2G 300-375hp goal, at what point is aftermarket internals necessary?

[dizily555]

I just bought a 95 gsx with a perfect body but a 7 bolt that knocks. Its 100% stock other than exhaust and suspension. I plan to rebuild "obviously" but I don't know what internals can stay and what needs to be stronger for this. My plan is to clean the engine bay and build the engine with cams so its running with stock turbo just set up ready for a bigger turbo and engine management. With these goals from my research I see that stock it can withstand 400hp but also I hear 300hp. Like I said I want the engine to be ready for upper 300hp and am wondering what internals I will need because everyone has a different option. Thanks in advance!

 

[Zufelt]

What's up brotha, I believe you made a post about this in my Build thread, my engine is bone stock. I can't tell you exactly what I'm making as I haven't been on a dyno yet. If you already have to rebuild it, i say go big or go home unless the funds just aren't there. You can make 400hp on a stock block, hell people have made more.. it all depends.

 

[Throwback23]

If your gonna rebuild it might be worth your time to at least run a 1g rod/2g piston but you don't necisarily have to. I would expect a rebuilt 7 bolt to hold 350+ for a long time so long as the supporting mods are there and you have a good tune. Sounds like the e16g fits the goal though.

 

[dizily555]

What's up brotha, I believe you made a post about this in my Build thread, my engine is bone stock. I can't tell you exactly what I'm making as I haven't been on a dyno yet. If you already have to rebuild it, i say go big or go home unless the funds just aren't there. You can make 400hp on a stock block, hell people have made more.. it all depends.

Thanks man, I really appreciate the reply!

 

[dizily555]

If your gonna rebuild it might be worth your time to at least run a 1g rod/2g piston but you don't necisarily have to. I would expect a rebuilt 7 bolt to hold 350+ for a long time so long as the supporting mods are there and you have a good tune. Sounds like the e16g fits the goal though.

Also thanks for the reply, however to add to the question why does everyone say to move to the 6 bolt because to my knowledge its because of crank walk and also it juat has a better wrap for not getting it because there is no crank pos sensor. I agree maybe an upside to the 6 bolt but it comes down to the quality in which the engine is rebuilt. Also I've read that 6 bolt cranks have weaker rods than the 7 bolt which then I say is good for 7 bolt! Are these statements correct or has my limited reading been a waste of time? Also just some info on the car, 115,000 miles, no rust ANYWHERE but the engine knocks bad. I found the gem on craigs posted at three in the morning when I looked to see on Craig's at 6, called him up and came and got it next afternoon for $1000. Im now in the process of taking out the engine but most likely will need a new rod anyway and have the crank resurfaced or by a new one from Oreilly's with my huge discount! "I work there"

 

[Pipnorcali]

Who would run a big turbo for autocross ? t28/14b/s16g is wheres it at

 

[92AWDHX40]

Stock sure, I got a spare engine for my forged internals for my back up. Depends it may run 400hp may not but it will have its breaking point. Run it til it breaks.

 

[GRNDSM]

Unless you are talking about a 16G, big or small, are meaningless terms...

16G can give you 300-450whp, depending how far you want to take, so it is the right turbo for 95% people out there. And it isn’t "too big" to Autox for most people.

 

[dizily555]

Stock sure, I got a spare engine for my forged internals for my back up. Depends it may run 400hp may not but it will have its breaking point. Run it til it breaks.

What would be the breaking point though is the thing im worried about, so say if its rods ill get forged rods. Just curious as to what I can do to ensure it can take that under a budget.

 

[92AWDHX40]

We cant give you a definite engine not a whole lot keeping it stock its the chance you take again run it shoot for 400hp not sure for how long get a spare engine or a built one when you need to getting to 400 isn't hard or easy but just be prepared to upgrade drive train too I building mine bit by bit but I got a lot into it, for maintenance sake, fresh build all new parts, for the engine but ill be upgrading cams later, budget keep it stock and have some fun terrorize the streets and track shouldn't take much from our well engineered blocks. Mitsu put everything in the right spot for our engines. I never blew on up but shooting for over 400 down the road.

 

[Greedy Pimp]

6 bolt rods are more stronger then 7 bolt rods.

 

[Insomniac13]

My old car was the exact opposite of yours dude, engine was strong as a bull but the body was rusted so badly I could kick holes in certain places
That car had run about 300 at the wheels (AWD 5 Speed) for around 5 years when I bought it. The 7 bolts are stronger than most people believe them to be.
However, it may be less money for you to purchase a low mileage or recently rebuilt 6 bolt motor as opposed to rebuilding the 7 bolt. I know my Dad and I wound up spending 3 times the money we'd anticipated on rebuilding our 3000GT VR4 motor .
Just remember, the 6 bolt swap will be more work on your end. There's a few good guides on it, by RRE and Magnus to name a few sources.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Your pole for auto-cross has nothing to do with this discussion. Auto-cross will be a short technical course suited for a smaller turbo. A larger turbo would not have any useable power for autocross because it will not have time to spool before you are on the brakes or off the gas. You should really go to a couple auto-crosses first and research the rules for classing. Mods you are talking about will put you in a class where you will not be competitive at all. If auto-cross is your goal, suspension, tire, and driver mods are where your money should go.

