6-bolt crank no start

[spyderdrifter]

I recently found out my '95 gst had a 6-bolt swap done before I bought it. I've replaced/ repaired a lot of parts and still it won't start up. Those parts are as follows:
New battery
New starter
New cables for both
New plugs and wires
New ignition coils
New walbro fuel pump
New engine/ecu wire harness
New 1g cas (from '94 gst)
Newly fabricated wire harness for 1g cas
Re-pinned ecu injector pins
Swapped spark plug firing order

All fuses are good, all wire connections are good. I've triple checked all pinning and fabricated wire harnesses ffor accuracy and everything checks out. All timing marks were lined up at TDC for installation of 1g cas. Still not starting even with a jump. No CEL. I'm at a point of not knowing what else to do. I had my battery checked last night even though I've only had it a week and it had a good charge. I don't have my down pipe on since I removed it a while back to check something and never put it back. Don't think there'd be a back pressure issue for starting. Anyone have any ideas or seggestions?

 

[eDeclpse92]

i am having the same exact problem! everything checks out and it still wont start. ive heard a bad coolant temp sensor can cause it not to start, reads wrong temp and sends too much fuel and floods the motor. ive used my multi meter soo much its not even funny and everything is fine. for the pump, i might be putting on a afpr ### i heard that can be a problem but others have ran a 255 wiith stock fpr. idk, im taking mine to a perfromance shop who said they'd diagnose it for 75 an hour. they said itll take less than an hour. they know what they are doing, once they find whats wrong on mine il let you know, maybe youll have the same problem. but like everyone is going to say check fuel, compression and spark.
good luck!

 

[DeviantBoost]

It sounds like your issue dosnt neccessarily have to do with the 6bolt swap. does your CEL blink once then turn off as you key it to run before starting it? that could be a sign of the ECU not powering up.

 

[dueckl]

the same thing happened to me it wont start but it died when i was driving

 

[92AWDHX40]

No cel problem with ecu, mine did that my ecu was fried. Check that.

 

[MrCotinTail]

I agree, ive had lots of exspearance with ECU's going out. more then likly thats your problem, Have you checked for fire, Injector signal,fuel pump running etc. etc....? Theres also a chance that the timing belt had jumped, there is a spot on the cams it can hit the leaves it sounding like theres no fire no compression and or life what so ever and its just that the bely is off a mere few teeth. Ive trashed atleast half a dosen heads I talking from good solid exsperiences

 

[spyderdrifter]

I agree, ive had lots of exspearance with ECU's going out. more then likly thats your problem, Have you checked for fire, Injector signal,fuel pump running etc. etc....? Theres also a chance that the timing belt had jumped, there is a spot on the cams it can hit the leaves it sounding like theres no fire no compression and or life what so ever and its just that the bely is off a mere few teeth. Ive trashed atleast half a dosen heads I talking from good solid exsperiences

I don't have any experience with ECUs beside unplugginf the harness and repinning the injector pins yesterday. How do I check it for servicability? I also got a guy in town who's parting out a '98 GSX which is automatic. Would I be able to use his ecu in mine (mine's manual)?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Its easy open it up and look at the boad see if its leaking at the caps, thats the way to test. Also it coiuld be a wiring issue, you never know. Thats where a logger or link comes in handy checking codes.

 

[spyderdrifter]

It sounds like your issue dosnt neccessarily have to do with the 6bolt swap. does your CEL blink once then turn off as you key it to run before starting it? that could be a sign of the ECU not powering up.

I guess it does blink once. It turns on for 5-6 seconds then goes off. Also, all indicator lights are bright except the battery light and another light that I never had on my previos DSMs. I mentioned this to the dude I talked to at checkers and he said it was normal, again, something never seen on the previous DSMs.

I agree, ive had lots of exspearance with ECU's going out. more then likly thats your problem, Have you checked for fire, Injector signal,fuel pump running etc. etc....? Theres also a chance that the timing belt had jumped, there is a spot on the cams it can hit the leaves it sounding like theres no fire no compression and or life what so ever and its just that the bely is off a mere few teeth. Ive trashed atleast half a dosen heads I talking from good solid exsperiences

I have checked for spark, fuel, & timing. Gets plenty and all timing marks line up, even with TDC. I haven't checked compression since I don't have the tester or even know how.

Its easy open it up and look at the boad see if its leaking at the caps, thats the way to test. Also it coiuld be a wiring issue, you never know. Thats where a logger or link comes in handy checking codes.

Well I got my ecu open and it appears normal. What caps are you refering to, and leaking what? Thanks.

 

[DeviantBoost]

corrosion2g01 [ECMTuning - wiki]

Here is a good description of what your looking for in leaky capacitors. I doubt this is where your problem lies.

Has the ISC connector and Injector resistor pack been disconnected? Were the connectors reinstalled correctly. they are the same style connector.

 

[spyderdrifter]

corrosion2g01 [ECMTuning - wiki]

Here is a good description of what your looking for in leaky capacitors. I doubt this is where your problem lies.

Has the ISC connector and Injector resistor pack been disconnected? Were the connectors reinstalled correctly. they are the same style connector.

What is the ISC connector and where is the injector resistor pack? To the best of my knowledge, these are still connected. I did disconnect everything when I swapped the harnesses, but I know everything was reconnected as I disconnected and reconnected everything individually so I wouldn't miss anything.

