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Street Build '97 Eclipse AWD GS-T (2006 to Present)

Year
1997
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
Peel that heat tab of the freeze plug on the end of your head. When it falls off and goes through the timing belt it'll really suck.
Good eye, Kurt. I had never noticed that before. I'll be sure to pull it the next time I have the middle timing belt cover off and have access to it.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,058
2,306
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Peel that heat tab of the freeze plug on the end of your head. When it falls off and goes through the timing belt it'll really suck.
I dont see what your referring to, any pic help for the blind LOL
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,058
2,306
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
06MAR2018 - Using "The Punisher" to Press ARP Extended Studs into New OEM Wheel Bearings
My wheel bearings on the FR, RR,RL were as old as the car, I replaced the FL wheel bearing and did the ARP extended stud install on it back in Nov. 2014 so it was time to get the other corners too. When I did the FL wheel studs I used the 25 washer method and an impact to pull it through the wheel bearing. Doing it like this worked but definitely isn't ideal and, just my luck, my best friend from work built his own hydraulic press that he calls "The Punisher" which is fitting considering it's a 25 ton press. When he first built it we took an old bowling ball and it busted it clean in half... LOL

The press made quick work of pressing in the wheel studs, took less than 5 minutes, I wish installing them on the car were that easy.

View attachment 553950
Let me know if the AWD versions with arps also hit the rear shoe spring when cornering please.
I just fixed this issue as i swapped my arps into the housing instead of the spacer and they kept hitting the spring when the shoe slid over,

Might just be a me problem but im not sure since the heads on all arp wheel studs for our part number are the same, interesting to see what yours does
 

arrowhead

Proven Member
915
58
Apr 19, 2011
miami, Florida
Surprise that you did not research the use of copper lines for your brake system, it is a no no.
They are not approved by DOT, and it is a safety hazard, burst pressure is a lot less than steel lines and the flares will fail, I know that it has been done many times, but still does not make it right.
Is a lot of work, but I would advise you to do them again, you have put a lot of effort in your build, to see it down the drain because of simple mistake.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,058
2,306
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Surprise that you did not research the use of copper lines for your brake system, it is a no no.
They are not approved by DOT, and it is a safety hazard, burst pressure is a lot less than steel lines and the flares will fail, I know that it has been done many times, but still does not make it right.
Is a lot of work, but I would advise you to do them again, you have put a lot of effort in your build, to see it down the drain because of simple mistake.
Im usingnit, have done on many cars for years and garages continue to use it,

It is dot approved on the correct stuff. And its its s close to being as strong. See here https://oppositelock.kinja.com/the-truth-about-copper-brake-lines-1818499200
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
Surprise that you did not research the use of copper lines for your brake system, it is a no no.
They are not approved by DOT, and it is a safety hazard, burst pressure is a lot less than steel lines and the flares will fail, I know that it has been done many times, but still does not make it right.
Is a lot of work, but I would advise you to do them again, you have put a lot of effort in your build, to see it down the drain because of simple mistake.
I appreciate the feedback and concern, arrowhead but I believe you're confusing true copper hardline with the stuff I actually used, which is NiCopp hardline. I did quiet a bit of research on the subject which is why I decided to run hardline to the staging brake and not just simply adding 10' of flexible SS line and calling it a day.

