1G HELP me bring this DSM back from the grave !!!

[gunner4usa]

Finally, my brother-in-law gave the 90 GSX up after 5 years of it sitting. His father used to go and start it once a week, but that was at least three years ago. I gathered up some common tools and a jump box and headed down to see what the car would even do. I put some mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a week. When I went back, turned the motor over by hand with no problems. Next, I went through and changed fluids and just about anything else you could think of before starting a car that has been sitting for a long time. Hooked jump box up and it cranked. Realized it was not getting fuel or spark. Replaced the MPI with a replacement and another ECU for the car. It still cranked but no spark or fuel. Check engine light cycled when the ignition was turned on, like it is supposed to. I got a copy of DSMLink and went down this weekend to see if I could figure out what was going on by using my laptop. When I hooked the jump box up this time, the check engine light did not cycle and the car would not crank at all. The other warning lights come on in the dash like the coolant and brake light. I tried combinations of the new and old ECUs and MPI relays. Please, if anybody has any ideas on this, please let me know. I really do not want to rent a trailer to get it up to my house without knowing if it will be something simple, $$$ or not to get it going.

 

[DSM1G90]

Let's go back to the fuse block by the passenger shock tower:
What we have here is a staged fused system.
It's identical to the breaker panel in a home: You have the main disconnect breaker that kills the entire panel. Then, a 220V breaker that feeds the dryer or stove, then your 110VAC feeds to the wall outlets and other light load targets.

In that block, you have the 80A main and right next to the 80A are three 40A fuses that feeds to different sections of the vehicle-like ignition, lights and one 40A feed heads to the fuse box under the dash. It could be that one of those 40A sub feed fuses could have opened up.

Something to check.

Good luck - DSM

 

[Maes]

That is a good idea but I thought he said he already checked all the fuses.?

 

[jbeaton9292]

Well the car is a 90 you said what uear is that ecu im willing to bet you pit in a 91+ and didnt switch the 6 and 14 on the ecu plugs (de-pin then a bobby pin works awsome for doing so)

 

[Maes]

I guess he has two fwd ecu's the car is cranking but he doesn't think he's getting spark

 

[gunner4usa]

Well the car is a 90 you said what uear is that ecu im willing to bet you pit in a 91+ and didnt switch the 6 and 14 on the ecu plugs (de-pin then a bobby pin works awsome for doing so)

One of the ECUs is dated 5/88-6/90 and the other 6/90-6/92 according to the ECU ID chart. I know nothing about switching the two pins. Educate me please.[DOUBLEPOST=1415626663][/DOUBLEPOST]

I guess he has two fwd ecu's the car is cranking but he doesn't think he's getting spark

Maes, according to the ECU ID chart they are both for FWDs[DOUBLEPOST=1415626932][/DOUBLEPOST]I'm about to head out and get plug wires and get my alternator tested also. Once I get back, I will switch pins 6 and 14 because after jbeaton9292 pointed out that both of my ECUs are for 91, those two need to be switched to run in a 90. Then I will check for spark at the coil. I feel that with everybody's help, it's getting extremely close.

 

[Maes]

It's going to fire up soon. We are very close

 

[gunner4usa]

It's going to fire up soon. We are very close

Crossing my fingers after I finish the short list of preventative to-do's today, I will update you all.[DOUBLEPOST=1415656392][/DOUBLEPOST]Update:

I replaced plug wires today and also got alternator tested. A***Z*** and Ad****e said alternator good. Got home and no luck. I only tried the 90 ECU, but no spark. I did however get time to bleed the brakes and clutch. I am so glad that my brother-in-law never tried to drive this very far. Cylinder that pushes the shift boot in to engage the clutch, wasn't even put on tight.

 

[jbeaton9292]

Ok well for the ecu just look up 91+ ecu in a 90 there is tons of info you will have to switch that i bet the car fires right up

 

[gunner4usa]

Ok well for the ecu just look up 91+ ecu in a 90 there is tons of info you will have to switch that i bet the car fires right up

It ran on the older one before. Until my father-in-law didn't start anymore because it was out of gas. The older one is the one that showed 88-90[DOUBLEPOST=1415661633][/DOUBLEPOST]I checked for spark at the coil and nothing. I also tested the 4 wire plug that goes into the coil pack. I get no power at three of the wires, but with ignition in On or Start, the Black/white wire gets voltage

 

[jbeaton9292]

I would post a few pics of them ecus but im certain they are cooked

 

[DSM1G90]

1990 Federal FWD MD-128625 ECU

 

[gunner4usa]

1990 Federal FWD MD-128625 ECU

The other ECU is 6/90-6/92 Federal FWD MD-166260

 

[DSM1G90]

I use the High Line, MD-128625 where the MD-166260 is a Premium Line for the same Federal M/T FWD Turbo setup. But, as one user mentions and I stick with it: use the correct "MD" number for your harness setup. Thus, I'm a June of 1989 and I stick with the 128625 setup.