 

[DeviantBoost]

What is the ISC connector and where is the injector resistor pack? To the best of my knowledge, these are still connected. I did disconnect everything when I swapped the harnesses, but I know everything was reconnected as I disconnected and reconnected everything individually so I wouldn't miss anything.

The ISC is underneath your throttle body. and the resistor pack is a small silver/white box behind your intake manifold. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html

resistor pack: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542336-post52.html
Isc : http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542243-post30.html

 

[spyderdrifter]

The ISC is underneath your throttle body. and the resistor pack is a small silver/white box behind your intake manifold. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html

resistor pack: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542336-post52.html
Isc : http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542243-post30.html

Thanks for the links, they definatelly helped me locate those connections. Both are fully connected and in the correct location. Also went through checking every connection inside my ecu and all those look good and for an electronic component that's 15 years old, it looks surprisingly clean and in great condition.

 

[chanley talon]

Does the 2g use a transducer? If that dude is not hooked up it will not run.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Does the 2g use a transducer? If that dude is not hooked up it will not run.

What do you mean by transducer? Are you refering to the "ignition power transistor"?

 

[DeviantBoost]

yes 2g's also use the ignition transistor. Did you try and pull the spark plug wires and see if your getting spark while someone is cranking?

edit:

Both are fully connected and in the correct location.

they can easily be mistaken and swapped causing your car not to start. did you look at the wire colors in the diagram and see if they checked out?

 

[spyderdrifter]

yes 2g's also use the ignition transistor. Did you try and pull the spark plug wires and see if your getting spark while someone is cranking?

edit:

they can easily be mistaken and swapped causing your car not to start. did you look at the wire colors in the diagram and see if they checked out?

I haven't replaced the transistor yet but found a place that carries it for just over $100. Before I found out the car had a 6-bolt, I had the plugs arranged in the correct order of 4,1,2,3 on the coils and 4,3,2,1 on the plugs. Now that I've redone all the cas wires and found out about the inverted signals, I swapped 1 & 3, and 2 & 4 on the coils while retaining the same position on the plugs and repinned the injector wires on the ecu. I have checked the spark while cranking the engine and all 4 are sparking.

 

[DeviantBoost]

I haven't replaced the transistor yet but found a place that carries it for just over $100. Before I found out the car had a 6-bolt, I had the plugs arranged in the correct order of 4,1,2,3 on the coils and 4,3,2,1 on the plugs. Now that I've redone all the cas wires and found out about the inverted signals, I swapped 1 & 3, and 2 & 4 on the coils while retaining the same position on the plugs and repinned the injector wires on the ecu. I have checked the spark while cranking the engine and all 4 are sparking.

if your getting spark I wouldn't worry about replacing the power transistor.

im not following your wire swap. remember this is a waste spark setup and coils 1&4 fire at the same time one spark ignites the A/F mixture while the other is "wasted" on the cylinder 360 degrees out on the exhaust stroke. then coils 2&3 fire for their cylinders combustion cycle.

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[spyderdrifter]

if your getting spark I wouldn't worry about replacing the power transistor.

im not following your wire swap. remember this is a waste spark setup and coils 1&4 fire at the same time one spark ignites the A/F mixture while the other is "wasted" on the cylinder 360 degrees out on the exhaust stroke. then coils 2&3 fire for their cylinders combustion cycle.

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Well I just looked through the pics I took after I did the swaps and my plugs are in the right coils according to the pic you posted, just flipped on each coil. Unfortunately it's christmas day and I'm pretty sure I won't be able to get a ride from ant of my friends to my garage so I'll have to go at a later time. But thanks for the diagram, I'll let you know what happens when I swap them again.

 

[spyderdrifter]

if your getting spark I wouldn't worry about replacing the power transistor.

im not following your wire swap. remember this is a waste spark setup and coils 1&4 fire at the same time one spark ignites the A/F mixture while the other is "wasted" on the cylinder 360 degrees out on the exhaust stroke. then coils 2&3 fire for their cylinders combustion cycle.

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Well I just tried with that spark plug wire arrangement and still no start. I've seen that layout before listed as being the one for DSMlink which I do not have.

 

[jb2zero0six5]

My 6-bolt is a PITA to start cold.... Try some ether in the upper intercooler piping, just to see if i will pop. I think my coolant temperature sensor for the ecu is out, I have my spark plug wires exactly as mentioned.

 

[Guilty1s]

Check for code. Had a similar problem. No CEL, ran a code. Bad crank angle sensor.

 

[jb2zero0six5]

I believe his crank angle sensor is the cam angle sensor, like mine, because of the 6-bolt swap...

 

[spyderdrifter]

My 6-bolt is a PITA to start cold.... Try some ether in the upper intercooler piping, just to see if i will pop. I think my coolant temperature sensor for the ecu is out, I have my spark plug wires exactly as mentioned.

What is "PITA to cold start"? And yes my crank angle sensor is the cam sensor like yours as you stated. Where can I get ether, and do I just spray it in the piping? And how much? If my coolant temp sensor is out, will it keep my car from starting?

 

[jb2zero0six5]

Oh, sorry PainInTheAss to start cold. Ether = Starting fluid, about two dollars for a smaller can. I just sprayed for a couple seconds toward my throttle body. And yes, the temperature sensor can make it hard start, I'm actually going to check mine tomorrow.