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326whp & 312wtq with minor mods

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91fwdrst

Proven Member
53
0
Aug 3, 2013
Buckeye, Arizona
So I took my car to get a dyno done to see where I would be sitting at with the mods that are on the car. I was shocked to what the car made. With a 2g exhaust manifold, Hallman boost controller, vrsf fmic, and a dejon intake pipe with k
&n filter I made 265whp and 268wtq @ 9.1 psi. We turned the boost up some to 13.6 psi, but I ended up hitting fuel cut in the middle of the run so we turned it down to 13.1 which was when the car made 326whp and 312wtq. I am not to sure if anything has been done to the car internally, I checked the turbo its still the stock 14b. A few weeks go by and I'm doing a tune up on the car via spark plugs,wires,and valve cover gasket and me and my friend take the valve cover off and spotless. Like I mean this head looks like its only been on the car for a short period of time. I was talking to my brother who I bought the car from which he bought it from his friend and where trying to figure out if the car has different pistons, ported head, or something done that's not going to be visible unless we take the motor apart. Any ideas what would cause the car to make those kind of numbers and why I would be hitting fuel cut at only 13.6 psi? Thanks for any input.
 
For me its not about the record or worrying about what people think of the numbers but more so what could be done to the car to cause those numbers even if its not a 14b but a hybrid and a partially built motor.

Have you tried, you know, taking the intake pipe off and looking at the compressor wheel?
 
Im thinking your boost gauge is wrong. And it explains why youre hitting fuel cut too. Makes sense to me :)

I think he is using Ultimate Mustang Dynometer bud sounds like his boost gauge was okay. Too much horsepower was the problem we are trying to diagnose. No issues on the boost gauge if i recall.

Boost gauge is good to go and i approved. The problem however is making too much power for our likings.

LMFAOTIFOMPDNW!!!!

(Laugh my funky ass out that I fell off my pet dinosaur named Wilbur)...LOL

;):)
 
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You'd think the dyno shop would calibrate the dyno the other way, so customers would buy more parts from them... not strap up a stock car and dyno 130hp over stock and call it a day. If mine did that right now I could stop throwing money at it... LOL
 
Alot of ppl are think this is a low comp gst but its not.
It had what 140hp stock plus 13pis is prob bout 150hp with the i/c so its not so hard to believe he could be at 300 pending weather conditions.

This was a n/a 4g63 correct?
 
Alot of ppl are think this is a low comp gst but its not.
It had what 140hp stock plus 13pis is prob bout 150hp with the i/c so its not so hard to believe he could be at 300 pending weather conditions.

If you have absolutely no idea what you are talking about, sure.

Then 300whp @ 13psi seems reasonable with a 14B.
 
Alot of ppl are think this is a low comp gst but its not.
It had what 140hp stock plus 13pis is prob bout 150hp with the i/c so its not so hard to believe he could be at 300 pending weather conditions.

This was a n/a 4g63 correct?

Ummm... the rs turbo is the same gst of mitsubishi, which is the 195hp model, good try though.

Wish my front mount made me have 150hp. :thumb:
 
Sorry, edited that to make sense..
This is a high comp engine correct n/a stock?

That's what I originally said on my first post...

Yet a stock RS high comp with bolt ons no Injectors and everything completely stock with stock MAF? Made over 300 whp?

Un built motor? ...

I'm just curious to know what size injectors and fuel pump ...maybe we can get somewhere...
 
Oh yeah,the rs was a turbo factory(tried to buy on from an old lady bout 5yrs ago)
The way he posted it i thought he meant n/a turbo.

So no, a 14b cant create the cylinder pressures need to make 300hp from a low comp 2liter engine
 
Oh yeah,the rs was a turbo factory(tried to buy on from an old lady bout 5yrs ago)
The way he posted it i thought he meant n/a turbo.

So no, a 14b cant create the cylinder pressures need to make 300hp from a low comp 2liter engine

Look, even if it had the slight CR bump from the NA 6-Bolt, it would not even remotely come close. We are talking about an increase in thermal efficiency of less than 3% in going from 7.8:1 to 9.0:1

At sea-level on 13psi and pump gas at 0*F and 0% humidity, the 14B compressor wheel is just not capable of moving the amount of air required to make the torque needed to produce that power on a stock head/cam/displacement 4G63.

His town is listed as ~5000ft actual altitude, to hit the same target boost it will have to run at a much higher shaft speed/PR than at sea level. This puts him in regions of the map that are far less efficient and pushes him off the map sooner as engine demand increases with rpm.

It's not about high comp or low comp. None of what you've posted even deals with the real limiting factors in this equation.

Please refrain from posting "technical help" when it is very obvious you are just making things up based on things you've read on the internet.

I looked at the compressor wheel a little while ago. I don't run nitrous on the car and we tapped right in to the boost source to get a accurate reading

Okay, and did you confirm it was actually a 14B?

