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98 awd spyder build

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Last Friday I picked up a rust free black 98 awd swapped spyder with 65k on the body. It currently has:

Engine:
2.3 stroker with 5,000 miles
6 bolt
Wiseco forged pistons (6571m86)
Crower H Beam rods
ACL Race bearings
OEM 2.4 crank
ARP head studs
Balance shaft delete (oem stubby)
Oil port mod
Blue gates timing belt
OEM head with 5,000 miles
Custom hydrocoated valve cover ($100 dollar bills)

Upgrades:
TurboLab 20g turbo, ported
FP manifold
Dejon intake
Apexi downpipe
Apexi n1 (no cat)
Greddy BOV
VRSF FMIC
Black box reflashable ecu tuned with ecuflsh/evosccan/ceddymods
ACT flywheel
6 puck unsprung clutch
awd Trans/T-Case/Rear Diff
Walbro 255
Innovate MTX-L wideband
Prosport mech boost gauge
2 pod A-pillar
New 2gb headlights
HID ballasts/bulbs


Plans: (I already have all the parts I am about to list and am currently swapping them over)

-e85
-Swap over wheels, thermal r&d turbo-back, link v3, non cruise cable, megan racing short throw, black valve cover, stock tail lights, and suspension from my gsx
-Put in my mhi 20g that was just rebuilt by Justin
-bm 1650's
-speed density
-oil pressure gauge
-stm rewire kit
-afpr
-Punishment Racing o2 dump w/ mvs wg
-comp fp2 272 cams
-3g lifters
-oem timing belt
-aluminum radiator w/ slim fans
-fuel lab fuel filter
-delete a/c
-delete cruise control

I already dropped in the revised lifters, 272 cams, and replaced the timing belt. Also I am half way done swapping suspension. Pulled the 20g that was on the car and am currently porting the flapper hole on the 20g that I am going to be putting in. Plasti dipped the gsx wheels and will be putting them on shortly.

Here are some pictures (sorry for the terrible quality).


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I will update with some better quality pictures in the next couple days!
 
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gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Nice build, where did you get that valve cover design done? I love it!

It came with the car. He said it was hydrodipped, not sure where he got it done. Pretty interesting process though, here is a video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iUCpAELhl8]Hydro Dipping Motorcycle Gas Tank - YouTube[/ame] . I actually put it up for sale on a local forum, pm me if your interested.
 

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Thanks guys, it should be a fun daily driver after she's finished. I was just about to drop in a fresh 6 bolt/2g head in my gsx before I came across this on a local forum. I have always wanted a awd spyder so I couldn't resist. The fact that it was rust free was what really sold me. I am swapping over all the parts I was going to put in my gsx into the spyder so the whole build is very convenient.

Last night after work my buddy Mark came over and helped me swap the front suspension in both cars. Also I pulled the 20g, ported the flapper hole, plasti dipped front wheels, and assembled the new 20g.

Tonight I am going to finish swapping suspension, assemble wastegate setup, plasti dip rear wheels, and swap exhaust. I will post up some pics tonight.
 

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Update

Just finished putting her together. This is what she looked like when I picked her up last Friday:
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Now:
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New mhi 20g
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Put in my thermal r&d turbo-back
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It is having trouble holding boost when I blt it. The compressor is pushing 28 psi on the turbo inlet and when I blt it the boost gauge only reads 2 psi. I spent 3 hours fixing small boost leaks but nothing major and the boost gauge still reads 2psi. It's at 30* past tdc. For some reason a ton of air is exiting the exhaust during the test. After doing some reading I am going to go check the pcv, egr, and leak down test it after I get off work. Anyone else experience this problem?
 
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gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
<3 premium, however nordeast is easily my favorite grainbelt.

Just got home and checked to see if the egr is still on, good news. The previous owner had deleted the lines and kept the the egr on the car and tried to block it off! The egr valve was stuck open, creating a massive boost leak. I am going to get a block off plate made in the next couple days and put it on. Hopefully she will hold more than 2lbs!
 

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Thanks man :thumb:. It should be a really fun dd though when i'm finished.

Took some pics this morning before work. Sorry, I do not own a camera so I was forced to take pics with my cell phone.

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Fp intake

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This will be my speed density setup. I am going to be using the maf at first since I am new to tuning e85 and tuning in general.

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The reason why the car wouldn't hold boost (hopefully, I will find out tonight).

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My 90* boost leak tester :)

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Good news, the egr was the issue. I installed the block off plate and was able to build 12lbs during a blt before the cap on my boost leak tester flew off. I think I have the line for the external wg setup wrong because I have to cover the top nipple in order to build boost. I will be fixing that and some small boost leaks after work, and hopefully starting the car for the first time tonight! I just put 13 gallons of e85 in last night :)
 
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gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Fixed all the boost leaks and now she holds 25 psi no prob! She is ready to go and will be starting her tonight after I get home from work. I am going to have my buddy come over and take some good quality pics of the new setup.
 

