Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

[Anfurnyy]

Well I tried and failed to fix the pump. And ended up breaking it worse.
I ordered a 92+ pump with just the 2 housing from rockauto and holy hell it's an absolute mess. You can definitely tell they just slapped some new seals in it, and then rattlecanned the whole pump, fittings,pulley and all. It really is atrocious.

I threw it in the car and sure enough power steering works now. I took it for a test drive and unfortunately the alternator is indeed bad. Took it for a quick 10 minutes cruise and voltage never went above 11.5 v and was actually dropping. I think I killed the regulator in it or something. Not sure. Ordered up ANOTHER alternator, and a Kiggly under drive pulley for it. I pray to God that this is my last alternator for a very long time. Combined with all the alternators I've gotten for this car is just shy of $1k. (Like $970) Without shipping..

Swapped out my motor mount bracket yesterday which wasn't too hard but was annoying. Definitely a lot more room for the coolant line, oil return and the compressor outlet charge pipe. Happy with this one.


Hopefully my next post should be more positive and I'll be able to get back to breaking in the clutch enough to rip on it again.

 

[1cleangsx]

How are you liking the quarter master so far?

 

[Anfurnyy]

How are you liking the quarter master so far?

The like 20 miles I've driven on it have been absolutely great. It feels like it engages solid but not super harshly. Pedal feel is maybe 5% more than stock.

It does chatter on decel and when the clutch is pushed in but nothing outrageous, IMO.

It damn near drives like stock. I love it for now.
I have heard that the engage harsher after break in but I guess I'll have to find out. Break in is 200 miles.

 

[1cleangsx]

Stock 3/4” bore slave? Did you use a pedal stop? Sorry still strongly considering a twin in the near future

 

[Anfurnyy]

Stock 3/4” bore slave? Did you use a pedal stop? Sorry still strongly considering a twin in the near future

I'm not 100% sure what size it is but yeah is the stock 1g turbo slave and master. No pedal stop. But the master rod is adjusted pretty much all the way out.
I haven't had a chance yet to do a clutch drag test but it doesn't "clunk" or grind going into 3rd like it used to so maybe it's fine?

 

[1cleangsx]

I’ve just read the twins don’t need that much fork throw, some have even used the fwd 13/16” slave for less throw, not having to install a pedal stop would be nice, I’m leaning towards the quarter master because when I upgrade to the NEAT gearset down the road I know I can get the custom 1” splined disks without having to completely replace the clutch, I think their was recently a competition twin for sale on here that had an overthrown fork issue that @jerseygsx was selling, so it does happen, it’s funny on our heavy singles we fight not getting enough throw and on the twins we worry about too much

 

[Anfurnyy]

I’ve just read the twins don’t need that much fork throw, some have even used the fwd 13/16” slave for less throw, not having to install a pedal stop would be nice, I’m leaning towards the quarter master because when I upgrade to the NEAT gearset down the road I know I can get the custom 1” splined disks without having to completely replace the clutch, I think their was recently a competition twin for sale on here that had an overthrown fork issue that @jerseygsx was selling, so it does happen, it’s funny on our heavy singles we fight not getting enough throw and on the twins we worry about too much

They definitely don't. It could be that maybe I didn't COMPLETELY bleed my clutch. I plan on bleeding it some more here soon just to make sure.

The Wildwood master I had definitely needed a pedal stop for sure too. I really like the OEM master though because it uses the entire pedal travel to release and doesn't engage/disengage like a light switch. When I had that Wildwood in it was either Go, or Not go

But seriously such a pain in the ass with these cars you either run a twin and have good disengagement but break the trans, or you run a single have shitty disengagement but the trans is safER.

 

[1cleangsx]

Or trade in your NUTS and go auto

 

[Anfurnyy]

Or trade in your NUTS and go auto

Hell nah! I could / would never.

