2.3L stroker, SC5031 BB turbo, which cams to run????

[rabenne]

My setup is all listed in my profile. I am interested in making around 450 WHP. I am debating between hks 264/272 combo, and hks 272 combo. I dont know very much about other companies out there producing cams, and I am open to suggestions. I dont want to rev past 7 in my stroker, so I need a cam that will flow low end, and upto 7000rpm. Any suggestions appritiated. Thanks

 

[delta448]

Strokers usually respond better than a 2.0 to a little bigger cam at a lower rpm. I think I'd personally run 272/272, but I would consider 280/280 or something in between. I think there is a cam manufaturer, although I'm not sure who, that makes some slightly different durations like 268's and 276's, don't know if they are as well-made though. Are you keeping the stock springs or upgrading? FP has some pretty nice cams...

 

[rabenne]

I was planning on running stock springs

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

i myself was lookin into some 280s to run w/ my 2.3 setup im building near the end of this year during my leave from iraq and than finishing when i get done with this hell hole.. but im intersted to get other opinions also!

 

[delta448]

Comp Cams 101200, they have the same duration at 0.050 lift as most 272 advertised duration cams but have slightly more lift than HKS's 272s, and are far cheaper.

 

[rabenne]

Do you mean actual lift? Actual lift is measured at .050". Advertised is measured at .005"-008" lift. The difference is that advertised duration doesnt fairly represent the flow characteristics. The air flow when the valve is at .005" lift, there isnt really a measurable amount of flow (using a flow bench anyhow). It does however add quite a few degrees of crank rotation to the cams "duration" Which makes it sound bigger and better

 

[delta448]

Right. Just one of those marketing ideas that someone thought sounded better.

I actually meant max lift is more on the Comp cams.

Comp:
Intake max lift = 0.411"
Exhaust max lift = 0.395"

HKS:
Intake max lift = 0.405"
Exhaust max lift = 0.386"

The duration at 0.050 for the Comp cams is listed as 212 degrees for both intake and exhaust, which is just about the same as most other cam manufacturers 272 advertised cams. Comp measures theirs a little different for advertising purposes and theirs are advertised as 259i/258e, which is a little more accurate IMO, although I don't know what lift value those more reasonable measurements are made at.

 

[JWoodley]

The FP3xs are an option if you upgrade springs/retainers. I'd recommend the 272s or equivalent.

 

[Mindslayer]

I'm running fp2 with my 2.3L and SCM60

 

[1320i]

Has anyone looked into or has anyone run the Crower cams? They have a 272/272, 280/280, and 288/288. I was looking at the 280/280 or 288/288 for the build I am getting ready to do. I am looking to build a car that is 600 whp that will be run on the strip 90% of the time.

http://www.crower.com/cat/import/mitsu/cams/camshafts.shtml

 

[wortdog]

I have the 288/288 Crower cams, they like to idle around 1200-1300 rpm on my 2.3. They make great power up to about 8700rpm, but they're starting to run out of steam by 9k.

If you can find a set in stock, the Brian Crower 280/280 cams are fairly similar to the Crower 288/288 at a much lower price.

 

[dsm-onster]

If If you want to run stock springs, then I recommend running fp2s w/ an intake cam adjustable gear advanced around 3 degrees. This will put you dead nuts w/ the duration, overlap, and centerline degree, AND peak lift of the FP3s. FP3s are cut w/ the stroker in mind.

Of course, you wouldn't have the same ramp rate as the fp3s, but this would save you a little change. A $100 cam gear is less than 1/3 the cost of decent dual springs.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I recommend the 2.3's for the strokers. Been running them for over a year and car has always idled like stock with no adjustments from OEM. Beautiful cams and I would recommend them to EVERYONE running a stroker.

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

I Myself Have Decided To Go With Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams (which If Im Correct Are 272's).... Had Been Told That 280s Would Be A Little To Much For A Street/strip Kinda Car Being Automatic? Are They Full Of Themselves Or ?

 

[norice4me]

i just got everything done in my car im use the dks2's very good i like them alot

 

[dsm-onster]

I have the 288/288 Crower cams, they like to idle around 1200-1300 rpm on my 2.3. They make great power up to about 8700rpm, but they're starting to run out of steam by 9k.

If you can find a set in stock, the Brian Crower 280/280 cams are fairly similar to the Crower 288/288 at a much lower price.

NO! you're running out of steam because of your TINY evo3 16g!

9K w/ good flowing cams will flatten (literally, in the power band) 99% of the turbos run on this forum. My 212 duration @ 0.05" lift FP2Xs still pull plenty hard at 9000+ rpms. I, of course, have a turbo that will keep supplying the airflow.
_______

rabenne, I really wouldn't mess w/ HKS. They are jsut too expensive for what you get. There are so many cams out there w/ decent duration for strokers setups and run more lift and OVERLAP yielding MUCH better results for strokers.

Wanting to run stock springs suggests budget constraints. which we all have . HKSshould be your last choice then. A good lift cam that overlaps more than a *typical* 2.0L performance cam is what you're after for power under 7K.

