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2G Need help with timing belt installation

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dsmcoder

10+ Year Contributor
384
0
Oct 12, 2010
Havre, Montana
I had to remove this bolt because it was in the way of the water pump, the bolt holds a little bracket that the timing belt tensioner pulley connects to. I noticed the bracket wiggles up and down and I'm not sure what position it needs to be in. I also need to find out what the torque specs are for this bolt.

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Thanks guys
 
You need to rewatch the videos on how to do a timing belt job on a 4g63 before you mess something up.

First of all. That bolt is 14 ft/lbs for its torque spec.

Secondly, you need to compress the tensioner arm using the tensioner rod that goes through the motor mount from the back of the mount. This will apply tension to the hydraulic auto tensioner, which will allow you to finally tension the belt with the tensioner pulley.
 
Thanks for the torque specs, this picture isn't of my car, my water pump and auto tensioner is already out, I just need to put the bracket back on in the right position.
 
I would suggest watching this video: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/383386-new-timing-belt-tutorial-video.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114357&d=1287083995
Torque Specs for timing are on page 32

It wouldn't be a bad idea to check out these links on the vfaq:
Timing Belt Checklist - Pre-Install
Timing Belt Checklist - Removal
Timing Belt Checklist - Install
Crankshaft sprocket tool
Timing Belt VFAQ Addition 1
Timing Tool
Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)

I would also replace your tensioner for sure, and if it were me i would replace the pulleys and the belts. While your at it doing the balance shaft removal might be something to look into.
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install
 
While your at it doing the balance shaft removal might be something to look into.
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

A balance shaft removal with the motor in the car is a little tricky. OP, if you are seriously contemplating removing your BS, make sure you completely understand everything that is involved. It isn't as straight forward as a simple timing belt/water pump job. The rest of zanderson's advice is pretty sound though.
 
You can either make a new tool using you battery tie down or pull the tensioner off and recompress it using a bench vise. If you choose to use a bench vise find the compressing rate. I don't have time to find it for you, but it is very important to compress it extremly slowly in order to not break the seal.

Tool:
Timing Belt VFAQ Addition 1
Timing Tool
 
I got the tension set and the timing cover back on, what is the torque specs for the water pump pulley bolts? Also how do I know how tight to make my accessory belts?
 
Thanks, now how tight do the accessory belts need to be? How would I check this?
 
I got everything back together and my car is running. I noticed my valve cover is cracked by the spark plugs, could I just put some rtv on the crack and try to seal it or would this be a bad ideal?
 
You'll be fine running it like that for a little while, but I would suggest replacing it when you can. There were a few people selling them on here awhile back for a fair price, you may still find one for sale.
 
Whats the purpose of loosen/tighten the tensioner pulley bolt when doing the belt?
 
I had to remove this bolt because it was in the way of the water pump, the bolt holds a little bracket that the timing belt tensioner pulley connects to. I noticed the bracket wiggles up and down and I'm not sure what position it needs to be in. I also need to find out what the torque specs are for this bolt.

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Thanks guys
Okay so I just did a timing belt today. These are the instructions (to the best of my knowledge) for a stock 7 bolt 4g63t

1. Align the cam gears together. Both cams have marks that line up and should also be parallel with the engine block. The dowels in the cams must be UP!! very important. If you don't have a tool to lock them in place then use zip ties, I used zip ties and they worked perfectly.

2. Next you are going to want to route it clockwise because you want all the slack to be on the tensioner pulley, so route it down around the idle pulley and to the oil pump.

3. The oil pump has a dot on the cog that lines up with a protruding medal arrow, line it up and attach the belt. Be careful as the balance shaft that it is connected to has weights to counter weight the driveshaft and it will spin with gravity so keep an eye on it.

4. The crank has a small belt that goes to the upper balance shaft on the left side of the engine. Make sure those are in time with each other. The timing of the upper balance shaft is dependent on the crank only because it has a different belt from the timing belt. The upper balance shaft should have an arrow that should point to a slot in the surrounding medal wall. The crank has a notch on the crank position sensor (the small metal plate that goes in the sensor) that lines up with a line on the surrounding medal case.

Now it is important the belt is drawn tight before you install it on the crank cog so it doesn't skip a tooth (remember you are putting the belt on clockwise starting from the intake cam). I found it easier to get the belt into place first then put on the crank cog as the space is very compact.

5. Check you work and make sure everything is still in time. That should include the cams, oil pump, crank and balance shaft.

6. There should already be enough tension in the belt to where you wont have to hold on to it, but be careful. You will want to compress the automatic tensioner thingy and have the grenade pin installed. Loosen the tensioner pulley hub (on the arm that rotates and allows for correction whilst in movement) and install the tensionor with the grenade pin still in.

7. After you set the timing belt tension then remove the grenade pin, check your timing marks, remove the zip ties holding the belt on the cams, and then turn the engine over at least 20 times. If anything is wrong then start over again, this is something that is worth taking your time on.
 
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