1G HELP me bring this DSM back from the grave !!!

[gunner4usa]

Finally, my brother-in-law gave the 90 GSX up after 5 years of it sitting. His father used to go and start it once a week, but that was at least three years ago. I gathered up some common tools and a jump box and headed down to see what the car would even do. I put some mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a week. When I went back, turned the motor over by hand with no problems. Next, I went through and changed fluids and just about anything else you could think of before starting a car that has been sitting for a long time. Hooked jump box up and it cranked. Realized it was not getting fuel or spark. Replaced the MPI with a replacement and another ECU for the car. It still cranked but no spark or fuel. Check engine light cycled when the ignition was turned on, like it is supposed to. I got a copy of DSMLink and went down this weekend to see if I could figure out what was going on by using my laptop. When I hooked the jump box up this time, the check engine light did not cycle and the car would not crank at all. The other warning lights come on in the dash like the coolant and brake light. I tried combinations of the new and old ECUs and MPI relays. Please, if anybody has any ideas on this, please let me know. I really do not want to rent a trailer to get it up to my house without knowing if it will be something simple, $$$ or not to get it going.

 

[gunner4usa]

Did we try the starter fluid trick, per chance?

Yes, tried a little with no luck. Once I get it to the house, with a new battery, I will be attempting the starter fluid if I still have no fuel

 

[serviceguy]

After that much time sitting you may have to boost the fuel pump (start it manually directly from a battery in order to provide the extra juice that will break the rotor free) and the injectors are most likely stuck closed, once you ave the car running somehow you should find which one is not firing and tap it in order to unblock it (or just tap on all of them). Obviously the ECU needs to be on, before trying to start the car you should really inspect the ECU board in order to check for leaky capacitors.

 

[gunner4usa]

After that much time sitting you may have to boost the fuel pump (start it manually directly from a battery in order to provide the extra juice that will break the rotor free) and the injectors are most likely stuck closed, once you ave the car running somehow you should find which one is not firing and tap it in order to unblock it (or just tap on all of them). Obviously the ECU needs to be on, before trying to start the car you should really inspect the ECU board in order to check for leaky capacitors.

I hace two ECUs. One is for the FWD and the other for AWD. The FWD one shows signs of leakage but the AWD looks good. Hopefully it will start this weekend. Thanks for the information, I will definitely be doing this if need be.

 

[toddrs93]

fyi I have seen hydraulic timing tensioners go bad on these and 3000gt's after years of sitting. then when somebody goes out and gets a strong crank on it, it jumps timing instantly because the tensioner is smashed in, sometimes enough to bend valves. Think about how potentially old the components are, no telling if and when they were replaced. Personally I would tear the timing side down and go ahead and replace the timing belt and tensioner, and check all pulleys. This is a separate issue from what you are trying to figure out, but in the mean time I would do what was recommended and go ahead and send the ecu to ecmlink to have it checked, that way you can completely rule that out since everything electrical originates from it. Let me know if you need help with anything. I have a shop and I do work with ecmlink quite a bit.

 

[gunner4usa]

fyi I have seen hydraulic timing tensioners go bad on these and 3000gt's after years of sitting. then when somebody goes out and gets a strong crank on it, it jumps timing instantly because the tensioner is smashed in, sometimes enough to bend valves. Think about how potentially old the components are, no telling if and when they were replaced. Personally I would tear the timing side down and go ahead and replace the timing belt and tensioner, and check all pulleys. This is a separate issue from what you are trying to figure out, but in the mean time I would do what was recommended and go ahead and send the ecu to ecmlink to have it checked, that way you can completely rule that out since everything electrical originates from it. Let me know if you need help with anything. I have a shop and I do work with ecmlink quite a bit.

todds93,

Yes, this id definitely something I need to consider. According to my brother-in-law, the motor was a fresh rebuild and has only about 600 miles on it. I might want to worry about it not being broken in yet also before it sat for such a long time.

 

[toddrs93]

todds93,

Yes, this id definitely something I need to consider. According to my brother-in-law, the motor was a fresh rebuild and has only about 600 miles on it. I might want to worry about it not being broken in yet also before it sat for such a long time.

Right, and you would be amazed how many people skip on the tensioner to save money because it looks ok when they replace the belt. I am a 15 year mitsu tech and I have seen several failed tensioners to 1 or 2 failed timing belts.

 

[lglracer]

Good Luck with the car. Reading the thread I do agree that you need to check all the basics first and it should fire up. Also with ECM link see if you can even get a connection between the laptop and the ecu. If that is good see if there are and Check Engine Codes in the system for fun. A good set of Factory Service Manuals would be a big help in testing stuff. I found Mine on Ebay for like $60 for my Galant And they were worth every penny.