This is from AGS, the company I ordered the hardline from in the link I provided in my initial post...
American Grease Stick said:
3/16″ x 25′ Nickel/Copper/Iron Alloy Tubing – When combined with tube nuts and flaring tool, coils are an economical solution for shops that want to build their own lines, custom lengths or non-standard applications. Use to fabricate 3/16″ Domestic, European, Japanese, British, and adapter brake lines. NiCopp is a nickel-copper alloy brake tubing that meets SAE Standard J1047 and ISO 4038; meeting all international and U.S. requirements for brake tubing. This alloy is approximately 9.2% nickel, 1.4% iron, 0.8% manganese, and 88.6% copper. Under the UNS system, this alloy is designated as UNS C70600. NiCopp therefore has the strength and structural integrity of steel lines but with the added benefit of being much more corrosion resistant. NiCopp is also easier to bend and form than steel tubing. Nickel-copper, commonly referred to as ’90-10 copper’, has been used on several European vehicle brake systems since the 1970’s, including: Volvo, Audi, Porsche, and Aston Martin. NiCopp has been used on hydraulic/fluid transfer systems on vehicles where steel lines and tubing are commonly used. This includes brake, fuel and transmission systems. NiCopp is considered the super-premium brand in brake lines and should be considered where the underbody of the vehicle is subjected to the harshest environments, where the longest life-span for lines is required, and/or where direct OEM replacement is desired. – NiCopp Does Not Rust or Corrode – DOT Approved for Hydraulic Brake Systems – Bends 58% Easier than Steel Tubing – Available in Coils of 25′, 50′, and 100′ – Finished Lines Available for Domestic & Import – Black Oxide Fittings 2X Corrosion Resistance. NiCopp lines and tubing meet the following specifications: SAEJ1047, ISO 4038, SAEJ1650, DIN 74234, BS2871
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
20MAR2018 - @Archer Fabrications Installed V-Band's On Exhaust & DEI Exhaust Wrap
Years ago, 2008 I believe it was, when I first had my exhaust modified by RRE to do resonator delete on the HKS catback exhaust as well as build a race pipe which they used a steel pipe and some BBQ black to keep it from corroding on the outside. The inside of the pipe was corroded pretty bad and my gaskets were trash too so keeping with the theme of improving the car while it remains down until Fall I decided to update the exhaust a bit. I wanted something that was easily interchangeable so I could quickly drop it and swap on a side exit if I wanted to for the track and I also wanted to move my WB sensor forward of the flex section in the downpipe where as before it was in the cat delete race pipe. Fortunately for me Kyle of @Archer Fabrications moved out to Phoenix a few years ago so I contacted him for help, telling him what I had in mind and he gave me a few options and part recommendations.

Here's the list of everything I ended up purchasing for the exhaust changes...

I took my Punishment Racing O2 housing, Apexi GT downpipe, steel RRE cat delete pipe, and HKS hi power exhaust along with my Ace Race v-bands, rally cat, and bung up to Kyle to modify without my car. He sent me photos throughout the process which was great and it only took a week and when I got to his place he was just finishing up the WB O2 sensor bung.

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After I got back home I hung the exhaust on the car to make sure everything fit properly and somehow Kyle did it without the car, it fit exactly as the old exhaust setup with the 2 bolt flanges. I was impressed with the quality of the fab work and how well he maintained fitment.

20180320_160233.jpg


After verifying fitment I dropped the downpipe to shoot it with a few coats of Rustoleum BBQ black paint, then wrap it with the roll of DEI Titanium exhaust wrap to help with engine bay temps, oil temps (since the dp routes directly under the oil pan), and to keep from burning my foot on the floorboard after a long drive. LOL

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Once my car's drivable I'll be taking it up to Kyle's garage so he can fabricate the side exit, should shave 20lbs for the track and reduce back pressure on the turbo to boot!
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
28MAR2018 - Installing Rear Wheel Bearings with ARP Studs & Modifying OE Lug Nuts
Since the exhaust was back on the car I was wanting to drop it off of jack stands but needed to get the rear wheel bearings installed before I did it. I had never messed with ebrake shoes before so I took a few photos of what they looked like prior to pulling anything apart, that way I could get everything back together. Also, after installing the new wheel bearings with the ARP extended studs I needed to modify the OE Evo lug nuts to make them open ended so they would thread all the say down the ARP's.

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Let me know if the AWD versions with arps also hit the rear shoe spring when cornering please.
I just fixed this issue as i swapped my arps into the housing instead of the spacer and they kept hitting the spring when the shoe slid over,

Might just be a me problem but im not sure since the heads on all arp wheel studs for our part number are the same, interesting to see what yours does
@ec17pse, I did notice that the backside of the ARP lugs were hitting this piece (only on the BL wheel) as the wheel rotated so I had to shim it so the spring didn't stick out so far by placing a washer on the back of the metal plate that holds it in.