Only if I built a dedicated drag car

 

[Anfurnyy]

Well boys and girls,
we have solved the Voltage/charging issues.
I got the NEW NEW alternator in and the issue was still there.. Car would start, hit like 14v for about 2 second and then drop to ~11v and then fall from there.

Started tracing wires and found this:

This is the fuse to the battery/ main + junction.
Swapped in a new fuse and bam! 13.7v at idle and 14.2 a cruising, Perfect.

Another issue popped up while on my little test drive though.
My fuel pressure isn't rising with boost. Its just stuck at a basically static 43psi.
Vacuum line looks good, but im going to do a boost leak test today, and then if that doesnt show anything im going to stick compressed air into the line with the car running and see if pressure goes up or not. Ill report back later on this.

Couple side things this weekend too was my buddy picked up a '99 RX7 RS with about ~50k Miles on it. Damn near MINT condition. One of the rotor sides was low on compression so we pulled the engine for a rebuild. Super cool car, first hands on experience with a Rotor/ RX7.


I also snagged a Bosch TB > 2.5" clamp adapter and modifying that to make it fit. I have to drill out the holes to fit the larger m8 bolts for the manifold and have to clearance the adapter to also fit the larger bolt head holes.

 

[1cleangsx]

I wonder if that in line fuse is the issue @Stapl3 is having with his alternator’s?

 

[Stapl3]

I wonder if that in line fuse is the issue @Stapl3 is having with his alternator’s?

I never even thought to check that. Big thanks, I'll look when I get home.

 

[92AWDHX40]

What gauge wire I need to finish my install.

 

[Anfurnyy]

What gauge wire I need to finish my install.

I have 2gauge from alt > distribution post in the bay, then 4ga from there to the battery.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Finally got this ol friggin turd moving again!
I continued to fight some starting issues yesterday though. Car would not start with no jump pack on the car even after a couple small (5ish min) drives.
I tested Voltage with my multimeter with the key on engine off at the 2 posts in the bay and it read 15.7v ! My CAN Gauge shows 12.3 in the same state.
I checked directly at the battery, and it read 15.8v! I tested my Daily's battery also and it read 16.8v so my multimeter is definitely broken


After awhile it wouldnt even start with the jump pack on. I thought maybe i flooded it or something so i just left the car sit for about an hour and then tried again and still no start even with jump pack on.
Ended up checking my coil fuse to the coil pack relay and sure enough the 10amp fuse was toast. Replaced it and the car fired up.
Took it for a longer drive to the gas station to fill up with some E. When i left the car started by itself with no help from the jump pack. Key on Engine off Voltage was still only 12.4v, it dips down to like 10.5v while cranking. Im really not sure what the issue is honestly. Maybe is the Wiring to the starter? I was thinking about upgrading the battery wire from the 4ga that it is now to a 1/0 gauge.


I do not have a wire straight to the engine block. Im thinking about adding that and see if that helps out with voltage. i always seem to have low voltage between the '90 and '93 chassis. Its likely my fault still.

Drove the car to work this morning and i forgot how freaking fast this car is. I can definitely feel that the clutch is getting more grabby as its breaks in, but not awful by any means. Still 100% street able. Car still has a funky breakup right after getting into the next gear, like its in launch control mode or NLTS. Got that logged and sent it to Tuner this morning.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Oh and scored a NEW IN BOX Rear hatch seal from one of my sources. $100!
Snagged a cast 300m driveshaft yoke also for when we do a bigger tcase in the future.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Well my Order for the hatch seal got cancelled. I ordered it from Amayama and usually they confirm availability before you actually pay for your order and they said that they did but ended up sending a follow up and saying it wasn't available. Dang.

Car has been running pretty good. I actually drove it to work Wednesday and Thursday and it drove pretty well. A little too well, in Fact.

Wednesday driving went off without a hitch. Cold and Hot start fueling needs touched up though i think. But it started eventually.