 

[gunner4usa]

Good Luck with the car. Reading the thread I do agree that you need to check all the basics first and it should fire up. Also with ECM link see if you can even get a connection between the laptop and the ecu. If that is good see if there are and Check Engine Codes in the system for fun. A good set of Factory Service Manuals would be a big help in testing stuff. I found Mine on Ebay for like $60 for my Galant And they were worth every penny.

Yeah, I just got the set of manuals. I was attempting the ECM link this weekend and couldn't get anything. It cranked and cycled the CEL last week but not this week. I will be getting a new battery for it this weekend hopefully and pick back up on it. I will keep everybody up to date on it on here for sure.[DOUBLEPOST=1415207940][/DOUBLEPOST]

Right, and you would be amazed how many people skip on the tensioner to save money because it looks ok when they replace the belt. I am a 15 year mitsu tech and I have seen several failed tensioners to 1 or 2 failed timing belts.

I will try to track down a new tensioner also. I really don't want to screw the car up before I really get to start on it

 

[92gsxbafaro]

just unplug all the injectors and put connect a light or something that will detect the signal the light will pulse while you are cranking it if they are getting power

 

[gunner4usa]

Just reserved the car trailer for Saturday and have my dad picking me up a new battery from his shop. I am determined after checking over everything on this Saturday, to possibly try to crank and start it!!!

 

[Benzino]

Check your leads for internal corrosion.

 

[Torpedo]

The alternator might be gone?

 

[gunner4usa]

I am

Check your leads for internal corrosion.

I am going to clean them up when I put the battery in Saturday. I can only hope that it is that simple.[DOUBLEPOST=1415283878][/DOUBLEPOST]

The alternator might be gone?

Once I get the battery in, I will check the alternator. Luckily, I have my jump box for a backup.

 

[92gsxbafaro]

good luck man it would be a good idea to get a noid light and voltometer if you dont have one already, if all your sensors and battery check out good start checking wires for continuity.

 

[gunner4usa]

good luck man it would be a good idea to get a noid light and voltometer if you dont have one already, if all your sensors and battery check out good start checking wires for continuity.

92gsxbafaro,

Once I get here and cranking again, I will be spending plenty of time going over each and every sensor and plenty of wires. We found 3 mice skeletons in it when we cleaned it out. Who knows what wire damage I will find under the dash.

 

[Fferrier]

If you don't get any ecu with the new battery I'd check the harness to the ecu-rodents like to ruin wires and nest in blower motors (ask me how I know) as for the trailer, if you have a dolly why not disconnect the driveshaft from the rear end?

 

[413mudman]

Nice! I know all to well what you are going through. My 91TSI ssat more than driven. now I have a a fresh motor and turbo with ten thousand miles broken in. I think I am having timing issues though cuz it suddenly has decided to run rough. Back to the drawing board!

 

[gunner4usa]

Nice! I know all to well what you are going through. My 91TSI ssat more than driven. now I have a a fresh motor and turbo with ten thousand miles broken in. I think I am having timing issues though cuz it suddenly has decided to run rough. Back to the drawing board!

I am going to be sure to take baby steps with this. I have been trying to get my brother-in-law let go of it for at least 6 years. So far, I have noticed that the parts are hard to get a hold of. Got my new fuel pump delivered today though!

 

[lglracer]

If you don't get any ecu with the new battery I'd check the harness to the ecu-rodents like to ruin wires and nest in blower motors (ask me how I know) as for the trailer, if you have a dolly why not disconnect the driveshaft from the rear end?

I actually just cleaned my blower motor out and it was full of junk. Luckily they didn't do any wire damage.

So far, I have noticed that the parts are hard to get a hold of. Got my new fuel pump delivered today though!

Napa or Autozone I've noticed have some parts ready. Ive also noticed that it helps to be able to explain the part really well or bring it in. Everyone has a honda around me so turbo is a foreign language to them or even Galant VR4. JNZTuning is a great place to go if you need parts. I use them all the time for little odds and ends.

 

[gunner4usa]

I actually just cleaned my blower motor out and it was full of junk. Luckily they didn't do any wire damage.



Napa or Autozone I've noticed have some parts ready. Ive also noticed that it helps to be able to explain the part really well or bring it in. Everyone has a honda around me so turbo is a foreign language to them or even Galant VR4. JNZTuning is a great place to go if you need parts. I use them all the time for little odds and ends.

