90 tsi tuning issues, won't rev.

[Olddirtyadams]

EDIT: car is a gst, not a tsi. I apologize.


New guy here,



Bought car this week, so I'm not the one who molested it, save your flaming.

1990 eclipse gst 5spd
Bigger (450?) afc injectors
16g turbo
Front mount
Open dump bov
2g maf?
Apexi super afc 5 knob v1
Electronic valve controller? (May be a boost controller)
Ebay fpr.
Unknown if larger fuel pump.

I'm having serious issues revving past 3k in any gear whether stationary or driving. Can't get the car above 45 mph.The issue started yesterday, me and a friend where replacing some wiring for my coolant temp sensor (car idles rough then dies until warm unless you apply throttle), when finished, we tried messing with the idle and the afc to see if we could get it to start smoother. After that I took the car out, made two pulls up to 45, then car started to bog down, sputter, around 3k rpm. I know it's a tuning/electronics issue, when I bought the car I had it on the highway doing 20psi pulls at 75-85 mph, drove the car 35 miles highway and city and only had this issue in first gear, after that car drove normal. I'm getting fuel I know that, 40 psi at wot, my afr is 11-12:1ish at wot cars idle afr is 10.0. I also can't imagine I have a boost leak considering I was building 20psi a day ago. I did have to take my intake off and disconnect the maf while rewriting but both are back in place now. Opinions? I need this car drivable ASAP!

 

[oren hughbanks]

Looks like you have some back tracking to do. I would start at the maf sensor first. There's alot your going to need to check considering you just got it , and the last owner's work is obviously questionable.

Your gona have to get a idea at exactly what you have for mods if we can give you a good idea of where to start.

But first, turn that boost down. I would only be running waste gate pressure (10psi or so) with that afc. Trust me on this bro, I have a AFC too. That's goes double if your still running Stock 20+ year old injectors.

Next, you will have to start by doing all of your maintenance checks. Timing belt in good shape? Checked your spark plugs and wires? Coil pack? Fluid services?

Your gona want to do a boost leak test too, even though it may not seem like you have one. What kind of vacuum do u pull at Idle? Is your boost gauge accurate? Dont trust the factory one either

I dont mean to bombard you with all this stuff. But it's something we all have to do with our dsms, or any old car.

If your looking for some wiring diagrams, and mod walkthroughs , check out the VFAQ website. That'll have some good information for that maf wiring diagram, also, pull out your ecu and examine the condition of the board

 

[Olddirtyadams]

Update: ic inlet hose barely came out of its silicone coupler, didn't notice it the first time.the car has rc injectors my bad, so I'm not running 20 psi on a stock fuel system. I'll reattach my pipe and get back to y'all. Sorry for being a noob.

 

[oren hughbanks]

No apologies bro, we r all noobs at one point. That's why the forum exists, so the dsm community can help other fellow dsmers.
But just trust me, turn the boost down for now, until you get something better to tune with. An afc works, but it's old tech. Like those big brick cell phones? Compared to what we have now. Just trying to save you some head aches in the future. You may have the fuel to support it, but it's the timing you need to look at next. And 1g timing is very aggressive on the stock maps.

I would pull out your boost controller, and replace all your old, leaking vacuum lines.
Dsms are like anything else in the car world, u gotta pay to play. Spending the money on link, or a haltech ecu, or AEM, is alot cheaper than doing a whole rebuild from blowing out ring lands, exploding spark plugs, torching head gaskets. I've done all of the above , lessons I have learned the hard way.

 

[Olddirtyadams]

All valid points brother, got the boost hose back on, gonna have to figure something out because I know its gonna pop off again, dude had the stock 2.0 hardpipe going to the 2.5 inch intercooler with a reducer that's too short. I need to figure out why it's dying at startup now, I'll probably order a new coolant temp sensor I can't imagine it being anything but that. Gonna try to delete the boost controller on Monday. Appreciate the help. Going to look into getting a dsmlink down the road but the afc Will have to do for now. My wideband number seem safe, about 12:1 ish at wot, blowing some smoke at boost though probably coming from my pcv which is vented to the atmosphere though. Thanks for the help bro.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

What color is the smoke when in boost?

