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4g63 2.3 Swap+misc

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glyphix

Probationary Member
5
0
Dec 14, 2004
Provo, Utah
First off, to all the DSMT Natives, what's going on? Glad to join the ranks, look forward to learning as much as you all have to offer. That said, I researched the forum quite a bit; if one of my questions has been answered, let me know where?

I recently aquired a 94 DSM, 1.8 N/A (Laser). A lot of the input I came across here involved buying a different car to start with. While I'm not looking to spend loads of cash when fistfuls will do, practicality never crosses the finish line first either.

4g63 2.3 Stroker Stage 2 Short Block?
-Will someone check out this block and share some input?
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=204&cat=128&page=1

-6/7 bolt engine...Wha? I know about Mounts and HASSPORT...am I on the right track?
-Where can I find stock stats on my ride?

There's more questions, but I'll research them more before posting. @ This point, my homework is focused on the engine swap, and I know it'll take time for you guys to help me out on this, but that's cool. Thanks for anything in advance.

*Message modified due to new info
 
just because you have an engine that is able to withstand the pounding of 700hp, does not mean you will ever be there. it's going to take a lot of tuning, as well as lots of bolt ons to get that far.
 
You'll never make 700hp with that motor unless you use a turbo. The most you could hope for with bolt-ons is 200hp to the wheels maybe without the turbo. Besides, those pistons are 8.8:1 compression. If you want to make power you'll need to go at least 10 or 10.5:1. Even then 700hp is out of the question unless you're turbocharged. I'm not entirely sure you're aware of what you're getting into. You will also need a new transmission. The n/a tranny will not hold 200 hp much less 700. The gearset's too weak as are the synchros. If you decide to turbocharge it, you could probably acquire the parts for under a grand and keep the cost down if you do the work yourself. Otherwise expect to spend $2000-$2500 just to turbocharge your vehicle. Oh and if you do the work yourself, turboing is not something you'll typically do in a weekend.

Now, if you decide to go non-turbo and attempt to hit the 200hp mark (which I'm not aware anyone's actually done yet) you will need many boltons. You'll need a new fuel pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, cams, intake, exhaust, air fuel computer, clutch, and a transmission from a turbo vehicle. You will also need to go with high compression pistons. Those parts will cost you around $4k. Expect another couple of grand on top of that if you have someone else do the work. For that money, you can go out and buy a 1g gsx and have enough left over to easily make 300-350hp.
 
My bad. Let me clarify my path:

New engine/new tran/new headers/Turbo'd/CAS or SRS (whichever performs better) I am looking at the heads and block on the site I mentioned above, being set on a swap. However; What engine would you look at? Could I slam a 99 Eclipse GSX engine and trany into the bay?
 
Converting the car to awd is prohibitively expensive. I still say that if you have 7500 to spend, then sell the car and buy a 1g 6bolt AWD and take the remaining 3 or 4k and upgrade the turbo,intake, exhaust, clutch, and fuel system. You'll have a really fast car that is more reliable and a lot less work then what you're proposing. If you're dead set on a swap, that's ok. But, you're better off swapping an engine and tranny from a 6bolt FWD. 7bolts are known to be prone to crankwalk. Also, the 6 bolt rods are stronger and have been demonstrated to hold around 400hp. When you do the swap, you'll also need a turbo wiring harness, turbo ecu, intercooler, and turbo fuel pump. You can do it with the n/t wiring harness, but you'll have to add wires to the stock ecu for the knock sensor, boost conrol solenoid, and one other that I forget off the top of my head. You'll also need a resistor pack for your injectors.
 
why put so much into a car when if you spent that much on a 1g 6- bolt awd thats allready modded and tuned you would have more then enough power to suit you good. just a thought
 
that number is the number of bolts on the crankshaft that hold the flywheel on. the 7-botl motors have a thrust bearing problem that leads to whats called crankwalk. read more here

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm


that is what crankwalk and all is about. so the 6-botl motors have 1 less botl on the crank but hold a lot of power. i will never own a 7-botl motor after i have seen personally what happens to some of them. i used to part motors out at my house and i have done 6 7-bolt motors and 10 6-bolt motors. all the 6-botl motors were in good shape on the bottom end, some had timing belts snap and others just overheated and such. the 7-botl bottom ends were in a lot worse shape then the 6-bolts for some reason. just everythign in the bottom end looked and came otu a lot worse. but then again i havent taken that many of them apart liek some people have.

there has been cases though of 7-botl motors putting otu butt loads of torque. just depends on machine work and such
 
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