Resolved 2G - Question regarding testing a 97-99 CAS

[v8s_are_slow]

No spark on 1 and 4. Testing the cas and it varies between .11-4.99 volts when cranking. But while cranking, there's no rpm's until it actually starts and THEN the tach works as it should, while running on 2 cylinders. Would this still indicate a bad cas? They're not cheap so trying to make sure before forking out $100 on a part that doesn't fix the issue.

6 bolt in a 2g with Kiggly trigger plate/97-99 cas. M&W ignition with 300M coils. I've swapped out a few ptu's.

Pin 4 at ptu cut since I have the M&W so unsure of wires to check from put to coil-on plug setup. Thanks!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Aren't the 97-99 CAS sensors relatively cheap? I got one for under $30

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Maybe non-oem? Oem is close to $100 shipped to my door but wanna be sure before I throw any money at it at all. Get a cheap one then I'll be wondering if that's a good part or not and I've seen these cheap ones that are bad right out of the box.

 

[steve]

Just checking, you didn't cut off the engine speed connector A-59?

If you remove the CAS and rotate it by hand you should be able to see it switch states/voltages as the metal passes by the sensor.

 

[DSMPT]

Having a PTU in that setup may be the cause. Should try to wire it without the PTU.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Just checking, you didn't cut off the engine speed connector A-59?

If you remove the CAS and rotate it by hand you should be able to see it switch states/voltages as the metal passes by the sensor.

Only thing I cut was pin 4 at the ptu and wired in the M&W for pin 58 I believe. If there were no rpm's on the tach while cranking, wouldn't that point to a bad cas???

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Would the low voltage of 0.11 be considered below specs? I'm seeing in other post of it being around 0.4 so wasn't sure how detrimental that would be.

Having a PTU in that setup may be the cause. Should try to wire it without the PTU.

Definitely planning on it. Just want to rule out issues first so I can at least try and make it to the track in the next couple of weeks when it opens, if possible. Trying not to complicate things for myself too much. I've tried 3 different ptu's though. Not sure if that would still be an issue

 

[steve]

Only thing I cut was pin 4 at the ptu and wired in the M&W for pin 58 I believe. If there were no rpm's on the tach while cranking, wouldn't that point to a bad cas?

Nope, with what you have done the tach signal now comes from the M&W and that's an unknown at this point.

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Would the low voltage of 0.11 be considered below specs? I'm seeing in other post of it being around 0.4 so wasn't sure how detrimental that would be.

From the video it looks like it's working fine. The Cam Angle Sensor is switching from high to low and back as the metal fingers pass in front of the sensor. The nominal voltages are 5v and 0v but there is quite a bit of leeway involved so that noise and age don't cause miss-triggering.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Thanks. Guess I'm back to the drawing board and testing.

 

[steve]

I assume this ran before the M&W and 300M coils. That's what I'd be looking closely at. With the M&W installed pretty much all of your ignition is controlled by it.

Hiroshi posted a sample wiring, both he and SparkTech suggest (require) the M&W be connected directly to the ECU outputs instead of the PTU.

Are you using a M&W Pro-12 in wasted spark mode or a M&W Pro-14 Evo?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I assume this ran before the M&W and 300M coils. That's what I'd be looking closely at. With the M&W installed pretty much all of your ignition is controlled by it.

Hiroshi posted a sample wiring, both he and SparkTech suggest (require) the M&W be connected directly to the ECU outputs instead of the PTU.

Are you using a M&W Pro-12 in wasted spark mode or a M&W Pro-14 Evo?

Yes it was running. Had issues with getting the tach to work. Think I had a short in a wire so I bypassed that and then it was working again. Tried to take it out to dial in at wot and couldn't even get past 4k rpm where it would start breaking up. Then all of a sudden started running on 2 cylinders and nothing had changed mechanically or electronically.

I have the Pro-12 and about to pull the intake manifold and hard wire it but just know that other people have the same ignition setup as me without issues . Doesn't mean much I know.

