2G Manual starters

[GIB]

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I have a manual 4g63 AWD
Why are these starters different lengths?

The shorter one: M1T70483 12v 4Y11 70
The longer one: M1T74883 12V 8X07 ZC
Both are OEM I bought from people on here.

I believe the longer one just died on my car because when I try to start, I hear a high pitch winding noise?!
I've been having starting issues for weeks. We (me and remote tuner) have been going over the tune this weekend and it stops reading the RPM after cranking and hearing the high pitch winding sound.

 

[jdxnc]

Neither of those are the original starter I believe, it should be M172862D for a 2gb manual turbo.

There are a few variations from over the years as well as from the colt/elantra and other Siurrus family of cars. As long as it's a manual model and not and auto, it should work regardless. There's no difference between turbo FWD and AWD despite what some people think.

 

[GIB]

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Thanks. I only thought they were OEM because of these stickers on both of em. I need to find a real OEM one.
Do you think the lightweight flywheel could cause a starter to fail faster?

 

[jdxnc]

That is an OEM starter, just not the exact one.

 

[GIB]

Thanks. I looked further. Your part number helped clear this up:
Your part number found this: M172872D

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The shorter starter was this M1T70483

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The Longer Starter was for this: M1T70483

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I had the longer one installed and it just died on the car. It had issues engaging for a year.
I'm going to install the short, more correct one, and see how well it goes.

! If anyone has a real OEM one M172862D please reply.

 

[chrysler kid]

Not sure if it’s related, but yes my blue 2g Dsm had problems burning out starters with a fidanza flywheel. However I was using eBay starters for a manual transmission 93-99 Dsm and they were around $45 with no core fee and a 1 year warranty. If I recall correctly any 7 bolt manual transmission starter will work. The auto trans starters have a very different nose cone

I only say not sure if it’s related because I have also had issues specifically on my 98-99 cars with ignition switches failing.

 

[DogWhistle]

I only say not sure if it’s related because I have also had issues specifically on my 98-99 cars with ignition switches failing.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but please explain more about 98-99 ignition switches failing.

Our ‘99 has developed a weird habit of sometimes not powering up the fuel pump when starting. The switch has different circuits running through it so maybe the contacts for some of the circuits are worn.

What characteristics was yours exhibiting?

 

[GIB]

Not trying to hijack this thread, but please explain more about 98-99 ignition switches failing.

Our ‘99 has developed a weird habit of sometimes not powering up the fuel pump when starting. The switch has different circuits running through it so maybe the contacts for some of the circuits are worn.

What characteristics was yours exhibiting?

Go at it... It helps. I'd also like to know

 

[GIB]

Not sure if it’s related, but yes my blue 2g Dsm had problems burning out starters with a fidanza flywheel. However I was using eBay starters for a manual transmission 93-99 Dsm and they were around $45 with no core fee and a 1 year warranty. If I recall correctly any 7 bolt manual transmission starter will work. The auto trans starters have a very different nose cone

I only say not sure if it’s related because I have also had issues specifically on my 98-99 cars with ignition switches failing.

The teeth on the starter I took out were really worn down. The flywheel didn't look too bad.
I will update through the weekend how this goes.

 

[r3dmak]

I have a genuine mitsu starter, if you need any measurements i can try to dig it out as this picture was taken a while ago.

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[GIB]

I have a genuine mitsu starter, if you need any measurements i can try to dig it out as this picture was taken a while ago.

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Thank You for the picture. I just wondered if there were any new old stock laying around. No worries. I don't need any measurements, but happy to get the part number off your pic for ordering purposes.

 

[chrysler kid]

Not trying to hijack this thread, but please explain more about 98-99 ignition switches failing.

Our ‘99 has developed a weird habit of sometimes not powering up the fuel pump when starting. The switch has different circuits running through it so maybe the contacts for some of the circuits are worn.

What characteristics was yours exhibiting?

Similar problems, on the 98 the starter would only work occasionally. The started would sometimes click or do nothing. I would have to mess around and shake the column and it would work again. Or I would have to make sure that I pushed the key into the column as I was turning the key for it to work

The 99 I rebuilt had the same issue, I would have to push in the key as I turned it for the starter to work. This worked for about 3 months and then it didn’t, I replaced the starter and the starter worked fine for 6 months then failed and I got another new starter under warranty. This is the car that also had a light weight flywheel

On the 98 I simply installed a remote start alarm system and it never had problems again.

My 96 has never had this problem. The ignition key is tight in the cylinder and doesn’t have any wiggle to it.

This problem I had could have been from the 98 and 99 using “Home Depot” copied replacement keys because the original ones were lost or damaged.

Every single Dsm I have owned loves to eat the key in the hatch to open the trunk, so the original keys get bent or damaged if you try to open the hatch with the key. So my assumption is that the original keys get slightly bent or damaged while opening the trunk.

The fuel pump is only suppose to come on when cranking the starter, if you’re having problems with that situation the fuel pump relay is under the radio and you may want to remove the center console and test for 12v to and from the relay when cranking to see if it’s receiving power and sending power from the relay

 

[curt-s]

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Thanks. I only thought they were OEM because of these stickers on both of em. I need to find a real OEM one.
Do you think the lightweight flywheel could cause a starter to fail faster?

Bench test it. Put it in a box (because it will jump around if it does decide to work), give it 12V from a battery, and test the solenoid.