To find your setup, look at the build sticker on the driver's door "C" piller. You see the Month and Date the vehicle is manufactured. Also, look towards the lower left part of the sticker and you see a "MDH" (Month, Day and Time) when the vehicle was actually assembled.

For example: A DSM was built in November of 1990 and the MDH is 111410 (Nov 14 at 10am), thus, it's a 1991 DSM vehicle since July was the month to begin the assemblies for the new model year.

Steve has a good write-up on this issue below

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/need-some-help.218011/

DSM

 

[gunner4usa]

I use the High Line, MD-128625 where the MD-166260 is a Premium Line for the same Federal M/T FWD Turbo setup. But, as one user mentions and I stick with it: use the correct "MD" number for your harness setup. Thus, I'm a June of 1989 and I stick with the 128625 setup.

To find your setup, look at the build sticker on the driver's door "C" piller. You see the Month and Date the vehicle is manufactured. Also, look towards the lower left part of the sticker and you see a "MDH" (Month, Day and Time) when the vehicle was actually assembled.

For example: A DSM was built in November of 1990 and the MDH is 111410 (Nov 14 at 10am), thus, it's a 1991 DSM vehicle since July was the month to begin the assemblies for the new model year.

Steve has a good write-up on this issue below

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/need-some-help.218011/

DSM

So going off of my sticker, it was produced October 1989 and the MDH number is 101223, which tells me more specifically October 12 at 11PM. Knowing that it is a 90, according to the ECU ID reference, I would want either a Federal MD145903 for Turbo AWD or could use the Federal MD-128524 for Turbo FWD if in a pinch. Since I do have a MD-128625, should I see if that needs to be repaired? Attached are pictures of my production sticker and internals of the 128625 ECU. Somebody took a look at the pictures and said that their is minor corrosion, but the capacitors do not appear to have leaked. Or should I use the 91 MD- 166260 and switch pins 6 and 14 or just try to find a replacement MD-128625?

Picture of My Production Sticker

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Next three are of internals of MD-128625

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The next three are internals of the MD-166260

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[DOUBLEPOST=1415733390][/DOUBLEPOST]I am trying and trying to no avail. The following pictures are all of connectors under the hood that are not connected. I show the color wires and then how the connector looks. The last two pictures are single wires down by the alternator. One is a wire that comes off of a alternator harness and had a single round connector on the end of it an the last one is a broken wire that goes to the connection in the lower part o the picture. Any help identifying these connectors and where they go would be very helpful and may be the cause of why the car is not getting spark. Thank you[DOUBLEPOST=1415741136][/DOUBLEPOST]I'm trying to research and identify as many of them as I can. Hopefully one might resolve the spark issue.[DOUBLEPOST=1415743729][/DOUBLEPOST]I have identified the first and seventh one. AC Magnetic Clutch and Hood Switch. Two down and seven to go

 

[Maes]

1 of them looks like its for the stock fog light which you don't need

 

[gunner4usa]

1 of them looks like its for the stock fog light which you don't need

Which one? Wires colors? I am trying to identify so I can mark and eliminate any that may be causing issues.

 

[lglracer]

Do you know if there is Power going to the coil? That would be good to check. Work backward from the plugs and see what you find.

 

[gunner4usa]

Do you know if there is Power going to the coil? That would be good to check. Work backward from the plugs and see what you find.

lglracer,

When I probed the 4-wire connector going to the coil, I only have voltage at the black/white wire with the key in the on position or start position. There is no voltage at the other three at anytime

 

[Maes]

I will have to get back to you. I'm out on work right now gunner

 

[gunner4usa]

I will have to get back to you. I'm out on work right now gunner

Ok, will do. Thanks[DOUBLEPOST=1415752782][/DOUBLEPOST]Well 7:30 here. I will not be able to work on car again until sometime next Monday for a few hours. I am still going to try to head out tonight and remove CAS and turn to see if it produces spark for the plugs.[DOUBLEPOST=1415759719][/DOUBLEPOST]Update:

Ok, here we go. So I went out and pulled the CAS. I had my son turn the ignition on while I manually turned the CAS. No fuel at the injectors and no spark. Have fuel getting up to the filter but I guess that's it. Also, I have uploaded some pictures. Please let me know what you think. Sorry if I am repeating for people that I am having conversations with also. The marks never meet in the middle. Are they supposed to with DSMs? It looks like somebody used two rear cam gears putting this motor together. There is no way possible that the two marks can line up with the dowels at the top.

