20G-6SL2 Street/Strip Turbocharger

[chavez408]

Forced Performance: DSM 20G-6SL2 Street/Strip Turbocharger
Is this new? I didn't see it before on their page. It looks great! Maybe I should pick this guy up instead of the buschur 20g.

 

[Afroclipse]

search sir search, yes its new.

 

[chavez408]

...search what?
I was just informing most of the guys here that FP's 20g turbo was out. Since most of us were so curious about the specs and price.
Continuing from our last thread open about this turbo. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/281444-fp-20g-6sl2.html

 

[turboglenn]

I wish i had never went t3/4 hybrid at this point. What a 20g offers and does is perfect for me being that 99.5% of my car's life is spent on the street at less than WOT. But now i'd have to step backwards and get a mitsu style mani, 02 housing and build a new DP.

Does anyone make some weird hybrid that's a 20g compressor mated with a t3 turbine? I doubt it since most of the hybrids are garrett compressors with mitsu turbines. but i guess it never hurts to ask!

 

[Steve93Talon]

Does anyone make some weird hybrid that's a 20g compressor mated with a t3 turbine? I doubt it since most of the hybrids are garrett compressors with mitsu turbines. but i guess it never hurts to ask!

Hahn's "super20g" uses a 10cm Mitsu hotside that has a T3 flange, but it's known to be laggier than a standard 20g.

 

[chavez408]

I don't think so?
Man, I can't wait to see some numbers on this thing. You have the option to go internal as well!

 

[turboglenn]

Hahn's "super20g" uses a 10cm Mitsu hotside that has a T3 flange, but it's known to be laggier than a standard 20g.

Thansk for the info, but after looking at some prices this morning i can only say,

OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As for the 10cm3 hot side? What's does a full spool of ~24 lbs take to make on one fo them?

One thing i've noticed is turbos have gotten expensive over the years. You can buy a standard T3/4 hybrid for around 750 bucks brand new from regular turbo shops. But all the ones that are sold by these "performance shops" have jacked up pricing. I paid 435 for a brand new T3 for my girls car, my t3/4 i got as a discount because i built it at my aprenticeship, but still only listed for 725.. All these mitsu turbos are just whacked out pricey....a grand for a 20g is way out of line in my book, but as long as people keep giving these places money they will continue to rape us on pricing *disgruntled*


Maybe it's time i start an online performance shop, drop ship turbos from a rebuild supply house and get rich with the rest of them

 

[Steve93Talon]

You could always bolt a mitsu flanged 20g to your T3 manifold with an adapter plate.

Automoto Sports Copyright&copy AMS 2006

 

[chavez408]

I second that turbo prices are getting out of hand. It seems like you can't buy a decent turbo that gives you great power without dumping 1k for it not including lines, gaskets, ect.
Atleast someone is getting rich.

 

[dsm-onster]

I wish i had never went t3/4 hybrid at this point. What a 20g offers and does is perfect for me being that 99.5% of my car's life is spent on the street at less than WOT. But now i'd have to step backwards and get a mitsu style mani, 02 housing and build a new DP.

Does anyone make some weird hybrid that's a 20g compressor mated with a t3 turbine? I doubt it since most of the hybrids are garrett compressors with mitsu turbines. but i guess it never hurts to ask!

The 8cm^2 turbine housing found on stock 17c sy/ty trucks has a td06 footprint. T3 flanged inlet . Internally gated, too. The regular td06 turbine and an 8cm^2 turbine housing would be a nasty street/strip setup. If you have a tubular header, then spool should be just fine for the street. Yoou can likely pick up a bown cy/ty tdo6 17c cheaper than buying the new housing. You probably can have the compressor wheel upgraded tothe 20g compressor wheel along with the for cheaper than a new 20g and adapter. After all, a 20g uses the 17c compressor cover.

I don't know the specs for the td06sl. But if the inducer/exducer is the same or the inducer is possibly bigger, then the cy/ty housing could possibly be machined to fit the sl wheel if you don't want the td06 wheel.

You can get a stainless .55 a/r BEP housing with a t3 flange . . . I don't know if they offer the td06 footprint like they used to for their old discontinued iron housings. That would be a quicker spooling turbine housing than an 8cm cy/ty housing.