20180319_155651.jpg


 

arrowhead

Proven Member
915
58
Apr 19, 2011
miami, Florida
On your brake line post, I read the first part and since you refer to it as copper hardline and not as NiCopp.
So when I read it it sent an alarm, even if I was surprised because I know that you do a lot of research on things you use.
I have seen a lot of garages use the copper hardline, the regular one, which is a big mistake.
I have done quite a few of steel hard lines and I really not find it difficult.
Even with all the advantages of the NiCopp, especially on a race car, where you may run over or be hit by debris on the track,I personally prefer the steel lines and I have even covered them with rubber hose for extra protection, as some tracks like Sebring are very abrasive.
Anyways, keep up the good work and I love your attention to details.

Mandy
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,058
2,306
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
28MAR2018 - Installing Rear Wheel Bearings with ARP Studs & Modifying OE Lug Nuts
Since the exhaust was back on the car I was wanting to drop it off of jack stands but needed to get the rear wheel bearings installed before I did it. I had never messed with ebrake shoes before so I took a few photos of what they looked like prior to pulling anything apart, that way I could get everything back together. Also, after installing the new wheel bearings with the ARP extended studs I needed to modify the OE Evo lug nuts to make them open ended so they would thread all the say down the ARP's.

View attachment 554217
View attachment 554220
View attachment 554218
View attachment 554219


@ec17pse, I did notice that the backside of the ARP lugs were hitting this piece (only on the BL wheel) as the wheel rotated so I had to shim it so the spring didn't stick out so far by placing a washer on the back of the metal plate that holds it in.

View attachment 554221
Interesting yours hit that spring seat/hat thing. For me that was far away, my upper shoe spring was the one being hit when the shoe slid over when cornering. I have a how to fix thread up where i spaced the bearing out and caliper to fix it and it worked well,

Lease i know its not just mine having the issue
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
On your brake line post, I read the first part and since you refer to it as copper hardline and not as NiCopp.
So when I read it it sent an alarm, even if I was surprised because I know that you do a lot of research on things you use.
I have seen a lot of garages use the copper hardline, the regular one, which is a big mistake.
I have done quite a few of steel hard lines and I really not find it difficult.
Even with all the advantages of the NiCopp, especially on a race car, where you may run over or be hit by debris on the track,I personally prefer the steel lines and I have even covered them with rubber hose for extra protection, as some tracks like Sebring are very abrasive.
Anyways, keep up the good work and I love your attention to details.

Mandy
Thanks for the compliments and you're right, after re-reading my brake line entry I did mention installing copper lines and not specifically referring to them as NiCopp. Sorry for the confusion and thanks again for the concern, I'm going to edit that post so it doesn't just refer to them as copper.

Interesting yours hit that spring seat/hat thing. For me that was far away, my upper shoe spring was the one being hit when the shoe slid over when cornering. I have a how to fix thread up where i spaced the bearing out and caliper to fix it and it worked well,

Lease i know its not just mine having the issue
I'm definitely no drum brake expert, like I said I had to take photos to get it all back together and looking the same, but I wonder if there's more to your problem then just a clearance issue. Like a spring thats lost tension and allows the shoe to move excessively when you're cornering? Either way, that's crazy that you figured out what was causing it and I cant imagine the sound that made. :aha:
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,058
2,306
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Thanks for the compliments and you're right, after re-reading my brake line entry I did mention installing copper lines and not specifically referring to them as NiCopp. Sorry for the confusion and thanks again for the concern, I'm going to edit that post so it doesn't just refer to them as copper.


I'm definitely no drum brake expert, like I said I had to take photos to get it all back together and looking the same, but I wonder if there's more to your problem then just a clearance issue. Like a spring thats lost tension and allows the shoe to move excessively when you're cornering? Either way, that's crazy that you figured out what was causing it and I cant imagine the sound that made. :aha:
The spring, was the same OD, but the tension was a bit stiffer on the new ones but i opted to go back to the older oem ones and it still did it.

I took this apart twice and played with everything and it still lost me then i saw the shoe slip and once that did that the spring was touching.

Link in here for the video and my fix http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fw...ded-wheel-studs-possibly-awd-bearings.519910/

It was annoying as hell, i could not leave it like it as who knows what would happen, if it wesrs it doen or knocks it off and jams the bearing. So measures where taken to fix it once and for all!
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
03APR2018 - Finishing Wheel Bearing/ARP Stud Install & @99gst_racer (VMC) Front LCA's
Paul told me his front LCA's would make my 2g quarter mile faster so I gave him my money because I want to go fast. LOL That, and I still needed to put the front passenger side wheel bearing on so it gave me a reason to install the amazing looking LCA's Paul builds us. Since I was finished with the suspension work I was able to install the wheels and drop it down off the jack stands.

