ECMlink 90 DSM just put on SD need help with log

[unchuchable]

I have a 90 GST that I've been having problems out of.

When originally put on SD, everything ran fine but then I changed the throttle body and seemed to have all kinds of hell out of her for the last 2 years. Well I think I found my culprit in the MAP sensor connector was shorting out.

Now I've got her moving under her own power but I don't wanna mess anything up again so hoping I can post a few logs and have somebody with some knowledge help me out.

As stated the car is a 90 GST and mods are of course SD, FP manifold, bored .20 over then ARP headstuds and new gasket, Walbro 255 pump, TRE 1000cc injectors, FMIC, 2.5 turbo back exhaust AEM wideband in front O2, stock 14b turbo for now.

I am going to post 2 logs. First one is cold start and you can see how my AFR starts good then slowly goes lean. Second one is at operating temperature, it's only about 30 seconds long because the car dies and won't start back up. My battery jumper died so I figured this was at least a start to see what I may need to do to the car or in DSMLink.

Thanks beforehand with any and all help, its greatly appreciated!

 

[unchuchable]

Are you running base 1g fuel pressure at 37psi? Most injectors I've seen all have their numbers based on 43psi base which will change the global fuel scaling number as well.

I didn’t realize it was 37 I thought it was 43. Should I lower my afpr to 37 then cause that could be a problem as well.

 

[unchuchable]

Well for 1g idle switch adjustment, I'd suggest reading the Six Sigma page for that.
Down in the Idle Switch section they talk about how on a 1g the idle switch has both an electrical function and a mechanical function. The mechanical function is to be the idle stop screw just like you would have on most normal old-school mechanical throttle linkages. So read that section, it tells you how to adjust it. I still don't know though what happens if you adjust it a little different than what they say. When you have an aftermarket throttle body, you just adjust the idle stop screw so that the butterfly opening gives you an amount of airflow that results in the ISC operating in its useful range and having the desired idle speed, which for us is

Well for 1g idle switch adjustment, I'd suggest reading the Six Sigma page for that.
Down in the Idle Switch section they talk about how on a 1g the idle switch has both an electrical function and a mechanical function. The mechanical function is to be the idle stop screw just like you would have on most normal old-school mechanical throttle linkages. So read that section, it tells you how to adjust it. I still don't know though what happens if you adjust it a little different than what they say. When you have an aftermarket throttle body, you just adjust the idle stop screw so that the butterfly opening gives you an amount of airflow that results in the ISC operating in its useful range and having the desired idle speed, which for us is different than stock.

Shew sorry guys it’s been a long last 2 days. I did come home to my fresh new wideband sitting on the porch today. So far I have gotten the old one out and the new one everything is ran from their locations just have to wire everything up and see what is happening from there. Fingers crossed! I’m am also gonna double check idle switch and see if my IAT wire is giving me problem by trying to wiggle it around. I will also adjust the max octane table as stated. And sounds like I need to readjust my afpr. Should find some time tomorrow evening. I think I’ll be ready to change all my gauges now cause I think I’m gonna dig the look of this db blue gauge all blacked out sitting there.

 

[unchuchable]

Oh man. When he says "Offset" I suppose he is talking about what we put in for Injector Battery Adjust? (A chart that shows deadtime at several different voltages.) Can you post a shot that shows their sheet for that stuff?



Awesome!


The ohmmeter is to tell you the On or Off state of that switch, and you can see that right in the logs. Look at the log item called IdleSwPin. It should be 1 when your foot is off the gas pedal and 0 when you are on the gas pedal. Yours is doing that. So it's good as far as - you wouldn't even need to be simulating Idle Switch. But the simulation is working perfectly too.
As far as going and using it to adjust the butterfly open amount when foot is off the gas - I don't think it's supposed to be done that way. But again, I don't know what to say about that. It might be useful just to see what happens.

I will also get a photo of the small sheet they sent with my injectors.

 

[We're on Boost]

I didn’t realize it was 37 I thought it was 43. Should I lower my afpr to 37 then cause that could be a problem as well.

