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Resolved 1G How to test Radiator Fan?

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SnowmanFD

Proven Member
142
8
Dec 11, 2021
North Seattle, Washington
My car is overheating when its sitting still. (See previous posting for more details) The first thing i would like to check is if the fan even works.
Im 95% shure its an aftermarket fan because of a few reasons
1. Theres only 1 fan instead of 2
2. Its very "slim" (think its a ebay slim fan)
3. There's a wire going from a switch (aftermarket) in the interior that ends "near" the wiring for the fan (doesn't connect)
4. There is a circular metal fuse insted of a black square like all the others
 
Solution
I could watch the video with better quality. Looks like it's using the stock wiring. There are 2 wires that are connected to the radiator fan (the wires in the pic below). Check the blue with red line wire for 12v (the blue/black is ground) while the key position ON and the short wire inserted. If you have 12v on that wire, the fan is dead. If you don't have 12v, the fuse or relay is blown or bad wiring in somewhere.
Also you can just unplug the radiator fan and connect the 2 wires from the fan to battery directly. If the fan doesn't spin, the fan is dead.
The fuse is in the small box that is attached on the battery + terminal. (Should be a pink one 30A)

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First off, is this the...
For note, it could easily be a radiator cap or a coolant temp sensor issue as well.
I fought an overheat for a long time. When I would stop after running it, you could hear water boiling in radiator. I jumped both fans together so they both always turned on - no help. Turned out it was nothing more than a bad radiator cap.
 
I fought an overheat for a long time. When I would stop after running it, you could hear water boiling in radiator. I jumped both fans together so they both always turned on - no help. Turned out it was nothing more than a bad radiator cap.
I think ill buy a new one just in case, wouldn't hurt and its pretty cheap, but it still doesn't help with the fan 🙃
 
Please upload some pics or drawing how exactly wired. Sounds like the fan or its fuse is dead, but still could be bad wiring.
Do you have a voltmeter? If you do, check if the fan is receiving 12v while you are inserting the short wire into the white plug, also make sure the fan is grounded well.
Can you please elaborate on the wiring. Do you just want to see where the wires go/connect?

where is the fuse?

This is gonna sound like a dumb question but what do i check for 12v?

What/where should it be grounded to?
 
Can you please elaborate on the wiring. Do you just want to see where the wires go/connect?

where is the fuse?

This is gonna sound like a dumb question but what do i check for 12v?

What/where should it be grounded to?
Please show a clear pic of the wires from the fan.

Fuse is on the battery positive

Voltmeter. Harbor freight has them for cheap. I would wire the fan directly to the battery to make sure it works.
 
I could watch the video with better quality. Looks like it's using the stock wiring. There are 2 wires that are connected to the radiator fan (the wires in the pic below). Check the blue with red line wire for 12v (the blue/black is ground) while the key position ON and the short wire inserted. If you have 12v on that wire, the fan is dead. If you don't have 12v, the fuse or relay is blown or bad wiring in somewhere.
Also you can just unplug the radiator fan and connect the 2 wires from the fan to battery directly. If the fan doesn't spin, the fan is dead.
The fuse is in the small box that is attached on the battery + terminal. (Should be a pink one 30A)

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I could watch the video with better quality. Looks like it's using the stock wiring. There are 2 wires that are connected to the radiator fan (the wires in the pic below). Check the blue with red line wire for 12v (the blue/black is ground) while the key position ON and the short wire inserted. If you have 12v on that wire, the fan is dead. If you don't have 12v, the fuse or relay is blown or bad wiring in somewhere.
Also you can just unplug the radiator fan and connect the 2 wires from the fan to battery directly. If the fan doesn't spin, the fan is dead.
The fuse is in the small box that is attached on the battery + terminal. (Should be a pink one 30A)

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First off, is this the correct setting to check for 12v?
Second i have 2 pink fuses, and how do i check if they're blown? Is it via a visual inspection?

Thanks agian for all the help i have no idea what id do without yall ❤
 

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Solution
If you zoom in you can see the fan is connected via plugs. Would this maybe cause the issue?

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First off, is this the correct setting to check for 12v?
Second i have 2 pink fuses, and how do i check if they're blown? Is it via a visual inspection?

Thanks agian for all the help i have no idea what id do without yall ❤
As for the voltmeter, set the dot on the dial to DCV 20.
As for the fuse, the middle one is the one for radiator. You can visually check it. If it's blown, you can probably see some part is burnt or cut. It looks fine in the pic though.
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If you zoom in you can see the fan is connected via plugs. Would this maybe cause the issue?

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I don't think it's the issue as long as there is a good connection. Maybe it should be insulated better though. You can try to read the voltage there at green arrows (Key ON position and the short wire inserted), if you can read 12v there, the fan is probably dead.
Or just unplug it and connect the fan directly to battery + and - and then see if it would spin.
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So i ran a wire from the battery terminals to
As for the voltmeter, set the dot on the dial to DCV 20.
As for the fuse, the middle one is the one for radiator. You can visually check it. If it's blown, you can probably see some part is burnt or cut. It looks fine in the pic though.
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I don't think it's the issue as long as there is a good connection. Maybe it should be insulated better though. You can try to read the voltage there at green arrows (Key ON position and the short wire inserted), if you can read 12v there, the fan is probably dead.
Or just unplug it and connect the fan directly to battery + and - and then see if it would spin.
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Fuse looks to be fine,
Im not geting 12v,
Im going to try and plug it directly into the battery. Should i remove the plugs before or can they just stay in? I assume they should be removed.
 