 

[dizily555]

Your pole for auto-cross has nothing to do with this discussion. Auto-cross will be a short technical course suited for a smaller turbo. A larger turbo would not have any useable power for autocross because it will not have time to spool before you are on the brakes or off the gas. You should really go to a couple auto-crosses first and research the rules for classing. Mods you are talking about will put you in a class where you will not be competitive at all. If auto-cross is your goal, suspension, tire, and driver mods are where your money should go.

My goal is maybe auto cross but idk if I want to go big or small, I knew this but the engine is knocking and I believe it is a bad rod bearing. Anyway it needs to be worked on so im going to build it. Also it has aftermarket struts and coils but idk how they feel yet so why spend the money? But thanks for the reply, I should have specified more!

 

[TurboLaserRS]

My vote is 14b in 7cm hotside @ 20PSI, plenty of low / mid range grunt to get you moving with very minimal lag. Or heck, maybe look up one of those ball bearing disco potatoes. Haha.

 

[Seamus]

Whether you use aftermarket rods and pistons or not you should get ARP head studs with the head basket of your choice. The opinions on head gaskets here will make your head spin. I have never had a sealing problem with a factory gasket running over 30psi at some points in 18 years of dsm's.

 

[dizily555]

Whether you use aftermarket rods and pistons or not you should get ARP head studs with the head basket of your choice. The opinions on head gaskets here will make your head spin. I have never had a sealing problem with a factory gasket running over 30psi at some points in 18 years of dsm's.

Thanks for the advice, I was planning on arp head studs and connecting rod bolts. Also I was plann on just a rubber felpro heaf gaskey kit from Oreilly's cause I can get it cheap cause I work there and didnt have any issues with it on my 420a.

 

[Seamus]

I dont know a ything about the gasket you are talking about but I would do a little more research before throwing just any gasket on because it is cheap. A turbo engines head gasket has a lot more demand placed on it than a 420a gasket. If you want a discount so bad, call the mitsu dealer and tell them you are so and so at O'Reillys and you need a cash ticket on a head gasket. That should get you a jobbers price at the very least if not couple percent over invoice.

 

[mercaholik]

But the felpro permatorque is pretty well known for working well with arp's and good sealing surfaces. And as far as internals go, I'm rebuilding my 6 bolt and shooting for around the same hp goal and I'm gonna go with 2g piston/ 1g rod with new npr .20 over pistons and rings. It really is in the tune, if you knock you can ruin your engine real fast forged or not.

 

[dizily555]

But the felpro permatorque is pretty well known for working well with arp's and good sealing surfaces. And as far as internals go, I'm rebuilding my 6 bolt and shooting for around the same hp goal and I'm gonna go with 2g piston/ 1g rod with new npr .20 over pistons and rings. It really is in the tune, if you knock you can ruin your engine real fast forged or not.

Very true, I've learn that through this discussion but my plan is arp head studs, and connecting rod bolts, then wiseco pistons stock rods, and gett my crank refurbished or buying a new oem crank. I agree its all in how quality the build is and also the tune.

 

[dizily555]

I dont know a ything about the gasket you are talking about but I would do a little more research before throwing just any gasket on because it is cheap. A turbo engines head gasket has a lot more demand placed on it than a 420a gasket. If you want a discount so bad, call the mitsu dealer and tell them you are so and so at O'Reillys and you need a cash ticket on a head gasket. That should get you a jobbers price at the very least if not couple percent over invoice.

Also the felpro is a good gasket just saying I can get it cheap. Also if they are making a gaske for a turbo engine vs a n/a engine they wont be made the same, the turbo gasket will be made to withstand the demand. Also as long as the head is torqued properly it will be good.

 

[Seamus]

I know they have different constructions for different applications, I'm just saying that a composite gasket on an name has a different job than a composite on a turbo. You hardly see mls failures on properly prepped surfaces.

 

[keltalon]

Whether you use aftermarket rods and pistons or not you should get ARP head studs with the head basket of your choice. The opinions on head gaskets here will make your head spin. I have never had a sealing problem with a factory gasket running over 30psi at some points in 18 years of dsm's.

Power enterprise is the gasket I would recommend ask me why , well I have at least nine hanging in the shop right now that couldn't do the job for my set up. dynoed 728 today 40 psi power enterprise grommet style gasket holding up quite niecely!!