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[DOUBLEPOST=1415762898][/DOUBLEPOST]10:30 and nobody yet. Everybody must be occupied tonight.

 

[DSM1G90]

(Just got on @ 11:30 MST) .. You're close

1- put a 1/2" x 6inch extension on the end of a 1/2" ratchet handle. Place the open end of the extension into the square socket in the middle of the crank pulley.
2- take the spark plugs out so no compression to fight with.
3- roll the crank clockwise until the to cam pulley marks face each other with the dowel pins almost to the 12:00 position.
4- The timing mark on the pulley should be facing TDC on the lower cover.

Or, do the above in reverse and get the crank mark to TDC. If the cam sprocket marks are not visible, roll the crank another turn since you were 180* out of phase.

Good luck - DSM[DOUBLEPOST=1415774825][/DOUBLEPOST]On the connectors: one above the air filter is the boost controller connection.

You're missing the o2 sensor on the exhaust manifold.

Maybe take one whole shoot of what's under the hood. Looks like the previous owner wanted to abandon sensors all together with all unplugged.

 

[jbeaton9292]

Pic #9 is for a fan plug all blue wires

 

[gunner4usa]

So going off of my sticker, it was produced October 1989 and the MDH number is 101223, which tells me more specifically October 12 at 11PM. Knowing that it is a 90, according to the ECU ID reference, I would want either a Federal MD145903 for Turbo AWD or could use the Federal MD-128524 for Turbo FWD if in a pinch. Since I do have a MD-128625, should I see if that needs to be repaired? Attached are pictures of my production sticker and internals of the 128625 ECU. Somebody took a look at the pictures and said that their is minor corrosion, but the capacitors do not appear to have leaked. Or should I use the 91 MD- 166260 and switch pins 6 and 14 or just try to find a replacement MD-128625?

Picture of My Production Sticker

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Next three are of internals of MD-128625

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The next three are internals of the MD-166260

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[DOUBLEPOST=1415733390][/DOUBLEPOST]I am trying and trying to no avail. The following pictures are all of connectors under the hood that are not connected. I show the color wires and then how the connector looks. The last two pictures are single wires down by the alternator. One is a wire that comes off of a alternator harness and had a single round connector on the end of it an the last one is a broken wire that goes to the connection in the lower part o the picture. Any help identifying these connectors and where they go would be very helpful and may be the cause of why the car is not getting spark. Thank you[DOUBLEPOST=1415741136][/DOUBLEPOST]I'm trying to research and identify as many of them as I can. Hopefully one might resolve the spark issue.[DOUBLEPOST=1415743729][/DOUBLEPOST]I have identified the first and seventh one. AC Magnetic Clutch and Hood Switch. Two down and seven to go

Any ideas on the last two pictures? One is a single wire that appears the one end that is connected, going to a small connector routed under the alternator going towards the firewall. The other end is broken and no idea where it goes. The second is a single wire with what looks like a single connector that would slide on to a bolt or pin. That connector comes out of the harness that connects to the back of the alternator. I do not know if they might be the cause of no spark since they are located near the alternator. I believe issue may be the CAS though.[DOUBLEPOST=1415895065][/DOUBLEPOST]Definitely have fuel up to the rail. Removed fuel line at rail like suggested. Nothing happened with ignition on and manually turning the CAS. Had son crank it for a split second and got fuel up to the rail. Unfortunately, without the CAS doing what it is meant to do, I have to check for injector pulse. I might get to look at it for a few tomorrow, but not long. I also attached pictures of timing marks. Looks like cam gears line up pretty good, but the crank looks a little off. I do not know if it is supposed to be at top or bottom of that plastic indicator. if you look really closely, mine is at the very top. I did not have time to pull the #1 plug and verify TDC at with the marks lined up.

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Crank mark

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[DOUBLEPOST=1415895587][/DOUBLEPOST]

Pic #9 is for a fan plug all blue wires

Good deal. Down to 5 connectors to identify now. Slowly but surely. As of now, none that I have identified will prevent spark or injector pulse.

 

[Maes]

Sounds like one of the wires is for either your oil idiot light or oil pressure sender unit. Do you have anything plugged into those now? Sender unit is under crank pulley and idiot light is oppsit side towards bumper

 

[gunner4usa]

What is a Black Top CAS? Is one worth for $100?[DOUBLEPOST=1415895777][/DOUBLEPOST]

Sounds like one of the wires is for either your oil idiot light or oil pressure sender unit. Do you have anything plugged into those now? Sender unit is under crank pulley and idiot light is oppsit side towards bumper

I am unsure. Hopefully I can get a few minutes on it today and I will check. I'll let you know, and probably post better pics if I can