Im not geting 12v,
Make sure that the short wire is surely connecting the 2 pin in the white plug. If the 2 pins are not connected well, you won't see 12v there.
Also check the relay and 12v power for the relay. Make sure the terminal in green in the pic below has 12v (When key ON). If you read 12v, swap that aftermarket relay with other relay that is in working condition like the pic below. And check for 12v at the fan plug.
Im going to try and plug it directly into the battery. Should i remove the plugs before or can they just stay in? I assume they should be removed.
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Make sure that the short wire is surely connecting the 2 pin in the white plug. If the 2 pins are not connected well, you won't see 12v there.
Also check the relay and 12v power for the relay. Make sure the terminal in green in the pic below has 12v (When key ON). If you read 12v, swap that aftermarket relay with other relay that is in working condition like the pic below. And check for 12v at the fan plug.

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Key is in ON position.

Does everything look correct?
 

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So im trying to run it directly to the battery and im only getting sparks, even when swapping them. Would it be an issue if they were touching or very close to touching in the actual fan plug?

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Key is in ON position.

Does everything look correct?
Change the location for ground. You are doing it on paint. You can use a bare part or battery (-) terminal.

So im trying to run it directly to the battery and im only getting sparks, even when swapping them. Would it be an issue if they were touching or very close to touching in the actual fan plug?

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If the two wires have a good contact on both battery and fan side and if it's just making spark, most likely the fan motor is dead.
 
Change the location for ground. You are doing it on paint. You can use a bare part or battery (-) terminal.


If the two wires have a good contact on both battery and fan side and if it's just making spark, most likely the fan motor is dead.
I will change the ground location and check it again.

In the case the fans dead, what do you reccomend i buy?
 
In the case the fans dead, what do you reccomend i buy?
I don't recommend a cheap slim fan from eBay. It's well known that doesn't work for long. I used to buy many cheap slim fans from a local store. Sometimes it died in a couple of days.
If you still have a sufficient space between the engine and the radiator to install a stock radiator fan, I would go with it. It's the best. It would be cooling much much better than a slim fan. I now have a Mishimoto 12" Race Line high flow fan. It's a bit thicker than a standard slim fan but flow much more than a common slim fan .
 
I don't recommend a cheap slim fan from eBay. It's well known that doesn't work for long. I used to buy many cheap slim fans from a local store. Sometimes it died in a couple of days.
If you still have a sufficient space between the engine and the radiator to install a stock radiator fan, I would go with it. It's the best. It would be cooling much much better than a slim fan. I now have a Mishimoto 12" Race Line high flow fan. It's a bit thicker than a standard slim fan but flow much more than a common slim fan .
Is that the oem one? ⬆️

I plan on upgrading to the Mishimoto radiator at some point, would it be smarter to buy it now and run it on the stock radiator until then?
 
Is that the oem one?
That's a aftermarket OEM "style" fan. I don't know if it flows the same as the Mitsubishi original one, but I am sure it's better than most of slim fans. Or if you want a stock fan, you can buy a good working used one.
I plan on upgrading to the Mishimoto radiator at some point, would it be smarter to buy it now and run it on the stock radiator until then?
My opinion is, the stock radiator would be just fine for most of cases, unless you have a specific reason to go with an aftermarket radiator. If you are thinking that because of the overheating issue, you should get a better fan first and see how it would work.
 
The stock radiator won't heat soak from under hood temps like a Mitsumoto Aluminum radiator would. Stay with stock as long as you can. Aluminum radiators soak up a LOT of radiant heat from the engine bay that a stock one doesn't. I like SPAL fans, they are used in NasCar and perform so much better than any Ebay fan. I think we've all been there. Use a stock fan as long as possible also, much more air flow from them.
 
Anyone got some photos of the oem fan setup? Just so i know what im looking for.
There are 4 wires off the connector. Two goes to the fan and the other two goes to the thermoswitch. Is this the info you’re looking for?
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New fan should be arriving today so im removing the old fan and filling the coolant.
Anyone know how to remove this type of clip?

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New fan should be arriving today so im removing the old fan and filling the coolant.
Anyone know how to remove this type of clip?

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I haven’t seen that specific type but it’s probably the same as others so probably have to get it off from the other side. It’s usually like a double sided zip tie. If you don’t want to take it off that way, use a angle grinder CAREFULLY. Something like this with a tie going through the middle. Small piece on the other side.

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I haven’t seen that specific type but it’s probably the same as others so probably have to get it off from the other side. It’s usually like a double sided zip tie. If you don’t want to take it off that way, use a angle grinder CAREFULLY. Something like this with a tie going through the middle. Same piece on the other side.

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How should i go about mounting the new one?
 
How should i go about mounting the new one?
The fan you have on the car is a pusher type. The factory one I sent you is puller type which goes on the inside. Only held on by 4 10mm bolts.

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