2G 2g sputter ever since 1g CAS install

[blowinsmoke95]

At a cruise, usually anytime the RPMs stay at or around 3k my car will randomly sputter. I've narrowed it down to its losing either power or ground to an injector. I've tested it several different times, it always affects number 2 OR 3 injector never both at same time, and not always repeatedly. To make it stop I have to physically shut car off and restart. The only way I have found to avoid this problem is to keep the RPMs below 2750, if i do that it doesn't seem to sputter at all.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Ceddy]

Are you using a 1G CAS with a 95 ECU?

The 95-96s used a Inverted Signal CAS, and the 95-96 ECUs require that inverted signal.

(The most likely reason for this is 96 was the start of Federally Mandated OBD2 and Emissions, an Inverted Signal CAS somewhat prohibits using a old style CAS and advancing timing which is not allowed because of Emissions. When the Emissions Laws were not as strict as Mitsubishi expected, they switched back to a "normal" CAS, in 97.)

The sputter, stumble, misfire is a symptom of a mismatched CAS and ECU.

95-96 ECU = Use 95-96 CAS. Or DSMLink with Inverted CAS Enabled. Or DSMChip with Inverted CAS feature.

97-99 ECU = Use 97-99 CAS. Or 1G CAS.

Easiest way to test if this is the cause of your issues is to plug in a 97-99 ECU.

Also make sure your Base Timing is properly set to 5*.

 

[magik95]

Do you have a green top cas or black? I had the same problem untill I switched to a black top CAS.

 

[Talonious]

A 1G CAS install with the 95/96 ECU's involves switching pins in your ECU for your injectors, and also switching your plug wire order. I ran into this problem with my 95 EPROM ECU. It was running like crap.

http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf

 

[blowinsmoke95]

I had a 98 H8 ECU in my car until it took a dump on me, then I changed back to my 95EPROM. It did it on both ECUs.

What pins need to be swapped out and how hard are the connectors to de-pin without messing them up?

 

[gofer]

what pins need to be swapped out and how hard are the connectors to de-pin without messing them up???

Follow the HELPFUL link that Talonious posted for you, specifically page 8 (they aren't number so you'll have to count) shows you exactly what you need to do.

The connectors aren't hard to de-pin either, we've even got a sweet Tech Article: How To Remove/Replace Harness Connectors

 

[blowinsmoke95]

okay guys i will do this today. I really hope this fixes it because driving the car knowing its not up to par just pisses me off. Im just having a hard time understanding why these wires being backwards would cause an injector to lose power. Also, would a bad resistor box do the same thing. THANKS again

 

[jawar666]

Your best choice for getting rid of it is DSMLink...

In my personal experience...

I had luck using an Evo II Black Top CAS in a 95 EPROM ECU...

But, I haven't have any luck so far trying to fix the problem using a 1G Green Top CAS with a 96 Non EPROM ECU...

 

[silentscreamer]

I didnt have any luck with the wire swaps using a 1g green top CAS and my 96 ecu. the car wouldnt even rev past 2g and it shook like a blender. I put in my 98 ecu with the magnus harness and I didnt have anyproblems. I still find it wierd the wire swap sometime works and sometime doesnt.

 

[blowinsmoke95]

Swapped wires last night, no change. Any other suggestions?

 

[jawar666]

Just to double check...

Are you getting a CEL? (if so, it should be code P0300, which is a random misfire)

Are you using the 1G Green Top CAS?

Or are you using the Black Top CAS?

In my case, the Black Top CAS along with the 95 EPROM ECU fixed the problem in my GSX...

However I still have problems using a 96 Non EPROM ECU in my GST... It doesn't matter if I use the Green Top CAS or a Black Top CAS...

Last option will be DSMLink... which it has an option to tell the ECU not to "listen" for misfires...

And also...

Verify your CAS is not 180 degrees out...

 

[snowborder714]

Are you getting a CEL at all?

 

[blowinsmoke95]

Yes CEL, P0300.

Currently using a 95 EPROM w/green top CAS. I was using a green top CAS with 98 H8 ECU and even did it with that ECU.

Thinking about swapping to a black top CAS if i can find one reasonably cheap.

 

[snowborder714]

You have 3 solutions.

1. Do the pot mod listed in the document linked to in post #4.
2. Get ECMlink and disable the random misfire check.
3. You can also disable the check if you use CeddyMod, but I'm not positive on how to do this as I've never used the program.

A black top CAS won't always fix the CEL/stumbling.

 

[Talonious]

I currently have a 95-Eprom and you must:

1. Have a blacktop CAS (Hands down better.) It has a hall effect sensor, Hall effect sensor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

2. You need to save yourself time and buy a 1g in a 2g swap harness, it comes with new pigtails and detailed wiring.

3. Make sure to install your CAS pin correctly, make sure it's not 180* out.

4. Green: Pin 1 is now 14
Green w/ yellow stripe: Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Green w/ red stripe: Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Yellow w/ black stripe: Pin 14 is now Pin 15

5. Spark Plug wires are now 2341 (coils) 4321 (cylinder order) **important**

6. Plug everything in, dial the 1g cas in the middle of adjustment, then set your base timing to 5* BTDC with use of a grounding jumper and timing light.

7. If your car doesn't run right after that. Idk :/

 

[snowborder714]

^7. Can be solved using the 2 software options I listed.

 

[blowinsmoke95]

Going ecuflash as soon as I find a recently priced h8. Tired of chasing problems. My car needs a good tune anyways.