If you don't get any ecu with the new battery I'd check the harness to the ecu-rodents like to ruin wires and nest in blower motors (ask me how I know) as for the trailer, if you have a dolly why not disconnect the driveshaft from the rear end?

Yeah, I already noticed one wire which was in two. I didn't pay attention to which wire in the harness, but I will be repairing it Saturday night before anything. As far as the trailer, I did not want to take the chance of screwing up anything in the trans or transfer. My dolly is ok for local use, but I have two interstates and a highway on my way back. I feel a lot safer with the trailer. Trailer is $65.00. Also got my new battery today. I have to pick it up from my father on the way back with the car Saturday.[DOUBLEPOST=1415329124][/DOUBLEPOST]

The alternator might be gone?

I hope not the alternator. Once it starts, I'll check the output of the alternator. Hopefully it is good though. When I replace belts, I will probably take alternator to have it tested also.[DOUBLEPOST=1415329277][/DOUBLEPOST]Also, I was reading about the theft starter relay. Is that behind center console also by the ecu and MPI? And what exactly does this do? I know what it sounds like it does, I just want to make sure that I didn't accidentally trip something with that to cause the no crank no CEL cycle.[DOUBLEPOST=1415330233][/DOUBLEPOST]This is what I'm working with[DOUBLEPOST=1415405130][/DOUBLEPOST]I'm like a little kid on Christmas Eve. I can't wait to get it here tomorrow and start working on it!

 

[gunner4usa]

Is anybody on? Got it home and with new battery, when I turn the ignition switch on, only get power at 103 and 110 on the ECU connector C-59 - the small connector going into the ECU. Also, I am still getting lights in the dash but still no check engine[DOUBLEPOST=1415502873][/DOUBLEPOST]Tested Relay using the following from a tech post on here and it checks out good. So I guess I should chase the power wires back from the MPI to where the power comes from.


Applying +12v to pin 10 and the ground (-battery) connection to pin 8 should make 12v show up at pins 4 and 5. Same deal for pin 3 and 7 causing 12v to show at pin 2. Applying 12v across pins 9 and 6 will cause continuity between pins 3 and 2. (on relays with the second input)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[DSM1G90]

MPI fuse good? They may look good in the window, but it could have opened up inside. Remove from block and check with a VOM for continuity. This also goes for the 80A alternator fuse, in which that has to be unbolted from the fuse block to test - the two 10mm bolts on each side of the fuse to undo from the block.

 

[gunner4usa]

MPI fuse good? They may look good in the window, but it could have opened up inside. Remove from block and check with a VOM for continuity. This also goes for the 80A alternator fuse, in which that has to be unbolted from the fuse block to test - the two 10mm bolts on each side of the fuse to undo from the block.

DSM1G90,

I am going in in a bit to mess with it now that I have daylight. I will let you know what I come with.[DOUBLEPOST=1415557481][/DOUBLEPOST]Update:
I checked the clutch pedal and that piece for the safety switch was broken. It cranks now and the fuel pump comes on, but no check engine light and all dash lights are back out. The brake and coolant lights were on, but no more. They had the wire running straight from the battery to the fuel pump. I took it back to the stock wiring and at least the fuel pump is working now.

The MPI is showing good and alternator 80A as far as continuity

 

[DSM1G90]

Since you gone that far with it cranking, now is the time to try the starter fluid trick. Pull the plugs and see if they're gapped at .028 and clean - not wet or loaded with soot-and starter fluid makes a great spark plug cleaner to rid of such.

Thing I also wonder with it sitting so long, is if the timing belt took a jump.

I'd pull the upper belt cover off, put the pulley mark on TDC and see if the cam marks are straight across from each other with the dowel pins on the sprockets up at the 12:00 position.

 

[gunner4usa]

Since you gone that far with it cranking, now is the time to try the starter fluid trick. Pull the plugs and see if they're gapped at .028 and clean - not wet or loaded with soot-and starter fluid makes a great spark plug cleaner to rid of such.

Thing I also wonder with it sitting so long, is if the timing belt took a jump.

I'd pull the upper belt cover off, put the pulley mark on TDC and see if the cam marks are straight across from each other with the dowel pins on the sprockets up at the 12:00 position.

Still no power to the either ECU that I have though. Let me correct that, MPI is sending power to ECU, it just is not booting and the check engine light is not doing it's initial 4-5 second cycle. There is no spark at all.

I'll have to take top cover off tomorrow since I'm almost out of daylight for the day. I will let you know what results I get.