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Update:

Well I drove the car for a couple weeks and for the most part she ran pretty good. It leaks oil from where the dipstick tube sits in the block, oil return, and oil filter housing. Also, I was experiencing knock when ever going wot. Before I had time to look into it, the clutch went out (that's what I think anyway). I was leaving my house in 2nd gear then all of the sudden my car just revved and wouldn't accelerate. Also, when the car is off and in gear the wheels don't lock and it starts to roll so I have to pull the e-brake.

I got the car towed to my buddy's garage and started taking her apart. We both work until 8 so I haven't had much time to work on it. Axles were just rebuilt and were fully seated in the trans. Drained gear oil and t-case fluid and everything looked good. Axles, t-case are out so all I have to do is remove the mounts and drop the tranny. I will know for sure tonight what went wrong and what I need to buy in order to get her running again.

I am going to be going with a street disc and if the pp needs to be replaced I am going to go with a 2900. I am hoping the the trans and flywheel are in good shape. While I am waiting for parts to arrive I will be installing the full ss clutch line, black top cas (hopefully fixes the knock issue), dual gauge bezel and removing a pillar, oil pressure gauge in cigarette lighter location, rewire fuel pump, and switching to speed density. Also I just picked up a shaved vc that was powder coated black :)

Here are a few pics of the process:

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I will post some more pics up tomorrow of what I find when removing the trans. After I get her running I will be installing a 1g aluminum radiator with slim fans, delete a/c, and delete cruise control box and install non cruise cable.

The center of the disc separated from the rest of it. Here are some pics of what i found when I removed the tranny:

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Does anyone know what pressure plate this is? It doesn't have and numbers on it or anything. I believe it is a XTD 2600:

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There is a lot of build up inside then bell housing. I was just going to power wash it and remove as much as I can:

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Input shaft looks good, no damage from what I can see:

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Flywheel looks great as well. I am going to get it resurfaced just to be safe. I am going to buy a 2900 pp and street disc tonight.
 

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Yesterday I ordered:
-act 2900 pp
-street disc
-tranny, t-case, rear diff fluid
-new dipstick & o-ring
-tranny to block dowel pins (was missing one)
-oem oil return
-black top cas w/ 6 bolt swap harness (hoping it fixes knock issue)

Everything should be here by Thursday. Saturday I am going to get my flywheel resurfaced and bung welded in the tb elbow for a iat so I can switch to speed density. Going to replace fuel filter and change oil as well. It's going to be a busy weekend! I will post up some pics of the new parts & progress this weekend.
 

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Thanks, I am following yours as well!

Last night I installed the black top cas, 6 bolt swap harness, and relocated my gauges. I really like the sleeper look of the dual gauge instrument cluster bezel rather than the gauge pillar. I have a prosport blackout boost gauge, black innovate wideband, and a black oil pressure gauge so they are hidden pretty well :hellyeah:. Tonight I will be putting in my autometer oil pressure gauge in the cigarette lighter location and installing the full ss clutch line. If I have time I will start to rewire my fuel pump as well. It sucks working until 8 everyday in the week.

I will take some pics of everything tonight and post them up!
 

gsexxx

Proven Member
166
0
May 4, 2012
Minneapolis, Minnesota
UPDATE:

Last night I got the car all back together and ran into some issues. Firstly, whenever I turn the key the left turn signal always flashes no matter what. The right turn signal doesn't come on, however both flash when I turn the hazards on. Also, when I attempt to start the car it doesn't even attempt to turn over. While the tranny was out I installed a black top cas and 6 bolt swap harness and I am wondering if that is hooked up wrong causing the car not to start.

I work until 1 today and during that time I am going to look up all the possible fixes for the issues I am having since I am on a computer all day. Today I start school as well, and fortunately for me the first part of the program is electrical 1 so perhaps I can get some advice from my instructors.

Other than that, the clutch pedal feels nice and firm and everything else looks good. I installed a full ss clutch line while I was in there. Also I relocated my boost & wb gauge from the a pillar to in the dash and will be installing my autometer oil pressure gauge in the cigarette lighter spot in the nest couple days. While the car was down I had my hood repainted gloss black and it looks awesome! Just want to be able to drive it.... Here a few pics I have on my phone and will get some better quality ones up shortly.

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New oem TOB:

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Aftermath of using 3 cans of brake cleaner to the bell hosuing:

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After doing some research I am almost positive that the end of my cas harness is plugged into the a/c connector and not the crank connector which would cause the car not to crank at all. Apparently both plugs are the same shape and look identical so I am hoping that's the problem.
 
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TSicktalon

Proven Member
329
0
Sep 8, 2008
Eastern, North_Carolina
Yeah, the coil pack plug is identical as well. The Crank plug 'should' have a thicker black and red wire going in to it vs the AC plug being all crazy colors.
 
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