1G New clutch won't disengage ?

[1SIC1Gb]

1990 AWD Tsi
New ACT twin disc setup, installed per instructions .

Before I replaced the slave, I bolted the old one on and tried to use the pedal, and it made some creaking noises and the pedal would only return about half way. Put the new oem slave on, bench bled it jafro style, and bled it on the car. Same thing has good pedal on the bottom half but nothing up top and won't return.

New clutch fork and pivot ball, all greased.
Started the car tonight and it will do like 35mph with the clutch all the way to the floor on jack stands.

I tried the jacks method to adjust the master rod under the dash and I kept rotating it clockwise and could push the slave with my hand all the way until it came in-threaded from the pedal spring ! . It never got to the point where I couldn't push the slave with my hand..

The ACT instructions say the opposite, to turn the rod towards the pedal until it stops, but that lowers the pedal even further, so I didn't bother with that.


Wondering what happened, if it somehow messed up the pedal assembly? Looking under neath the spring is on the pedal. The other big spring under the master rod doesn't move at all for the first half of travel. Not sure if it's supposed to. Any help appreciated.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

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[Justin Lauscher]

I had the same problem but with my single disc, I even went as far as welding the pedal, new master and slave. I decided the only way my problem will be fixed is with an extended slave rod, or another nut welded to the pedal for more clutch adjustment. Right now my pivot ball is shimmed and I have my rod extended.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Hmm. I have heard the twin disc cannot be shimmed. So the extended rod fixed yours?

 

[bastarddsm]

Is the pedal assembly good? It sounds like it's wore and the arm has slipped on the shaft. It also sounds like it isn't fully bled.

I like to bleed it from underneath. Crack the bleeder, squeeze the slave, close bleeder let slave return. This only works if the master cylinder is correctly adjusted and self adjust port isn't blocked. It's almost impossible to get to this point unless you have welded a nut on the clevis, or are using an extended m/c rod.

An extended slave cyl rod, or shimming the pivot will not do anything for you. Shimming the pivot, can possibly cause interference between the clutch cover and the fork.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Is the pedal assembly good? It sounds like it's wore and the arm has slipped on the shaft. It also sounds like it isn't fully bled.

I like to bleed it from underneath. Crack the bleeder, squeeze the slave, close bleeder let slave return. This only works if the master cylinder is correctly adjusted and self adjust port isn't blocked. It's almost impossible to get to this point unless you have welded a nut on the clevis, or are using an extended m/c rod.

An extended slave cyl rod, or shimming the pivot will not do anything for you. Shimming the pivot, can possibly cause interference between the clutch cover and the fork.

Yes that is how I bled it, as far as the pedals go, I'm not sure. Pushing the pedal doesn't engage the large spring under the mc until half way. I don't know if it normally would move that spring anytime the pedal is moved .

 

[bastarddsm]

The large spring would normally hold the pedal up. Basically if there is no load on the slave, if you push it about half down and release it, it should come back up. If you push it more than half, the spring will take it all the way down. If it's significatnly different than this, I'd suspect the pedals are screwy.

Crawl under the dash and see if the lever that actuates the mc moves with the pedal