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6 bolt in a 2g pilot bushing/crank bolts

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95eclipseSlow

15+ Year Contributor
131
2
Dec 10, 2007
Taylor, Michigan
After forgetting to put on my starter plate :ohdamn: I removed the flex plate. The pilot bushing has apparently been notched into by the crank bolts. Any idea why this happened? The washer type flange on the bolt is what dug into the pilot bushing. Can I just de-burr the spots on the pilot bushing where the metal has been smashed and reuse the bushing? It was brand new to begin with. The tapered side of the pilot bushing goes into the end of the crank right?

Here you can see where the flange of the bolt dug into the pilot bushing
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This tapered side goes into the end of the crank right?
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The pilot bushing will be fine as is because the torque converter snout just spins inside the pilot bushing to keep everything centered... it might look like crap but will still do its job just fine... the pilot bushing should be installed with the "step" facing away from the motor and pointing to the trans IIRC.
 
De-burred the pilot bushing and re-installed it back into the crank with the step facing the trans as that is the proper way to install the bushing. The stepped section actually allows the crank bolts to be tightened down without interfering with the pilot bushing. The other issue I have right now involves the starter plate bolts. One of the bolt holes is done for. Do you think it would be okay with only one starter plate bolt (small m6 bolt)? The dowel pins keep everything aligned and I think when the trans gets bolted on there really would not be any reason that it would not be okay with only one.
 
check my profile pictures and you will see my 2g automatic starter plate that was clearanced for my kiggly 7 bolt flexplate. I had to cut the center section out to keep my kiggly flexplate from rubbing on the starter plate once bolted to the converter which would cause everything to bind... you will be fine as long as you have your starter half moon hole and all of the holes where the bolts go through to bolt the trans to the block, the starter plate keeps the proper clearance between the trans and the motor so all thats really needed it the outer part... but yeah you will be fine with just 1 bolt if nothing rubs or binds up upon Install (remember the kiggly flexplate is almost twice as thick as the stock flexplate).

Hope that helped! :thumb:
 
Yea thanks for the reply. When I had the flexplate bolted on I checked for clearance with the rear main, starter plate/bolts, and converter bolts to starter plate. All I had to do was shave off excess gasket from the pan below the rear main. Everything else had decent clearance.
 
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