Yesterday thought was really interesting.. on the way to work i came across a 335i and wanted to assert my dominance on him and i did. a little 2-3 action but when i let out of 3rd cause the car was getting a little squirrely it blew the coupler off the Throttle body at 49 psi. Immediately after, the check engine came on. I looked over at the laptop and saw "intake air temp above error value" and then i looked at my IAT on the Can gauge and it read 300+ degrees

It struggled to make it to work since its missing a charge pipe and dumping fuel due to reading a faulty IAT but it made it. I got to work and popped the hood and saw the coupler had blown off, no biggie. BUT then i look at at the IAT and literally busted out laughing.

It blew the coupler off, and blew the charge pipe right into my Catch can, and EXPLODED the sensor and connector and left a big ol dent in the catch can.


Thankfully the 2 pins on the sensor still existed and somehow the 2 female pins on the connector side were still fully intact. So after work i was able just push the pins into the connector for the sensor.

Wasnt quite as easy for the tbolt clamp though. I once again didnt bring any tools so i had to improvise. I DID bring a 12 mm wrench but that was too big for the nut on the tbolt clamp so i used one of them stupid TikTok tricks where you use a coin or washer to take up the extra room in the wrench and it worked perfectly. I was able to make it home just fine.


Wild ride yesterday boys n girls. Today i stop at Ace and get the correct length bolts for that throttle body adapter so this shouldnt happen again.

 

[1cleangsx]

49 psi that’s insane

I assume that’s the limit for t bolt clamp? Time to go HD

Again dude my car feels fast on my “little” 6266 at 37psi I can’t imagine 49psi on a 67mm , I assume the clutch is releasing well

 

[Anfurnyy]

Again dude my car feels fast on my “little” 6266 at 37psi I can’t imagine 49psi on a 67mm , I assume the clutch is releasing well

49.2 to be exact

49 psi that’s insane

It's definitely no walk in the park haha I kind of have to forget everything else I'm doing to make sure I drive the car haha

I assume that’s the limit for t bolt clamp? Time to go HD

Well it blew off because this is a DBW throttle body and a doesn't actually have a lip for a clamp or anything. It's supposed to be used with HD clamps by the looks of it. Coming soonish

 

[Anfurnyy]

Well car has been decent lately. Driven it to work a couple days last week and gave some buddies a ride. I took a video with my insta 360 but the Audio is absolutely horrendous.


I got my throttle body adapter installed and it's heaps better than that dinky little lip on the throttle body.


Finally got my shift light installed. Works well, uh maybe I'm just not used to it yet but I can't seem to keep up with the light. Probably need to adjust how soon it comes on for 1st and 2nd gears because they're just too fast.

I got some LED tail lights/brake lights installed, and LED blinkers as well. These ones don't hyperflash as they have built in resistors. They are both significantly brighter than the OEM bulbs. I'm working on some LED front blinkers as well but so far I've ordered 2 sets that say they don't hyperflash and they do.


Video also shows the shift light as well! The first bit of the video is LED bulb on the left and OEM on the right comparing tail/brake light

I found some late 91 HD 3rd and 4th gears that I'm going to snag so I went ahead and ordered up some new synchros for those as well as the shift fork and what not to make it work with my car.

I THINK I'm going to set a new goal for myself and the car which is going to the 2025 shootout. Either with or without a dogbox, probably run in the street eliminator class.

Gotta fix some small things. Oil pan is leaking, likely due to this oil pan gasket. Do yourself a favor and don't use one. Rtv that bad boy.
Want to fix my power mirrors. Currently they don't work at all. The ball mount things that keep the mirrors in are broken so the mirrors flop around.

