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4g63 help!!!

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4G63_GSX

10+ Year Contributor
138
0
Apr 21, 2010
Chandler, Arizona
ok so i been working on cars, but mainly imports for going on 5 yrs and i am new to the DSM family so i recently just bought a 95 GSX for this kid who had no idea what he posessed.. i bought it for 2700 but had bent valves, so i basically rebuilt it but with stock internals because at the time had not enough money for forged internals but will soon. new pistons, rod bearings, machined head, new valves, valve guides and a complete engine gasket set. its got a t3/t4 turbo and about 2 1/2-3 in. fmic including piping, turbo was rebuilt w/ special thx to arizona turbo. but basically i know these things are legend for crankwalk and i always keep up maintenance on my cars, what would be a better way to prevent that kind of situation? certain amount of boost? forged internals? engine swap? any info would help.. on any subject for that matter, new to the community but likin it so far.
 
First of all, crankwalk is extremely rare and can happen to any motor, you'll find pretty much any information you'll ever need on this site by searching.
 
i know these things are legend for crankwalk
Thanks for the stereotype.

I suppose you also feel that all Jews are cheap, all Asians are good at math, all Arabs are angry people that like to blow shit up, and all black males are hung like elephants.

Another good stereotype would be that all uneducated Central-Americans start their paragraphs with "ok, so...."


what would be a better way to prevent that kind of situation? certain amount of boost? forged internals? engine swap? any info would help..
You can start by searching this site for information on the topic, and finish by asking any questions you may have in one of the many TECH forums.
 
If it walks then swap it out.
Crankwalk has waaaayy too much hype for the actual amount of problems it really causes on DSMs. Everyone and their sister swaps out the 2G 7 bolts because they're afraid of getting crankwalk. Yes, it may be true that it happens more often in 2Gs than some other engines, but how many are out there that never had a problem? You don't hear about the guys with 200+k on their 2G engine with no sign of it. You only hear from the guy who knew a guy, who's brother had a 2G with crankwalk.
 
You can start by searching this site for information on the topic, and finish by asking any questions you may have in one of the many TECH forums./QUOTE]

+1 To what he said! All too often I see newer guys and some "veterans" of this site asking the same questions that have already been answered numerous times before. Take the time to search for your questions. There is SO much information on this site I cant even begin to tell you. I find myself wanting to just take the easy way out and just make a new thread on a topic because I want a quick answer, in reality your just going to get a shitty response and waste time because you didnt take the time to research..
 
He's halfway there. The words "fully built" were not uttered.

Aye... Must be an Acura guy then. =/ Normally I can spot em' right off...I thought for sure the T3/T4 part was a catch!

Note : Judging by his pictures... Turbonetics?
 
You don't hear about the guys with 200+k on their 2G engine with no sign of it.

Here I am!!!



To the OP, if you want to prevent unneeded wear on your thrust bearings (worn out thrust bearings cause crank walk), only press in the clutch on initial start up and then shift to neutral and let the clutch out. Same thing with sitting at stop lights and stop signs. Only hold in the clutch long enough to get the car into neutral then let the clutch out.
 
you should keep your motor like the one in the car in the pic. the only problem it has weak piston rings, but def no crankwalk:ohdamn:

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YEs it is true I work on Honda's predominantly but I got the car with everything it has now all I have done is put new internals into it. I personally would have gone with a garrett turbo. New to the site and tryin to become part of the dsm family. Keep up the maintenance on most any import and it won't have as many problems. ANd as for the jackass with the smartass comment its not a stereotype its ### I have been hearing.
 
The internals you have now are good for up to about 500HP, once you reach that goal replace them but until then you're good.
 
YEs it is true I work on Honda's predominantly but I got the car with everything it has now all I have done is put new internals into it.
I hope you didn't do it like the Honda guys around here do. Around here, there's at least 3 Honda guys that don't like to shell out for any machining, they reuse head gaskets and they don't even break the cylinder glaze when they replace rings. Maybe that's fine for 2400lbs of N/A CRX that won't ever see 160fwhp, but not for a turbo 4G63 on 20+psi of boost pulling around 3300+ lbs of ass, stereo and AWD.

