4g63 space wagon runs for a few seconds and dies.

[ordel94]

Hey guys I got this 4g63 space wagon. Ive changed plugs. And timing belt fresh fuel. It started once. And now every time it starts it runs for 2 seconds and then cuts off. Need help from the experts

 

[steve]

What have you looked at so far?
Are you using a DSM ECU and if so which one?

On a 1G DSM this is often caused by the ECU not keeping the fuel pump running so the engine runs with the fuel it got from the starter ciircuit powering the pump and dies when that runs out but you're not a DSM.

 

[ordel94]

What have you looked at so far?
Are you using a DSM ECU and if so which one?

On a 1G DSM this is often caused by the ECU not keeping the fuel pump running so the engine runs with the fuel it got from the starter ciircuit powering the pump and dies when that runs out but you're not a DSM.

Not sure which ecu. But pump comes on at ignition and fuel flows through the rail and returns. Awaiting a fuel pump to try

 

[waltah]

I believe this is the same car that was sold in the U.S. as the Expo/Expo LRV. I've got some of those! They were supplied here with 4g64 and 4g93 engines using distributor ignition.

What year is yours? I assume it is a no-distributor (waste spark) ignition as for other 4g63?

Before installing a new fuel pump put a meter on the fuel pump check connector -- black connector, blue wire I think, center of firewall right behind the throttle body not connected to anything and may be taped back to the harness. That's the power to the fuel pump. See if power goes off after a sec. or so when you try to start. If so, that is your problem and 'why does the power to the fuel pump go off?' is what you want to troubleshoot -- no need to change the fuel pump.

These are great family cars and I simply did not understand Mitsubishi walking away from them after '95 or so in the U.S.

 

[steve]

Before installing a new fuel pump put a meter on the fuel pump check connector -- black connector, blue wire I think, center of firewall right behind the throttle body not connected to anything and may be taped back to the harness. That's the power to the fuel pump. See if power goes off after a sec. or so when you try to start. If so, that is your problem and 'why does the power to the fuel pump go off?' is what you want to troubleshoot -- no need to change the fuel pump.

This ^!
Before replacing anything and possibly introducing new problems check to see if the pump continues to receive port and run or not. That's what I was suggesting but not this clearly.

 

[ordel94]

I believe this is the same car that was sold in the U.S. as the Expo/Expo LRV. I've got some of those! They were supplied here with 4g64 and 4g93 engines using distributor ignition.

What year is yours? I assume it is a no-distributor (waste spark) ignition as for other 4g63?

Before installing a new fuel pump put a meter on the fuel pump check connector -- black connector, blue wire I think, center of firewall right behind the throttle body not connected to anything and may be taped back to the harness. That's the power to the fuel pump. See if power goes off after a sec. or so when you try to start. If so, that is your problem and 'why does the power to the fuel pump go off?' is what you want to troubleshoot -- no need to change the fuel pump.

These are great family cars and I simply did not understand Mitsubishi walking away from them after '95 or so in the U.S.

Seen those connections but really thought they were for fogs

 

[waltah]

Seen those connections but really thought they were for fogs

I believe the blue connector is the #1 cylinder spark pulse for use in timing. I use an induction pickup on the #1 spark plug wire so I've never checked that out.

Before replacing anything and possibly introducing new problems ...

I have to bite my tongue nearly every time I read here. When I change a part it's right the first time maybe 3/4 of the time. Which translates as 1/4 of the time I add a new problem. Defective part, a connector fails, I don't adjust it right, a fuel connection leaks, I lose a unique screw ... and that's not even considering an occasional Really Stupid Mistake.

I think this is me more often than many people here but even as my batting average gradually improves (working on the Ecllipses is making me a better mechanic!) I continue to want to know for sure that it's broke before I fix it.

 

[ordel94]

I believe the blue connector is the #1 cylinder spark pulse for use in timing. I use an induction pickup on the #1 spark plug wire so I've never checked that out.


I have to bite my tongue nearly every time I read here. When I change a part it's right the first time maybe 3/4 of the time. Which translates as 1/4 of the time I add a new problem. Defective part, a connector fails, I don't adjust it right, a fuel connection leaks, I lose a unique screw ... and that's not even considering an occasional Really Stupid Mistake.

I think this is me more often than many people here but even as my batting average gradually improves (working on the Ecllipses is making me a better mechanic!) I continue to want to know for sure that it's broke before I fix it.

What if I put my pump on a switch?

 

[steve]

What if I put my pump on a switch?

It is already, The MPI/MFI relay is a switch for the power to the pump. Depending on how yours is wired grounding the correct pin will turn the fuel pump on.

You don't want to force the pump on normally, it can turn the car into a BBQ in an accident.

If you determine that the problem is that the pump is turning off after starting that would suggest that the ECU is either not seeing crank pulses or the transistor it used to keep the pump running is disconnected (perhaps from capacitor leakage) or damaged.