 

[turboglenn]

The 8cm^2 turbine housing found on stock 17c sy/ty trucks has a td06 footprint. T3 flanged inlet . Internally gated, too. The regular td06 turbine and an 8cm^2 turbine housing would be a nasty street/strip setup. If you have a tubular header, then spool should be just fine for the street. Yoou can likely pick up a bown cy/ty tdo6 17c cheaper than buying the new housing. You probably can have the compressor wheel upgraded tothe 20g compressor wheel along with the for cheaper than a new 20g and adapter. After all, a 20g uses the 17c compressor cover.

I don't know the specs for the td06sl. But if the inducer/exducer is the same or the inducer is possibly bigger, then the cy/ty housing could possibly be machined to fit the sl wheel if you don't want the td06 wheel.

You can get a stainless .55 a/r BEP housing with a t3 flange . . . I don't know if they offer the td06 footprint like they used to for their old discontinued iron housings. That would be a quicker spooling turbine housing than an 8cm cy/ty housing.

Great info, thanks! I like the sound of that last one. After building road course posrshes for a few years i'm so sick of having a lagging turbo just to feel some what similar of a pull as our track cars do. Most of them are running things like to4e 60 trims with a t3 .48 ar with a stage I or II wheel for afast spool at the cost of very top end power. But hell they still do 150 on the back straight! So now i'm lookinmg for the cheapest way to get the fastest spooling turbo that would max out just under or at 500 hp at the crank.

Any other ideas on something that fits that bill with a t3 turbine are welcome!

 

[2gGSX]

GT2876RS maybe? A white car from Cali was making 400 whp on an AWD with his IIRC.

 

[turboglenn]

What is this "IIRC"? I keep seeing it on this board and it's not listed in any of the acronym threads i've found when searching.

 

[2gGSX]

If I recall correctly.

 

[turboglenn]

If I recall correctly.

Thanks , I'm not totally 'net literate on a lot of the acronyms used. The bad part is i moderate 2 other boards and just guess at what half of it means anymore between text lingo and 'net slang :

 

[dsm-onster]

Great info, thanks! I like the sound of that last one. After building road course posrshes for a few years i'm so sick of having a lagging turbo just to feel some what similar of a pull as our track cars do. Most of them are running things like to4e 60 trims with a t3 .48 ar with a stage I or II wheel for afast spool at the cost of very top end power. But hell they still do 150 on the back straight! So now i'm lookinmg for the cheapest way to get the fastest spooling turbo that would max out just under or at 500 hp at the crank.

Any other ideas on something that fits that bill with a t3 turbine are welcome!

Hx35 in a .55 bep housing spools as quick as a 20g td06 in a 7cm MHI housing. And there's 52 lbs/min in the compressor. Guys have pushed them to 500whp on a dsm. The oil return line is identical to a garrett. You'll have to fab up a feed line. You can get a used hx35 for $300-400 or the h1c for half that but with a little less flow potential and even quicker spool. My h1c spools to 20+ psi by 3500 rpms in third with an evo 3 exhaust manifold and 272 duration cams. Your 264/272 combo would be great!

That's about the cheapest for that kind of goal. I don't think the "disco potato" (gt28rs) is a cheap turbo. Gobs of street fun though .

 

[turboglenn]

Hx35 in a .55 bep housing spools as quick as a 20g td06 in a 7cm MHI housing. And there's 52 lbs/min in the compressor. Guys have pushed them to 500whp on a dsm. The oil return line is identical to a garrett. You'll have to fab up a feed line. You can get a used hx35 for $300-400 or the h1c for half that but with a little less flow potential and even quicker spool. My h1c spools to 20+ psi by 3500 rpms in third with an evo 3 exhaust manifold.

That's about the cheapest for that kind of goal. I don't think the "disco potato" (gt28rs) is a cheap turbo. Gobs of street fun though .

WOW, that's sounds like it's right up my alley. If i could have annywhere near 20psi before 4000RPM i'd be in heaven with getting that extra 1000 rpm of torque curve back.

One thing though, isn't the holset hx35/40 series the one's that keep breaking shafts or blowing seals?

From my searches on google i keep finding bad info about the H1c, just things like slow spool (one guy reported 9psi by 4500RPM WTF?? ) Honestly i've been garrett fed on everything i work on (well save for some KKK,IHI units ) so i'm out of the loop on mitsu specific combos that are being built these days.

