Budget90GST
15+ Year Contributor
- 196
- 22
- Sep 23, 2004
-
Anaheim,
California
Just make sure all the metal shavings are cleaned out if you go this route. You wouldn't want these in your engine or turbo. Goodluck.
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Just make sure all the metal shavings are cleaned out if you go this route. You wouldn't want these in your engine or turbo. Goodluck.
yeah but i need to know what size the revised lifters are the holes at least.... anyone..?
see the thing is that my bro works on CNC (computer numeric control) machines.. he would drill them for me.. the Hass mill is accurate till like 0.0005 or so
see there is a prob with that knock, it retards the timing.. right?
but if i can't do nothing oh.. well..
by the way.. i just received new injectors today.. i got 680s and i just thought....are they too big for stock ecu.. my AFC will control them fine, but won't the timing be of..?
At the bottom of the page here http://www.vfaq.com/mods/lifters.html is a description of the different revisions of the lifters. I would agree with ultimatedsm in that you should not just drill out your existing lifters - you're asking for trouble here.A new set can be had on eBay for roughly $100.
As for your new injectors, they are rated at 680 cc but tend to flow more like 650's because they are rated at a higher fuel pressure than that of a DSM. Your SAFC will be able to compensate for them - baseline correction at 650 cc is approx. -31% - but altering the airflow signal this much will put you on a lower map with correspondingly higher timing. This is the difficulty in tuning with piggybacks like the SAFC. Typically, this results in knock, which you already have plenty of...
You've got a lot of knock through a wide range of rpm's - some of it likely real & some likely phantom knock. You'd do well to try 1 thing at a time to isolate/eliminate the causes. In 1 of your replies you said you turned down the boost & the car runs fine. If you're at a boost level where you've got no knock in any rpm, gradually raise it until you start to get some knock, then determine it that is real or phantom & work up from there.
The knock sensor for a DSM engine is nothing more than a microphone. It picks up engine noise - all of it. There is no signal processing or filtering.
the ECU only 'listens' for knock in certain portions of the engine cycle.
A log of you free-revving the car will tell us nothing, the car has to be under load during the log, preferably in 3rd gear. I believe the knock sensor looks for the pinging sound that knock makes. Which is why phantom knock can occur by random things in your engine bay rattling, vibrating and making noise.
When the fuel pre-ignites before the spark goes off, the pressure spike in the cylinder shakes the block and the voltage signal produced by the knock sensor is seen by the ECU as knock. Any vibration can cause the sensor to produce a voltage so any knock seen when not under load is usually not actually pre-ignition.The knock sensor is a peizoelectric crystal that produces a voltage when it is deflected. Sound is vibration, haven't you heard that atmosphere track?When the fuel pre-ignites before the spark goes off, the pressure spike in the cylinder shakes the block and the voltage signal produced by the knock sensor is seen by the ECU as knock. Any vibration can cause the sensor to produce a voltage so any knock seen when not under load is usually not actually pre-ignition.
)i hope you dont have a cracked manifold causing phamtom knock (yes,weve seen everything on this board)
do a timing belt job recently? is your oil pump balance shaft off? ( 360 off) ?? thazt would cause a nasty vibration at 2700 -3700 rpms .. causing phantom knock ..like on your log..
look into it.
i think it was 20 or 23 ... i'm not talking about the knock above 3000 rpm i'm talking about the knock below 3000
the prob with torque wrench is that i cann't get there with it...
KeltonDSMer said:The knock sensor is a peizoelectric crystal that produces a voltage when it is deflected. Sound is vibration, haven't you heard that atmosphere track? When the fuel pre-ignites before the spark goes off, the pressure spike in the cylinder shakes the block and the voltage signal produced by the knock sensor is seen by the ECU as knock. Any vibration can cause the sensor to produce a voltage so any knock seen when not under load is usually not actually pre-ignition.
If you ever get in the weight reduction/ engine bay clean up market, by removing the a/c compressor youll be able to reach the knock sensor a lot easier .
And I agree with ultimatedsm about turning the boost down to 15lbs and no more than that until you get bigger injecs. You guys are asking for trouble just to go a little faster. Wait till you get the inj and I suppose at least a safc to start running that amount of boost, but in the mean time theres still other ways to make the car faster without turning up boost in the terms of intercooler/ porting/ head work/ motormount-suspension upgrades/ weight reductions.
youll be running way to lean, and ## going to get det guarenteed,you need to geta a fpr to bring you to 15lbs safetly, minium
youll be running way to lean, and ## going to get det guarenteed,you need to geta a fpr to bring you to 15lbs safetly, minium
well I tried to get rid of the phantom knock and failed.. I'm thinking of taking the knock sensor out and just closing the circuit... hell when tunning newer cars ppl don't look for knock the look at AFR and power.. and that's what I'll do... I got Meth injection.. front mount ... that should take care of the knock..
Not a good idea at all. If you go that route I can almost guarantee you will be back here with a thread soon "Help I think I blew my motor". And no they dont just tune for a/f and power, they do take knock into consideration, its a necessity if you want a safe tune. You are horribly mis-informed.