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2.3L High Rev Turbo Recommendation??

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JayRolla

15+ Year Contributor
5,629
34
Feb 23, 2006
Colorado Spring, Colorado
My buddy is having a 7 bolt stroker built for his 91 GVR4 and we are wondering what would be a good 650whp turbo on race gas or ethonol. He wants something that will make power up to 8000-9000rpm. Im not sure what rpm's the head can handle. He is also staying with the mitsu mani.

Specs.
7 Bolt 4g63t, 4G64 crank
Eagle Rods
Wiseco Pistons
Ported head, stainless valves, crower springs/retainers, FFWD 280/280 cams
Full race tranny with devo tuning/quatermaster twin disc clutch and flywheel
dsmlink
1000cc-1600cc injectors
FMIC/ meth injection or e85 fuel
 
That sounds like a nice setup!

I would reccomend the 4088R from my experience with it. That should do 650whp no problem. Otherwise the 4094R will have more future potential when he gets bored with "only" 650whp. :thumb:

I would definitely go with the 1600cc injectors if he thinks about running meth or E85. It will be less expensive in the long run.
 
By mitsu mani, do you mean exhaust mani? If so it looks like a fp3575 is your only option.
 
If he wants to rev to 8500-9000 he needs to look at something other than a bolt on housing. The FP housings are better then all the others but the others like the SCM6152 the exhaust housing is too small to keep up flow that high, it will start choking. I have heard that the FP turbos have a bigger housing so I would say of you are dead set on running a bolt on housing and revving high the FP line will be the only thing that might get you close to where you want to go.
 
i didnt think reving to 8-9k on a stroker was a good idea.. who's doing the build? jack?
 
If he's going to spend all the money for the items listed why stick with the stock manifold? Just get a t3 or t4 and be done with it. The 280 cams work great for 8-9k on a 2.0 but on a 2.3 he may want to go bigger like the fp3x, fp4, 288's.

You can rev the 100mm crank to 8-9k but reliabilty will suffer. Yes there are people doing it but they will never get as many miles from there motors.
 
Who builds a race motor and expects it to last 100k miles... rev the piss out of it and put tagather another one for a spare... LOL. I have a 2.0 and I am building another for a spare just because I know I beat on it and dont expect it to last forever.

The BC 280's have almost the same spec as the Crower 288's (415's)

If you compare the specs on BC 280's and Crower 280's (414's) they are very differant
 
There's no need to build a motor like that and restrict your power options to mitsu bolt on housings. That doesn't make a whole lot of sense. But moving right along, it's doubtful you will see 650 to the wheels with the 60-1 without a T4 turbine, 3575 is the only thing that seems reasonable to me with what you are willing to work with.
 
The motor is built, head is built so he can change any parts. He is using a 14b to break the motor in.

He already has a very nice cast manifold with a mitsu flange. He has spent so much money he is running short so he doesnt want to spend more money on a manifold.

i didnt think reving to 8-9k on a stroker was a good idea.. who's doing the build? jack?

He is most likely going to be spinning it to 8k at max. I did talk to Jack and he said he would go above 8k to much.

I found a guy selling a FP3575, 40mm tial WG, 2g ported mani, and custom 02 housing for $1600. All parts have 3500 miles. Very good guy and well known here. He wants to make at least 600whp. Sound like a good deal?
 
Sounds like an excellent deal. I'd jump on it. The 2g manifold can be sold as well, obviously, to recoup some of the cost. The 3575 will happily make 600whp.
 
Crank wont bust, my mechanic has ran tons of runs on these 7 bolts without breaking it. If it does he offers warranty work and lifetime warranty agaist crank walk.

After talking with the builder he said with the 3575 full power would be around 8k and that bigger cams would be maybe needed for the higher revving. Not to mention the eagle rods might not take it with the extra stroke.
 
I rev my eagle rods to 10.5k rpms.
The main problem with reving a stroker past 8k is getting it to breath.
 
I rev my eagle rods to 10.5k rpms.
The main problem with reving a stroker past 8k is getting it to breath.

Thats hella tight. I bet your FP1's, stock intake manifold and 16g serve you well up there. Oh wait, looking at your dyno sheet you peek power is at 5500 rpms..........no matter 10,500 rpms is hella tight!
 
Blah, Blah, Blah... there are alot of people revving there strokers way past 8K, its all good!
My redline is 8250 on mine, only because i think the rev-hard mani os choking me up top. I make peak power around 7-7400 (500whp) and am making 480whp at 8k (pump gas). Th ebolt ons will not flow well wnough to rev to 8-9k. I run the .68 t4.
 
Well we found a good deal on FP3575, 40mm WG, custom o2, and port matched 2g mani. He said he ran about 40psi on it without dropping boost. 3500 miles. So hopefully this will atleast get him to 8k.
 
It doesn't really matter when you get there, it's all about who's got the broadest power band. Basically that will be defined by your cams initially, then complimented by your intake manifold, and then just try to get your turbo to kick on right at the beginning of their efficiencies. Your exhaust mani is not as critical but a nice cast or preferably a tubular will help.

2g is generally not regarded as a nicer cast.


Point of this post is, 650 at 6k and 650 at 10.5k is still the same thing. 650hp. Just try to build on area under the curve as best as possible.
 
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