I could give up some more top end flow for faster spool easily. I tell you one thing, i miss the midrange pull of a B16G, but hate how they choke out in the top. That's where the garrett has made me happy for years. But as i get older and my driving habbits change, so do my needs and desires on spool times and "realistic power goals" I'd be in hog heaven to just have 425 on pump gas at around 25 psi, and then able to crack just over 450 to the wheels if i had to max it out. THat's all i really want, that's why i stated the 500 only needed to be at the crank instead of wheels.

This is all great info, and though i'm not the OP, i'm hoping that all this good info is helping him as well. I'm just jumping in with what i am dealing with and want since it should kinda of apply to the original topic.

 

[chavez408]

Iv never heard much about that turbo matt. Link?

 

[dsm-onster]

I don't know how fast the 20g td06sl spools. It may spool quicker than an hx35 in a bep housing. The 18g td06sl seams to spool fairly quick. That turbo seams to be a great circuit turbo with decent flow.

The turbine determines the shaft used on all turbos. The hx35/40 hybrid uses the hx35 turbine. So it has the better bearing section. It seams that it's a hit and miss with the hx40s blowing up. By far, most seam to be fine pushed very hard. Nevertheless, the 40 turbine wheel is far too big for your goals.

Where ever you heard the h1c is laggy is misinformation or perhaps someone who was using the stock turbine housing with a non-divided-runner header. Go on over to the holset threads and take a look. What's not it the thread. There are two h1c's. You want the one from the intercooled early 90's dodge pickup. The non-intercooled version is very small. Too small for your goal. Th hx35 is proven! the big h1c is not however. But it still has a 54mm compressor inducer .

Ill be happy to answer any more questions for you if I can over pm.

Chavez. The h1c is the turbo I put up a log of on the latest holset thread . Blew my headgasket (maf overrun) so I only have a good 5200rpm run to show for it now. Similar to an hx35, but likely flows a little less. Like a 20g.

I think the 20g compressor wheel is, for a lack of a better word, glorious. But does the 06sl wheel flow enough for it? That's the question I have. I think it's a waste to have a compressor wheel that is large enough to out flow the turbine. However miniscule, it's unnecessary lag. Any properly chosen intercooler setup can counter any inefficiency of a slightly smaller wheel.

 

[Afroclipse]

What is this "IIRC"? I keep seeing it on this board and it's not listed in any of the acronym threads i've found when searching.

I'm still stuck on FTW and nobody wants to tell

 

[dsm-onster]

For the world? FTMFW. . . I suppose is another

 

[demografik]

it's For The Win

 

[Black_Bullet]

Blew my headgasket (maf overrun)

You need a knock light/ buzzer.
Saved my engine plenty of times.

For the world? FTMFW. . . I suppose is another

Its 2008, You farts have to keep up with the lingo nahmean .

 

[dsm-onster]

I have dsmlink with the ability to log knock retard. And, I have a 1g. So my scanmaster displays knock count for me live. I have a terrible phantom knock problem. So I disabled my knock sensor via dsmlink for anything under 4500rpms. I heard the knock. I couldn't get out of it in time.

 

[Black_Bullet]

I have dsmlink with the ability to log knock retard. And, I have a 1g. So my scanmaster displays knock count for me live. I have a terrible phantom knock problem. So I disabled my knock sensor via dsmlink for anything under 4500rpms. I heard the knock. I couldn't get out of it in time.

Damn sorry to hear that. You audiably heard the engine knocking? Ive never heard that until a rod was thrown.
How were you overrunning your maft under 4500 rpms?

I disabled knock sensor to 3500 rpms; and im not ever WOT under 3500.
Matter fact i just posted in a thread about how i fixed all my phantom knock a lil while ago.

Yea so far i like the knock buzzer the most out of all the tricks of detecting knock.
The CEL light is only good if your car never has a CEL, and a knock light, or even your scanmaster is only truely reliable imo if you glance around at things when doing a WOT run. I wouldnt even rely on my Logger alone,
just because it can display the knock so you know how to retune for the next run doesnt mean the knock already registered didnt do damage.

My buzzer goes off pretty loud; set to alarm if i hit 10counts and above. I can hear it over my exhaust and radio so theres no mistake of me not hearing it. Has proven reliable thru several track/ and tuning situations.

The knock buzzer is pretty solid in helping you detect knock when your not looking for it.
I.e. cruising around, being careless and not paying attention to anything, and in your case even under 4500 rpms on a regular day when your not looking for detonation the buzzer will let you know.
I wont leave home without mines after knowing what i know now...