You should leave your actual regulator set at 43 psi.
But in that calculator on the Fuel tab, the idea of it would be to put 43 in there instead of 37 if that's how your regulator is set.
So you can do that, and it will calculate a new Global Fuel number for you, and it will make it more minus.
It will make it -60.9% instead of -57.8%.
So you can try it. I mean right now I think you are in the phase of trying things, and in the case of the injectors it's extra fuzzy because of the Static vs Pulsed rating thing.

 

[We're on Boost]

And sounds like I need to readjust my afpr.

Leave your physical regulator set to 43 psi.

I think I’ll be ready to change all my gauges now cause I think I’m gonna dig the look of this db blue gauge all blacked out sitting there.

Yeah!
You got more stuff done in the last few days then I get done in a month!
While you are on the ECU Inputs page remember to change FrontO2 Connected Sensor to Factory/None.

 

[unchuchable]

Leave your physical regulator set to 43 psi.



Yeah!
You got more stuff done in the last few days then I get done in a month!
While you are on the ECU Inputs page remember to change FrontO2 Connected Sensor to Factory/None.

Even with the new lc-2? Also from what I understand for calibrating I unhook the sensor from the harness and key on for a minute then key off connect the sensor in open air and key on again and wait for the light to go solid green, key off again and install the sensor and should be good?

 

[We're on Boost]

Even with the new lc-2?

What is this question referring to?
Oh wait, are you going to take the narrowband O2 out and put the LC2 wideband sensor in there instead of the narrowband?

 

[Stapl3]

Dont get hung up on the 37 or 43 base pressure, or setting it with the vacuum line off, etc. You can put your base fuel pressure to whatever you like. The global fuel % will offset whatever you physically put the regulator at. They are dance partners.

I have ran as low as 30psi base but the car felt a little weird. I currently run one of my cars at 80psi base. The higher it is, the better the behaviour of the car. Only rule really is you can't go too high because the system does have to raise 1:1 during boost.

It all basically depends on your pump and boost level, but I run my base fuel pressure as high as I can.

 

[We're on Boost]

for calibrating I unhook the sensor from the harness and key on for a minute then key off connect the sensor in open air and key on again and wait for the light to go solid green, key off again and install the sensor and should be good?

That sounds close. It goes like this:

1.) Sensor is not in the pipe and is not connected to the electrical connector either.
2.) Power up the LC-2.
3.) Status light should go Green for 2 seconds, then it should turn Red and flash 2-blinks over and over. This is the code for "Sensor not connected". Let it keep running like this for at least 30 seconds, flashing the code.
4.) Turn the LC-2 power off.

5.) Connect the electrical connectors to the sensor. Sensor is still in Free Air.
5.) With the sensor still in Free Air, Power up the LC-2. Status light should go Green for 2 seconds. Then it should start flashing as the sensor heats up. After 30-60 seconds the status light should flash very quickly meaning it is calibrating. Then the status light should go solid Green, which means it's done.

6.) Power off the LC-2. Then you can disconnect the sensor from the cable and put the sensor into your pipe bung on the car. After the sensor is tightened into the bung, you can reconnect the cable to it, and it is ready to use.

 

[unchuchable]

What is this question referring to?
Oh wait, are you going to take the narrowband O2 out and put the LC2 wideband sensor in there instead of the narrowband?

That is the plan as I don’t have a second bung in at the moment to move it to the downpipe.

 

[We're on Boost]

That is the plan as I don’t have a second bung in at the moment to move it to the downpipe.

Ok, then you would put LC1 wideband in there for FrontO2 on the Inputs page.

Then you will have to be simulating narrowband again.
For the LC-1 or LC-2 the WB switch point should be 2.43 volts.

Forgot to say for the LC-2:
Run the LC-2 ground wire to good ground metal on the car. Could be the unpainted sheet metal of your center stack over the transmission tunnel under the dashboard.
Don't use the Brown wire for anything. Your signal wire for both the gauge and the ecu is the Yellow wire.

 

[We're on Boost]

LC1 wideband. Not Linear wideband. On the FrontO2 input.