DarthBulk
20+ Year Contributor
- 648
- 15
- Jun 11, 2003
-
Genesee Depot,
Wisconsin
My clutch will not disengage. I have a brand new ACT 2600 and ACT Streetlite flywheel. Here is the short version of what I have tried already.
Fully rebuilt my clutch pedal assembly. See the thread here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196048
Brand new master and slave cylinders
Brand new clutch fork pivot ball
Brand new braided SS clutch line
Bled the clutch system correctly (trust me). Clutch would not disengage
When it wouldn't disengage, I tried shimming the pivot ball with 2 washers. Now the end of my clutch fork leans to the driver's side correctly like in the RRE diagram.
Clutch still wouldn't disengage, so I tried the longer slave cylinder rod. Still didn't work.
Today I took out my master cylinder, cut the rod and welded in another 1/2 inch of rod so I would have more adjustment. Adjusted this all the way out (in small steps), and clutch STILL will not disengage.
To be honest, I never checked the step height on the flywheel, because I assumed that ACT knew what they were doing when they machined this brand new flywheel. Am I right to make that assumption?
When I adjust the rod under the dash on the master cylinder out of the clevis, I get resistance in the clutch pedal farther and farther up. I can adjust it so that I feel resistance right near the top, and I feel resistance in it all the way to the floor. I never feel a change in this resistance...it just feels heavy all the way to the floor. If I adjust the rod the other way, all it does is give me more and more free play at the top before I feel the resistance.
Now I am at a loss. What else can I possibly do? I am sick of planting my head under the dash, removing the transmission, etc. This is killing me. I have my car running with a slightly modified AEM EMS basemap now, and I want to get it on the road and do some tuning! If I can't think of something else to try, I am going to have the car towed to a shop and let them figure it out (I can't believe I said that, after doing my entire build up to this point by myself). I am in dire need of suggestions.
Fully rebuilt my clutch pedal assembly. See the thread here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196048
Brand new master and slave cylinders
Brand new clutch fork pivot ball
Brand new braided SS clutch line
Bled the clutch system correctly (trust me). Clutch would not disengage
When it wouldn't disengage, I tried shimming the pivot ball with 2 washers. Now the end of my clutch fork leans to the driver's side correctly like in the RRE diagram.
Clutch still wouldn't disengage, so I tried the longer slave cylinder rod. Still didn't work.
Today I took out my master cylinder, cut the rod and welded in another 1/2 inch of rod so I would have more adjustment. Adjusted this all the way out (in small steps), and clutch STILL will not disengage.
To be honest, I never checked the step height on the flywheel, because I assumed that ACT knew what they were doing when they machined this brand new flywheel. Am I right to make that assumption?
When I adjust the rod under the dash on the master cylinder out of the clevis, I get resistance in the clutch pedal farther and farther up. I can adjust it so that I feel resistance right near the top, and I feel resistance in it all the way to the floor. I never feel a change in this resistance...it just feels heavy all the way to the floor. If I adjust the rod the other way, all it does is give me more and more free play at the top before I feel the resistance.
Now I am at a loss. What else can I possibly do? I am sick of planting my head under the dash, removing the transmission, etc. This is killing me. I have my car running with a slightly modified AEM EMS basemap now, and I want to get it on the road and do some tuning! If I can't think of something else to try, I am going to have the car towed to a shop and let them figure it out (I can't believe I said that, after doing my entire build up to this point by myself). I am in dire need of suggestions.
