The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Resolved 420A Car won't Start

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cropichi

Probationary Member
2
0
Dec 25, 2009
NORFOLK, Virginia
In December I overhauled my engine (420A). It was hydrolocked from a flood we had and i didn't check the intake tube before starting it a few days later and bent a rod. I replaced the pistons, rings, connecting rods, bearings, valves, water pump and timing belt. I also had the block honed by a machine shop and the cams and crankshaft checked, they were fine. I also replaced the starter, idle air control motor, throttle position sensor, and the camshaft position sensor.

The car started up just fine and ran great for about a month (about 1000 miles). Then about 2 weeks ago the engine would shut off while driving but would restart usually on 1st try. Then it wouldn't start at all a few days ago. No Spark or Fuel. I have 48psi fuel to rail and ignition coil is good. I had no signal to coil. I changed out the crankshaft position sensor and the car started right up and ran great.

That was last night, then this afternoon it died on me again again no spark or fuel. I was just looking for some help on where to go next, could the CPS be bad again and if so what could cause a brand new sensor to go bad within 1 day?
 
Solution
Ok, i got it. I have an oil leak that was dripping oil right on the crank sensor and it swelled up the wires and caused a short, which is why the sensor kept burning up.
This may be stupid but did you check your battery connection? I know when the grounding wire leading to the battery wire came loose my car would give me nothing except for all the idiot lights inside.
 
Ok, i got it. I have an oil leak that was dripping oil right on the crank sensor and it swelled up the wires and caused a short, which is why the sensor kept burning up.
 
Solution
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top