Here’s a quick google link for different oil types.

Understanding the Differences Between A/C Compressor Oils – FJC

fjcinc.com

There’s also a conversion for the refrigerant fill rate, it’s different between the two types. You’ll need about 25% less R134a than R12.

 

[DreamChaser7]

So, as far as the component compatibility, it’s all the same. There’s some old threads on here that I was all into a couple weeks ago. A vast majority of them are people that can’t seem to find one of the fittings (it’s on the actual compressor itself).

If your a/c was never converted before and you’re changing refrigerants from R12 to R134A, you will need the adapter fittings.

You also want to match the oil in the system to the type of refrigerant that you’ll be using. It’s great that you’ll have many new components because you won’t worry about mixing oil as much or spending a lot of time flushing oil out. I did read that they make some universal/backwards compatible type oils as well. Note that some new compressors will come loaded with enough oil for the complete system, so some may need to be drained to compensate for previously installed components. They usually have a tag on them warning about that.

Here’s a quick google link for different oil types.

Understanding the Differences Between A/C Compressor Oils – FJC

fjcinc.com

There’s also a conversion for the refrigerant fill rate, it’s different between the two types. You’ll need about 25% less R134a than R12.

Well anything new I can find. AC never worked when I got it doubt it was converted yet back then. Thanks for the info.

 

[Dericsh]

Well anything new I can find. AC never worked when I got it doubt it was converted yet back then. Thanks for the info.

It’ll be easy to tell, if the fittings for the gauges are threaded on the outside, that’s the old R12 style. The R134a adapters are screwed onto those and have a quick connect style connection for the gauges.

 

[DreamChaser7]

It’ll be easy to tell, if the fittings for the gauges are threaded on the outside, that’s the old R12 style. The R134a adapters are screwed onto those and have a quick connect style connection for the gauges.

Ah good to know. It’s been so long since that stuff was removed, now where is that stuff? Lol.
Honestly haven’t even looked into the AC stuff much as it’s a ways off. Like how many adapter fittings and where? I assume we can’t get new OEM stuff for components anymore?

 

[Dericsh]

Ah good to know. It’s been so long since that stuff was removed, now where is that stuff? Lol.
Honestly haven’t even looked into the AC stuff much as it’s a ways off. Like how many adapter fittings and where? I assume we can’t get new OEM stuff for components anymore?

Oh, it’s just two. High and low pressure sides. One of them is on the compressor, which maybe will be easy to find in your pile? Lol.

I haven’t looked into any availability either, I assume your assumption is right .

 

[DreamChaser7]

Oh, it’s just two. High and low pressure sides. One of them is on the compressor, which maybe will be easy to find in your pile? Lol.

I haven’t looked into any availability either, I assume your assumption is right .

Dude I have no idea, there’s crap on shelves in garage, upstairs, in the attic, gotta go through it all soon and get organized. And right now it feels like 120 in the garage so..
A quick search didn’t show any, maybe just have to go with auto parts store brand stuff if I want new huh?

 

[Dericsh]

Dude I have no idea, there’s crap on shelves in garage, upstairs, in the attic, gotta go through it all soon and get organized. And right now it feels like 120 in the garage so..
A quick search didn’t show any, maybe just have to go with auto parts store brand stuff if I want new huh?

Yeah, I’m seeing Denso and GPD (says Nippon- is that still a good brand?) branded compressors for pretty decent prices.

Because with the 2gs, you can't install or uninstall the compressor without pulling the motor.

That can’t be true, can it?

 

[DreamChaser7]

Yeah, I’m seeing Denso and GPD (says Nippon- is that still a good brand?) branded compressors for pretty decent prices.

I wouldn’t know . Whatever is best is what I want

 

[DogWhistle]

Because with the 2gs, you can't install or uninstall the compressor without pulling the motor.

That can’t be true, can it?

It is not true. Just replaced ours last fall. On a 2G you have to unbolt the brake master cylinder and move it aside. Ours is Auto, so no Clutch cylinder to move, but we do have an AFPR which we moved aside.

Unplug the compressor electrical wires. Then, the AC lines have to be disconnected to get to the four mounting bolts on the rear side of the compressor. They take forever to come out because of fine threading, but once those are out, the compressor can be lifted out of the channel between the ignition coils and the hard brake lines.