I still need to have a mount made up for my catch can, and take my valve cover off and have new fittings welded in to clear the hood and weld up one of the old PCB line holes on the end. Currently it just kinda shoots oil mist all over the fuse box

 

[CrackedDSM]

Well car has been decent lately. Driven it to work a couple days last week and gave some buddies a ride. I took a video with my insta 360 but the Audio is absolutely horrendous.
View attachment 744107

I got my throttle body adapter installed and it's heaps better than that dinky little lip on the throttle body.
View attachment 744105View attachment 744106

Finally got my shift light installed. Works well, uh maybe I'm just not used to it yet but I can't seem to keep up with the light. Probably need to adjust how soon it comes on for 1st and 2nd gears because they're just too fast.

I got some LED tail lights/brake lights installed, and LED blinkers as well. These ones don't hyperflash as they have built in resistors. They are both significantly brighter than the OEM bulbs. I'm working on some LED front blinkers as well but so far I've ordered 2 sets that say they don't hyperflash and they do.


Video also shows the shift light as well! The first bit of the video is LED bulb on the left and OEM on the right comparing tail/brake light

I found some late 91 HD 3rd and 4th gears that I'm going to snag so I went ahead and ordered up some new synchros for those as well as the shift fork and what not to make it work with my car.

I THINK I'm going to set a new goal for myself and the car which is going to the 2025 shootout. Either with or without a dogbox, probably run in the street eliminator class.

Gotta fix some small things. Oil pan is leaking, likely due to this oil pan gasket. Do yourself a favor and don't use one. Rtv that bad boy.
Want to fix my power mirrors. Currently they don't work at all. The ball mount things that keep the mirrors in are broken so the mirrors flop around.

I still need to have a mount made up for my catch can, and take my valve cover off and have new fittings welded in to clear the hood and weld up one of the old PCB line holes on the end. Currently it just kinda shoots oil mist all over the fuse box

Link til those LEDs? I have idiotic tinted tail lights from a previous owner somewhere and bright af leds in them would make me feel a whole lot better.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Link til those LEDs? I have idiotic tinted tail lights from a previous owner somewhere and bright af leds in them would make me feel a whole lot better.

Blinkers ( rear only)

Amazon.com

Tail lights/brake:

Amazon.com

The front blinkers are an 1156 style if you can find some that aren't $50 and don't hyperflash

 

[CrackedDSM]

Blinkers ( rear only)

Amazon.com

Tail lights/brake:

Amazon.com

The front blinkers are an 1156 style if you can find some that aren't $50 and don't hyperflash

I'm assuming you used THESE and they didn't work out/hyperflashed on you? If not I'm tempted to try them.

Also found these that I'm tempted to try for the corner lenses. I have clear corner lenses so a nice bright amber would be great.


Damn it Anfurnyy you got me wanting to spend money.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I'm assuming you used THESE and they didn't work out/hyperflashed on you? If not I'm tempted to try them.

Also found these that I'm tempted to try for the corner lenses. I have clear corner lenses so a nice bright amber would be great.


Damn it Anfurnyy you got me wanting to spend money.

Those one actually work and are what I'm using for the rears, which are 1156. Fronts are 1157 which I have been having a hard time finding a good set for.

1156 and 1157 don't fit each other either. The little balls are offset on 1157 and the same on 1156.

Also found these that I'm tempted to try for the corner lenses. I have clear corner lenses so a nice bright amber would be great.

If you get some for the corners, just be aware there is a length restriction for the corners. They might be too long and hit the inside of the housing. Which is why I didn't replace mine honestly I didn't want to have to find out how long it needed to be.
Plus I didn't see any benefit to them, IMO

But the tails and blinkers? Perfect

 

[CrackedDSM]

If you get some for the corners, just be aware there is a length restriction for the corners. They might be too long and hit the inside of the housing. Which is why I didn't replace mine honestly I didn't want to have to find out how long it needed to be.
Plus I didn't see any benefit to them, IMO

But the tails and blinkers? Perfect

Gotcha.


Unfortunately upon messing with them and measuring length, I've discovered the side marker lights don't work. The front blinkers do, but the side markers don't. Hazard switch works but the side markers still don't light up.


Sigh. Lol.