Which of these two did it resemble best?:
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Long time ago, I made 249whp/258wtq @ 15psi on a DynoJet with pump 93 in a 5MT 1G FWD, down here less than a 1000ft above sea level.
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The only conditions I saw enough airflow to make >300whp at my altitude was in the winter at night, with temps in the single digits and 24-25psi boost.

That was with a 3" open downpipe, a dumped O2 housing, ported/blended head and a ported 2G exhaust manifold.

Again, less than 1000ft above sea level. No amount of "built" longblock is going to make up for this.
 

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That's what I originally said on my first post...

Yet a stock RS high comp with bolt ons no Injectors and everything completely stock with stock MAF? Made over 300 whp?

Un built motor? ...

I'm just curious to know what size injectors and fuel pump ...maybe we can get somewhere...

You made the assumption it was a turboed rs, not an rs turbo, he never said that anywhere just you saying that because you also have no clue :). Plymouth didn't go by the standards of mitsubishi when they did rs, gs, gst, gsx... kind of like a talon tsi and esi...

He's got a fwd rs turbo which is a gst. 195 base hp with 5 bolt on everyday parts.
 
Look, even if it had the slight CR bump from the NA 6-Bolt, it would not even remotely come close. We are talking about an increase in thermal efficiency of less than 3% in going from 7.8:1 to 9.0:1

At sea-level on 13psi and pump gas at 0*F and 0% humidity, the 14B compressor wheel is just not capable of moving the amount of air required to make the torque needed to produce that power on a stock head/cam/displacement 4G63.

His town is listed as ~5000ft actual altitude, to hit the same target boost it will have to run at a much higher shaft speed/PR than at sea level. This puts him in regions of the map that are far less efficient and pushes him off the map sooner as engine demand increases with rpm.

It's not about high comp or low comp. None of what you've posted even deals with the real limiting factors in this equation.

Please refrain from posting "technical help" when it is very obvious you are just making things up based on things you've read on the internet.



Okay, and did you confirm it was actually a 14B?

Which of these two did it resemble best?:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Long time ago, I made 249whp/258wtq @ 15psi on a DynoJet with pump 93 in a 5MT 1G FWD, down here less than a 1000ft above sea level.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The only conditions I saw enough airflow to make >300whp at my altitude was in the winter at night, with temps in the single digits and 24-25psi boost.

That was with a 3" open downpipe, a dumped O2 housing, ported/blended head and a ported 2G exhaust manifold.

Again, less than 1000ft above sea level. No amount of "built" longblock is going to make up for this.




The housing looked like the one on the right but the wheel looks like the one on the left.

Here is the dyno sheet from when I had it dynoed
 

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You made the assumption it was a turboed rs, not an rs turbo, he never said that anywhere just you saying that because you also have no clue :). Plymouth didn't go by the standards of mitsubishi when they did rs, gs, gst, gsx... kind of like a talon tsi and esi...

He's got a fwd rs turbo which is a gst. 195 base hp with 5 bolt on everyday parts.

I know what it is, and know what it's not. My point is that even if it's a stock 4g63 non turbo but has bolt ons and 14b turbo, stock everything it would not even come close to the numbers he claimed. Now....since he has a RS turbo...he still can't explain why he's making that power, in fact no one here still can't explain because only he knows what's going on we don't we're here posting on a tread with no dyno results pictures and a lot of guesses some good and bad...

The housing looked like the one on the right but the wheel looks like the one on the left.

Here is the dyno sheet from when I had it dynoed

Mustang dyno for the win...
 
Whats the serial number on your housing ? And the wheel, are the fins the same height or alternating high/low ?
 
Whats the serial number on your housing ? And the wheel, are the fins the same height or alternating high/low ?


The serial numbers on the housing were about the same as the one on the left the 49178-0100 im not to sure on the last two numbers though cause its a little dirty by the last two numbers and the blades looked like they kinda alternated in size i couldnt really get a real good look at but the wheel didnt look like the one on the left
 
Either the dyno is grossly miscalibrated, or that's the laggiest 14b ever.

Not enough load + altitude is what I've been thinking this whole time.

Also, talk about an appropriate name for the shop.. LOL

The serial numbers on the housing were about the same as the one on the left the 49178-0100 im not to sure on the last two numbers though cause its a little dirty by the last two numbers and the blades looked like they kinda alternated in size i couldnt really get a real good look at but the wheel didnt look like the one on the left

The one on the left in my post is a 14B, all even blade height. The other is a Big 16G.. which still wouldn't make that much power at that boost/altitude and would be expected to spool faster than what that graph shows. Even for a 20G mated to a TD05h turbine.. the numbers don't really work.
 
The name of the shop is actually dspeed they share a shop currently. I also concerned about the fact that im hitting fuel cut at 14psi.

I just seen your pictures, and saw a pic of the bay, and I gotta say that's one very clean engine...

How many miles did you say it has?
 
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