I personally would have gone with a garrett turbo.
To each their own.

its not a stereotype its ### I have been hearing.
Sure sounds like it to me. What have you been hearing from whom?
Merriam-Webster Dictionary said:
stereotype
Function: noun
Etymology: French stéréotype, from stéré- stere- + type
Date: 1817
1 : a plate cast from a printing surface
2 : something conforming to a fixed or general pattern; especially : a standardized mental picture that is held in common by members of a group and that represents an oversimplified opinion, prejudiced attitude, or uncritical judgment
 
Crankwalk is a big ordeal... it's been overplayed because we've discussed it so much that people think that DSMs crankwalk constantly. It's been ruled down over the years from " Bad head jobs " to " The bearing cradles " that differ from 6 Bolt to 7 Bolt cranks.

One thing mostly everyone can agree on is to remove the clutch safety switch so you don't have to mash on the clutch everytime you start the car. The clutch puts pressure on the crank, which forces it along the Thrust bearing, and POSSIBLY wears on it over time.

Boost? As long as you aren't trying to hit 100PSI and make 700 HP to the front wheels, you'll know when you reach your limit. Keep it low for now until you know more about the car.

The internals are good for now... again, unless you're wanting to make massive HP. The above was a semi-joke by the way. Focus mainly on keeping the engine up to spec, as well as the body. I've seen many people do tons of work to the engine and leave the body neglected. I'm a fan of spreading the love all over.

For a sort answer, treat the car good, it'll treat you good. If you're unsure on if you should upgrade something to handle a bolt on... go on and upgrade it to a stronger component. It's always better to be safe than sorry.
 
"delta448"I hope you didn't do it like the Honda guys around here do. Around here, there's at least 3 Honda guys that don't like to shell out for any machining, they reuse head gaskets and they don't even break the cylinder glaze when they replace rings. Maybe that's fine for 2400lbs of N/A CRX that won't ever see 160fwhp, but not for a turbo 4G63 on 20+psi of boost pulling around 3300+ lbs of ass, stereo and AWD.


no honda doesnt mean ricer... i tune which makes me a tuner i am into all imports... well most imports anyway, and as for money, well i have nothing but.. in an enlisted soldier in the army mpst my money is going into my car.
so a ?? how much psi would i might safely be able to run with stock internals?
 
how much psi would i might safely be able to run with stock internals?

That's a pretty general question for someone who claims to tune. It depends on turbo choice first of all, the mass airflow is not the same at the same boost level on different turbos. Got a datalogger and wideband?

A better estimation of an engine's strength is it's ability to withstand power or torque (read: highly elevated cylinder pressure). Stock 7 bolt rods usually bend or break around 450awhp give or take depending on the tune. 6 bolt rod fasteners usually fail before their rods, generally at a little over 500awhp on a good calibration. If you reach that power level though chances are that you're already thinking about spending the money for the stronger aftermarket forged internals, especially after you've had to put money into the rest of the chassis; as in center diff, transmission and rear axles, which all will undoubtedly also be creeping along their way out of town at around 450awhp.

The most power you should want to run if you're not interested in dealing with hard parts longevity issues and building the whole car up is just a little more than what an Evo 3 16G turbo can provide to most amateur tuners. Yet another reason it's the right turbo choice for >90% of all new DSM owners.
 
Umm, screw the aem parts untill after you've shelled-out the $80-100 for a datalogger set-up. Do what everyone said. Use the forum right, and search. You're gonna be looking for an Evo III 16g, looking to run about 16psi, untill you've done all you're fuel mods and intalled an FMIC. The 16g (and a 2G/evo3 manifold) is a good mod 'cause, even on an otherwise all-stock car, it spools quicker, and you will feel a real-world improvement. After you do all the other mods, you can then crank-up the 16g over 20psi, and blow-up your trans all day long.

There's a feature on this site called "up-grade paths". It's pretty simple. You start at the tail-pipe, and work your way forward.
 
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