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Buy yourself a digital volt.meter with continuity for.checking.check engine.lights or for checking if your injectors are stuck open( no continuity) and for.ohms I had similar issues with my good ol lasers injectors one of them were 175 ohms wayyyyyyy out of range for turbo injectors they should be 5-6 ohms at most non turbos are 15'ohms even.if.you have.no check engine.lights check the injectors ohms ud be surprised how a.few ohms( a bad injector) can cause.your.car to sputter.not accelerate ,bog down, or.even.not respond.at all and.cause zero cel codes

 

[Olddirtyadams]

Grey. Definitely fuel from larger injectors and garbage tune its currently running. I know my rings and turbo and hg are good hahah learned all about tailpipe smoke from my mk3 Supra .

 

[oren hughbanks]

I bet alot of that smoke is from not having the crank case, I had the same issue when I first bought my talon. First time I even touch boost it rolls smoke out the tailpipe and I messed my pants, thinking I just blew it up.

 

[mercaholik]

12:1 @ wot on a factory map is a little lean, it'll make more and more power till you melt it down. Usually wot a/f ratios are 10-11:1, which leaves a little safety margin. If you do have a 2g maf then I believe it changes the shape of your timing curve. So you'll need to have it tuned, everyone (including me) is gonna tell you to get ecm link as your next mod. It will make you more power, safer than the afc.

 

[jared98gst]

They read differently than 1g maf if thats what you mean, normally with no ecm link, you'd do 550s 2g maf and AFC. But op got other issues first

 

[Type1DSMr]

EDIT: car is a gst, not a tsi. I apologize.


New guy here,



Bought car this week, so I'm not the one who molested it, save your flaming.

1990 eclipse gst 5spd
Bigger (450?) afc injectors
16g turbo
Front mount
Open dump bov
2g maf?
Apexi super afc 5 knob v1
Electronic valve controller? (May be a boost controller)
Ebay fpr.
Unknown if larger fuel pump.

I'm having serious issues revving past 3k in any gear whether stationary or driving. Can't get the car above 45 mph.The issue started yesterday, me and a friend where replacing some wiring for my coolant temp sensor (car idles rough then dies until warm unless you apply throttle), when finished, we tried messing with the idle and the afc to see if we could get it to start smoother. After that I took the car out, made two pulls up to 45, then car started to bog down, sputter, around 3k rpm. I know it's a tuning/electronics issue, when I bought the car I had it on the highway doing 20psi pulls at 75-85 mph, drove the car 35 miles highway and city and only had this issue in first gear, after that car drove normal. I'm getting fuel I know that, 40 psi at wot, my afr is 11-12:1ish at wot cars idle afr is 10.0. I also can't imagine I have a boost leak considering I was building 20psi a day ago. I did have to take my intake off and disconnect the maf while rewriting but both are back in place now. Opinions? I need this car drivable ASAP!

You say your idle afr is 10 that is way too rich should be around 14.7 in close loop. May want to check your front o2 sensor but I know a lot of 1g dsmers throw on a 2g maf with 550cc injectors without a tune say it's safe but really all depends on the car. Save up for ecmlink and mean time do a boost leak test and last thing a coolant temp sensor can cause many different problems such as rough idle and wanting to die or rough starting.

 

[Olddirtyadams]

So i am running pig rich at idle, ill try to use the afc to get that number higher, Those wot afr numbers i gave y'all where just me eyeballing the meter, i had my eyes mainly focused on the road. Im gonna take a friend with me next drive and record what my numbers are. I wanta say it was around 11.0-11.8 at wot. Now i just gotta get that coolant sensor figured out, rewired it and still having trouble on cold starts. Probably gonna order the sensor itself next.

 

[Type1DSMr]

Also is your bov vented? If so recirculate it asap as that will throw off the maf reading and cause it to run rich especially in between shifts. Again change the coolant temp sensor and recirculate the bov and still blt. Eliminate the cheap and easy problems first.