20180402_171829.jpg

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20180410_160930.jpg
20180403_161147.jpg
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
22APR2018 - Switching From OEM TD05 Turbo Drain to -10AN
After installing my turbo setup to install the heat reflective tape on the water pipe I couldn't get my 10yr old OEM TD05 oil drain to align back up with the oil pan/CHRA. I jumped on ExtremePSI to order a new one and was shocked that the price of these was over $80 and I couldn't find it cheaper anywhere else. I decided to pursue other options and found that ExtremePSI had a -10AN Oil Return Line kit that you can build for any turbo setup for cheaper, so I jumped on it. If anyone's interested...
Building it took some measuring/cutting but in the end I think going with the -10AN return line was the better option because it allows for more adjustment and it saves some cash, which I'll never complain about. Now just get back to me in 10yrs and see if this one lasts just as long as the OEM drain. :)

20180422_123708.jpg

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20180422_140731.jpg

20180422_145334.jpg
 

19gsx91

Proven Member
1,201
293
Apr 20, 2011
Walworth, New_York
Looks good, for future reference Corey, you can use a 2g return line which is still 19.95 and just elongate the holes on them to match, they still fit the drain pan side of things without an issue.
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
23APR2018 - Mounting 6 Circuit Fuse Block
Since I picked up those AEM pressure gauges (fuel and oil) I needed to find a better way of power distribution because with just two (WB and boost) it was looking a little "bird nesty" under the dash and I didn't want to make it even worse. After doing a bit of reading/research I found that a simple solution was to install a fuse block circuit which only requires a single main 12v switched to the (+) terminal bus and a single main solid chassis ground to the (-) terminal bus and then wire the gauges to the fused terminals. I decided to pick up a Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Ckts w/ Negative Bus and Cover for what I needed to install, I just needed to decide where I wanted to mount it. I had gotten rid of my SRS air bag system when I went to a Evo steering wheel so I decided the best place for the fuse block would be where the SRS ECU sits under the arm rest. I just needed to test fit it to make sure that after installing it there, I could still put the center console on without any issues of it clearing or pinching wires etc. I just placed it under there was plenty of clearance to the bottom of the center console as well as the sides of it, so I found the perfect spot to mount it.

20180417_152230.jpg



After a quick trip to the hardware store I grabbed the following hardware to mount it...
(4) M4x0.7 20mm button socket head screws
(4) M4 lock washers
(2) M4 2mm spacers
Then simply placed it on the center of the SRS ECU bracket, marked/drilled the holes, and tapped them for M4x0.7 screws and bolted it down. I used the spacers on the front of the fuse block since the bracket isn't perfectly flat.

20180423_154719.jpg


20180423_120942.jpg


20180423_155830.jpg


Now that it's mounted I can start chasing wires and fixing that birds nest!
 

iugrad92turbo

Supporting Member
12,560
629
May 22, 2007
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Hey man its coming along lots of things going on with the build thanks for updating im in the process of my build again, using volk parts too. I need to update my thread.
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
01MAY2018 - Changing the Water Pump Pulley/ Alternator Belt Configuration
I'm an avid believer that Facebook, or any social media page for that matter, is a poor resource for any technical information which is why I stick to posting on Tuners but maybe I'm biased or just old. Either way, Facebook came through in this instance and I'm glad for it. Someone asked a question on Eat Sleep DSM about how to run their belt for the water pump if they've relocated their alternator and deleted their power steering. This was something that I had just done so I posted a photo of my setup, telling them to run a belt from the smaller (inner) water pump pulley to the crank and back to the relocated alternator and gave them the belt part number. Fortunately for me Justin @Detective Coating noticed my photo and brought it to my attention that he was running his this way and having problems with his cooling system (maybe he can comment if he sees this entry), mentioning a theory of his that the pulley ratio was causing problems. This is the photo I posted which he brought to my attention his problems doing it this way.