 

[steve]

Yes it was running. Had issues with getting the tach to work. Think I had a short in a wire so I bypassed that and then it was working again. Tried to take it out to dial in at wot and couldn't even get past 4k rpm where it would start breaking up. Then all of a sudden started running on 2 cylinders and nothing had changed mechanically or electronically.

All that happened before you tried switching out the stock coils and PTU?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

So one of the injectors wasn't connected all the way. Hooked it back up and that one is good. Now just having issues with injector #4. Runs fine until I put in gear and then it starts missing. But thinking I can track it down from here at least. Probably a bad wire or something. I'll be digging into it but appreciate the help. Glad I didn't waste money on a cas I didn't need.

Worst case, at least if someone is looking at this thread, they'll know what it should be doing when checking for voltage. I just back probed the middle connector and attached the positive lead of my meter and negative lead to ground.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

So just a follow-up to this. After plugging in my one injector that was loose and still having cylinder 4 missing, I started testing and testing and testing. My noid light was lighting up, was getting spark on all cylinders, swapped injectors around, compression test, leak down (to make sure I wasn't getting water in the cylinder or something). All checked out good. I swapped the #3 and #4 300m coils for my coil-on plug setup and it followed from 4 to 3. So guess that's my issue. Pretty new setup, but heck, I've had every other new part be crap so why not this one???

But anyway, just have to figure out where to buy the coil and what car to look up that it goes on (because I have no idea) and then I HOPE I'm golden. Just thought someone might wanna know versus another one of those threads that just end without a resolution.

 

[CrackedDSM]

But anyway, just have to figure out where to buy the coil and what car to look up that it goes on (because I have no idea) and then I HOPE I'm golden. Just thought someone might wanna know versus another one of those threads that just end without a resolution.

You probably already found it, but they're off a '00 Chrysler 300m for the 90* bolt style. For the two bolts 180* apart it's off of a Dodge Intrepid of the same year. Both the V6 model.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Been working so haven't had time to look. This is what I have though. Assuming what I have is for the Intrepid from what you're referring to?

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[CrackedDSM]

Been working so haven't had time to look. This is what I have though. Assuming what I have is for the Intrepid from what you're referring to?

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No those are 300m coils. Sorry my description sucked. Lol. The intrepid coils are these ones. The bolts directly opposite each other.

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[v8s_are_slow]

Yeah, mine is the 300M. But at least now I know what to look for.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-95-96-97-99-wiring-schematics-ecu-pinouts-diagrams-tcu-diagrams-ect.528552/

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[CrackedDSM]

Yeah, mine is the 300M. But at least now I know what to look for.

Yeah. They’re supposedly better than the intrepid coils. I have no experience comparing the two though. Always used whichever I could find.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Replaced one of the coils yesterday and cleared up a good bit but now I have another bad one. Dunno if they were just making a bad batch when they made them for me or what. But it figures that it doesn't matter if I buy new or used, I always get crap parts. No matter how good of a quality I try and purchase. But I'm much closer than I was to getting to the track at least.

 

[steve]

Could be cheap coils or just that CDI ignitions are hard on them.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Not sure where they're getting them from but the dsm vendor I purchased them from doesn't usually sell cheap parts. But then again they're not the one making the product so I gave no idea

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Forgot that I never came back to follow up on this. But even after changing coils I was still having issues. I deleted the ptu out of the system, had injectors cleaned, etc etc. Everything I could think of. I've had ignition issues for years that I've been fighting where at 30+ boost levels it didn't wanna fire. After replacing 3 coils, the 4th one started missing as well. Even after deleting the ptu.

Finally I got to thinking about the cas because even though it tested okay, it was sent to me used. I replaced it and all ignition issues are now FINALLY gone. Guess it was an intermittent problem and would test fine. But give sporadic problems. Pain in my....

Anyway, just wanted to follow up. Appreciate the help though.