2G 6 bolt swap timing belt installation

[chrisman287]

I’ve been having a bit of an issue with the car running and noticed my timing is slightly off. I took everything apart to redo it but noticed the side motor mount bracket won’t allow me to insert the long tool to compress the auto tensioner. I ended up loosening the tensioner pulley which allowed me to remove the belt.

Should I remove the bracket to be able to insert the tool to compress the auto tensioner and install the belt like normal or can I just slip the belt back on and tension/tighten the tensioner pulley?

 

[pieceofcloth]

I'd place a jack under your pan with a board in-between. Lift slowly and just enough to support the engine. Remove the bracket, insert the tool, put the pin in your tensioner, align your pump and gears correctly(TDC), place belt back on, tension, then release tension pin. Rotate engine three time manually with ratchet back to TDC, wait a good 12 mins and place pin back in tensioner. If pin goes in fine, you should have done your tension correctly. While rotating engine manually, make sure to "feel" for no metal to metal hitting, like valves to piston. It should rotate fairly easy. With spark plugs in, it'll build pressure. Without, it'll rotate a bit easier.

But yes, remove bracket and use tool

 

[chrisman287]

I do have the jack under the pan. The front motor mount is disconnected since I’m waiting for a replacement.

Spark plugs were removed and I put cylinder 1 to TDC. I’m going to lock the gears and try to remove the bracket then do the rest as normal. Thanks for your help.

EDIT: But the tensioner arm is on the bracket so what should I do? I tried to get a c-clamp on the arm and tensioner to try to compress it but didn’t work.

 

[pieceofcloth]

Man I'm confused. When you said bracket, I thought you meant the side mount for some reason. You're talking about the bracket that the mount hooks onto? I don't recall ever removing that. I've never removed any bracket with the pulleys either. Can you post a picture so we can see the exact issue please? Thanks

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[chrisman287]

I am talking about the side mount. This is a 2g that’s 6 bolt swapped

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[pieceofcloth]

And the tensioner you're talking about tightening is the pulley? i was thinking the hydraulic tensioner, with the piston. can you get to the pulley from underneath?

 

[chrisman287]

I don’t think I can insert the long rod tool to push the arm down to compress the auto tensioner. The bracket circled is in the way.

What I did was loosen the tensioner pulley which allowed me to release the belt tension and slip the belt off.

I figure the correct way to put the belt back would be to insert the long rod tool to compress the auto tensioner, put the pin, put the belt, lock the tensioner pulley then release the pin, rotate crank and check TDC marks along with inserting the pin back to check the auto tensioner but I don’t see a way to.

The auto tensioner arm is mounted onto the mount bracket so I can’t remove the bracket without moving both. So do I just put the belt back on and lock the tensioner pulley?

 

[pieceofcloth]

I'm not familiar with the 6 bolt swap in a 2g. Hopefully some one can chime in or if you Google 6bolt in 2g dsmtuners, some results should pop up. Sorry for the confusion

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I’m not sure if your car has had it done but I believe to be able to use your long threaded rod tool modifications have to be done to the bracket. The holes don’t like up correctly.

Jafro has a good video showing everything needing done to do what you have done. He also shows how he clearances some things and modifies the hole in said bracket to be able to use the threaded rod you trying to use. Search YouTube a little I’m sure you’ll find it.

Maybe someone else something for you that I’m missing as I have a 7 bolt in my 2g.

Good luck, Daniel

 

[Tyeler18]

Step one- throw the long tensioner rod in the trash. I tried to use mine on the first timing job I ever did and have never once touched it since.
Step two- remove the hydraulic tensioner from the car. 2 bolts, stick it in a vice and SLOWLY compress it until you can put the pin back in. I always install the grenade pin before removing the belt or loosening tension so I don't have to remove the tensioner from the car. If you can't reinstall the pin your belt tension wasn't set right in the first place (I have 60k timing belts come into the shop I've done years before that the pin still drops right in).
Step three would be installing the tensioner and continue on with your timing job. Make sure to set the belt tension with the eccentric pulley so that you can remove the grenade pin by hand with no drag. You should be able to reinstall the pin if you have tension set properly.

 

[chrisman287]

Step one- throw the long tensioner rod in the trash. I tried to use mine on the first timing job I ever did and have never once touched it since.
Step two- remove the hydraulic tensioner from the car. 2 bolts, stick it in a vice and SLOWLY compress it until you can put the pin back in. I always install the grenade pin before removing the belt or loosening tension so I don't have to remove the tensioner from the car. If you can't reinstall the pin your belt tension wasn't set right in the first place (I have 60k timing belts come into the shop I've done years before that the pin still drops right in).
Step three would be installing the tensioner and continue on with your timing job. Make sure to set the belt tension with the eccentric pulley so that you can remove the grenade pin by hand with no drag. You should be able to reinstall the pin if you have tension set properly.

I don’t have a vice. Will a c-clamp work?

 

[97egl]

I don’t have a vice. Will a c-clamp work?

It'll probably be a pain to compress depending on the size of the c-clamp but definitely could be done with one.

 

[chrisman287]

It'll probably be a pain to compress depending on the size of the c-clamp but definitely could be done with one.

C-clamp ftw.

Thanks for the help guys. Having the motor in and that bracket in the way threw me off

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[curt-s]

It'll probably be a pain to compress depending on the size of the c-clamp but definitely could be done with one.

Done it with a c-clamp and done it with a bench vise. I definitely agree, the clamp is a pain, especially if it doesn't have a center indentation.

@chrisman287, I just hope you only gave the clamp a quarter turn every 10 seconds or so.

 

[chrisman287]

I just hope you only gave the clamp a quarter turn every 10 seconds or so.

Yes I had to turn it slowly because my clamp doesn’t have that indentation like you mentioned. I had to sort of hold it in place and turn it.

 

[chrisman287]

Can someone tell me wtf I’m doing wrong. This shit is driving me crazy.

Cam gears are locked. I line up crank sprocket on the mark and put tension on the pulley and it moves the mark on the sprocket. I try to put crank sprocket a tooth off and put tension on the pulley then it doesn’t move the mark on the sprocket and doesn’t line up.

 

[chrisman287]

I ended up lining up the crank sprocket on the mark, advancing the exhaust cam an extra tooth, locking it then once the belt was around I removed the lock and tensioned the pulley. Came out mint!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Glad you got it finally!
I have my "own" way of timing that you might look at, just to see HERE.