20180430_104837.jpg



After doing a bit more research, this is what I came up with which confirms Justin's theory of the pulley ratio very well could have been causing the problems he was seeing. The outer track on the OE crank pulley and outer (larger) WP pulley rotate at a 1.07:1 ratio, meaning when the crank is rotating at 8000rpm the WP is spinning at 8560rpm. If you run a belt on the inside track of the crank pulley to the small water pump pulley when you delete your PS and relocate the alternator the crank/WP pulley ratio goes to 1.76:1. So, when the crank is wrapped out to 8000rpm the WP is spinning at 14080rpm. Yikes! Definitely a recipe for blowing up a water pump if you track your car.

The best option from what I've found (ECMLink : Anybody put an alternator relocation on a 2g WITHOUT power steering?) is to run the single belt from the inside track on the crank pulley directly to the alternator that comes with the Jay Racing kit --- Dayco 5040335. Then install both the small/large pulley on the water pump, same as the stock pulley setup (the small inside pulley won't be used) and wrap a belt from the large outside water pump pulley to the outer belt track on the crank pulley. This belt won't have a tensioner so it needs to be a tight fit. If you have a stock crank pulley you'll want Dayco belt 5040320. If you have a Fluidampr crank damper the outer track is larger (over driven) so you'll need Dayco belt 5040325. To install them I found it easier to just loosen the crank pulley and wrap the belt around it, then put it back in place on the crank, instead of trying to walk the belt on. Don't forget to torque the (4) bolts back down to 18ft/lbs. I bought both belts and installed them both on my 2g with the stock 2g OE crank pulley and Fluidampr damper too and belt tension was good with both.

20180430_185639.jpg
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
12MAY2018 - New Steering Wheel & Quick Release Hub
After installing my Sparco Evo racing seat getting in and out of the car was a problem with the stock 350mm Evo steering wheel. When I'd try to get out I'd hit my legs on the bottom of it so each time I had to adjust the tilt wheel to the highest setting or else I was trapped. Not ideal, so I decided I'd pick up a QD and a aftermarket wheel sticking with the 350mm diameter so steering wouldn't be even harder with a smaller wheel and no PS.
20180512_084546.jpg
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
14MAY2018 - Shift Light Install
People get a lot of shit for having shift lights and, I'm not going to lie, I think they look dumb as hell mounted with self taping screws on the top of the dash or the big ass mag light on the side of a tach. The do serve a function though, which is not having to stare at your tach and allow you to just react to the light when you're shifting going down the track. I wanted to stay as far away from the obvious rice burner shift light mounted to the dash as possible and I wanted it mounted in a spot the didn't blind me shifting out of first. I found a place I wanted it so I scoured the internet for the exact size of shift light I was looking for, one with a diameter of 3/4". Of course if you look hard enough, you can find whatever you want on the internet and I found a company called Raptor Performance that made a shift light that was exactly 3/4" diameter and only 3" long. It even had red LED's to boot!
So I pulled out my Dremel and got to modifying my HVAC controls that I no longer use since I pulled the entire HVAC system out of my car years ago.

Anyone see a shift light in there? :sneaky:

20180514_202746.jpg


Just pop off the A/C switch cover...

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gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
15MAY2018 - Custom Diamond Star Momo Horn Button
I didn't mind the horn button that came with the Momo wheel however, thought it was be a cool touch to get one made to my liking that I designed. I threw something up into photoshop and contacted Adam at TheRevLimiterStore.com to cook one up for me. He did a great job, customer service was great, and I recommend looking through his store to see if you could use anything. It's mostly Miata stuff be he also does custom work and is familiar with the DSM community.

Here's the example I sent to him and a photo of what he created after I installed it in the Momo steering wheel.

MOMO-horn.jpg


20180515_164635.jpg
 

gofer

Moderator
8,076
1,176
Feb 18, 2006
South Gilbert, Arizona
10JUL2018 - Honda S2K Starter Button
The starter button that @[email protected] installed while my car was on the dyno and the key switch stopped working wasn't exactly the nicest looking, just something to get by so we could continue tuning it and this was 2010. So, eight years later I decided to do something about the starter button he installed and get something a bit classier looking and I'd always liked the S2000 button that came OEM. Found one on eBay with a harness pigtail for a reasonable price so I picked it up and mounted it in the HVAC gauge cluster.

20180710_144534.jpg
 
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