ALSO, a higher displacement engine can get away w/ much more duration and still idle well and be "streetable". So getting a 212+ degree duration cam (@0.50" lift) would do nothing but help high end and your low end would NOT be diminished as significantly if had a 2.0L motor. Considering what you're after, picking a cam w/ *good* overlap and lift is ideal.

What cams are cut for strokers? Those are all your BEST choices. If you don't want to buy springs, then I've already mentioned a way out.

 

[delta448]

^^Very good advice there. I agree 100%.

 

[wortdog]

NO! you're running out of steam because of your TINY evo3 16g!

9K w/ good flowing cams will flatten (literally, in the power band) 99% of the turbos run on this forum. My 212 duration @ 0.05" lift FP2Xs still pull plenty hard at 9000+ rpms. I, of course, have a turbo that will keep supplying the airflow.

Well, they pull past 9k, but they make the most power around 8500 or so. I've been shifting the 1-2 at 9500. The head I'm currently running doesn't have a whole lot of work done to it. I wanted to sort out my turbo setup before playing with the expensive head.

And my turbo setup may flow more air than you're thinking, because I actually have a sequential-parallel twin EVO3 turbo setup Needless to say, my car profile is a bit out of date.

 

[mygsx2120]

Sorry if this makes the thread go off topic, but WORTDOG could you enlighten my on a sequential 16g setup. Possible start a new thread or send me a PM.

Also to the OP, I would agree with staying away from HKS cams. They are too expensive. Also, if you are on a tight budget, you might want to look in the classifieds for a used set. It seems like there are people selling cams often for really good prices. I have built half my car with used parts from the classifieds.

 

[wortdog]

I made a crucial design error that resulted in the second turbo surging badly between 5-7k, so I'm not quite ready to post up about it. To put it very briefly(and try not to threadjack too much), the second turbo is fed exhaust from a pair of 60mm wastegates on the exhaust manifold. There's a one-way valve in the piping between the secondary compressor outlet and the intake manifold which prevents the primary turbo's boost from just leaking out of the secondary turbo's compressor inlet. It's this valve causing all my trouble, as its forcing the secondary turbo way into the surge area on the map as it tries to build boost without flowing very much air. Around 7k the surging becomes violent enough to build enough pressure to open the one-way valve, and the system finally transitions into parallel mode. Right now I'm looking for a valve I can control electronically and eliminate the nasty compressor surging.

And to the OP, Matt's advice is very sound.

 

[funguy]

i am running 101300 comp stroker cams on my 2.3l not too lumpy, idles really nicely at 950 pulling 15inHg. look it up.

all i need now is to get my shep trans and install my snow perfomance injection. almost done almost done.

 

[dsm-onster]

I made a crucial design error that resulted in the second turbo surging badly between 5-7k, so I'm not quite ready to post up about it. To put it very briefly(and try not to threadjack too much), the second turbo is fed exhaust from a pair of 60mm wastegates on the exhaust manifold. There's a one-way valve in the piping between the secondary compressor outlet and the intake manifold which prevents the primary turbo's boost from just leaking out of the secondary turbo's compressor inlet. It's this valve causing all my trouble, as its forcing the secondary turbo way into the surge area on the map as it tries to build boost without flowing very much air. Around 7k the surging becomes violent enough to build enough pressure to open the one-way valve, and the system finally transitions into parallel mode. Right now I'm looking for a valve I can control electronically and eliminate the nasty compressor surging.

And to the OP, Matt's advice is very sound.

Even if you don't get it worked out, just open a thread about it! Maybe you can get a suggestion or two about a fix for this problem. I REALLY want to know more about your setup! Sounds fantastic! Let's see. you can get an evo3 16G for say $500 and one flows enough for around 400 hp. So 800 hp potential for $1000

What's your cam card on your 288 crowers saying? Where's the 0.05" duration? I thought these cams were delivering plenty up top for guys around here. Stock diameter valves are likely corking you up pretty tightly.

When I saw in your profile that you're muffing w/ tuner pro R/T, I just knew you're not run of the mill. Please keep us informed.

 

[wortdog]

I completely forgot that my cams are the original 64415's, which after consulting the cam card are advertised as 292/288, but the .050 is only 214/206, with a rather crazy valve lift spec of .450 intake and .4335 exhaust. The ramp rate is also very conservative, even compared to non "FPXx" cams. Basically the exhaust cam is a high-lift version of the 264 with a touch more duration, while the intake cam isn't too far off from what it should be for 9k+ operation. I get the feeling this may be one reason the engine is laying off a bit after 8700rpm.

The newer 64415-2 288/288 combo is more inline with other current cams, 0.050 is 218/216 with lifts of 0.425 and 0.416.

I got them used for a very cheap price, so I can live with the drawbacks of the older cam.

 

[JOEY A]

I would like to add, if you call up comp or cower

THEY WILL CUSTOM CUT CAMS TO YOUR SETUP for not much more...


This is the best way to go in my eyes

 

[marcell6492002]

So, which on is better out of the FP2's or the Comp's?