1G 1990 No spark Bad ECU?

[C-note89ky]

I’m in the same boat. My ecu needs repaired. My car sat for a long time. I have no check engine light and no movement of the boost gauge.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[C-note89ky]

I know its getting fuel. The pump is working and I smell fuel on the plugs.

 

[steve]

Assuming this is still your current ECU, you need a new one.

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

Ok so you know it's getting fuel, try jumping a wire from pos terminal to the red wire that goes to the cam angle sensor, if that works then the problem is where that sensor gets power from, possibly MPI relay

 

[C-note89ky]

I will try today

I did test the MPI and also have a spare. But I will try and see what happens.

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

I'm currently trying to finish fuel system on my 90 TSI AWD, I checked everything out and found bad grounds at fuel sender. This car sat for 20 years at original owners house. The pump was not working and I found it all rusted up and ground wire was blackened about 8 inches. I replaced pump and repaired wires and now it's working. Will find out if she starts tonight.

 

[C-note89ky]

Assuming this is still your current ECU, you need a new one.

No have a different one for sure. Was told by a member on here it was took off a running 1990 just like mine. But it still has the no check engine light on for 5 sec and the boost gauge does not move. So even my new on is still bad I think. But my new one gives me fuel pump power and the fuel injectors r spraying into the cylinders.

 

[steve]

Let's see it.

 

[C-note89ky]

Let's see it.

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[steve]

It's better than the last one but still suspect due to the caps leaking and the quality of the repairs.
Have you checked the MPI relay to make sure it's getting told to turn the power on and doing so?

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-basic-ecu-mpi-circuit-function.435961/

I'll look and see if I still have the 90 diagrams handy.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-engine-ecu-mpi-circuit-diagrams.540595/

 

[C-note89ky]

It's better than the last one but still suspect due to the caps leaking and the quality of the repairs.
Have you checked the MPI relay to make sure it's getting told to turn the power on and doing so?

Yes sir I have 2 MPI relays and I did the tests to see if both relays work with the +&- wires touching the certain pin outs. And I checked the voltage to the power wire going to the ECU and it gets power. But yeah I figure if I have to get one repaired I will get the new one. Cause you can see the repairs on there.

So who know guys been a member on here for years and sold a bunch of stuff but sometimes you get got. Lol

 

[steve]

If you're getting power to the ECU pins 102 and 107 then the ECU should be performing it's startup tests if it's working.

The gauge cluster gets it's power for the CEL and Boost Gauge from Fuse #11 in the Junction Box. You can test the light by looking for voltage @ ECU pin 64. The ECU turns on the light by grounding the signal via a current limiting resistor.

If the ECU is running it will output either a heart beat or fault codes on it's diagnostic connector pin 1 (ECU Pin 1 Yellow wire).

Lastly, the best guys for ECU repairs are Tom and Dave @ ECMTuning.

 

[C-note89ky]

If you're getting power to the ECU pins 102 and 107 then the ecu should be performing it's startup tests if it's working.

The gauge cluster gets it's power for the CEL and Boost Gauge from Fuse #11 in the Junction Box. You can test the light by looking for voltage @ ECU pin 64. The ECU turns on the light by grounding the signal via a current limiting resistor.

If the ECU is running it will also output either a heart beat or fault codes on it's diagnostic connector pin 1 (ECU Pin 1 Yellow wire).

Lastly, the best guys for ECU repairs are Tom and Dave @ ECMTuning.

I will do some testing now thanks for the guidance man!

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

It's better than the last one but still suspect due to the caps leaking and the quality of the repairs.

Ok so my ECU was no good. Got a freshly serviced ECU with EPROM socket conversion for $310. I put that in and it started up after choking on marvel mystery oil .

So to check for a bad ECU turn the ignition on. Check engine light should turn on for 5 seconds. Also the boost gauge will go to zero. If that doesn't happen ECU is bad.

To make sure the check engine light actually works I jump positive terminal to red wire on cam angle sensor. When I turn the key on the check engine light came on for 5 seconds.

 

[steve]

To make sure the check engine light actually works I jump positive terminal to red wire on cam angle sensor. When I turn the key on the check engine light came on for 5 seconds.

FYI since I didn't see this before, what you did was provide power to the MPI circuit bypassing the normal MPI relay operation. That caused the ECU to power up and turn on the CEL, not the jumper itself.

If the ECU was 100% dead instead of just corrosion damaged the CEL wouldn't have turned on by doing this. That's because it's the ECU logic that turns the CEL on.

Like it says in the MPI Circuit thread, grounding MPI Relay pin 8 to activate it would have, in your case, done the same thing.

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

Ok, I replaced ECU. Car ran ok, fixed some boost leaks. 600 miles later lost #2 and #3 spark. Test PTU and it has continuity with 1.5 volts applied as indicated in Haynes. Checked coils for resistance, when checking plug for coils I got 1.5 ohm on both circuits. I checked for broken wires, none found. What else could it be? ECU, CAS?

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

Steve, thanks for all your input. I'm totally lost RN. I installed new coil plugs and wires and did more cleaning of grounds.

Today I'm going to remove/inspect CAS wire connectors inside the unit if I see them, and clean it up inside. Read somewhere else that if the cam seal there is leaking it could get into the CAS and causes issues with picking up the signals possibly making signal weak.

Other than that I might put ECMLink chip in and see if I can read codes? Is that an option for ECMLink? Help me out Steve, you seem to know what's good with the DSM. You can pm me for my #phone if you have any time to talk about it. Thanks again

C-moto did you solve the issues? What did you do for the fix?

 

[C-note89ky]

I haven’t touch the 1g I’m sorry. I bought a ECU from someone on sight hooked it up and still no check engine light. I have to dig deeper. But I am in the process of going from stock ECU to v3 DSMLink with my 2g so I’m exploring that project at the time being. I will get to the 1g soon.

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

Damn I was hoping you made progress.

I sent out my factory ECU for rebuild, ought to get it back next week. I also ordered a PTU.

I was wondering, I have an EPROM socket ECU in the car RN, if I install ECMLink can I then read DTC?

After all parts come in just leaves injectors, and CAS and MPI left as old parts. Also to be clear all parts I'm replacing with new or remanufactured parts, no scrap yard parts. Also my car is 1990 MT once I get this sorted out I could maybe lend you a known good ECU and see if that gets you going. TTYL

 

[C-note89ky]

Yeah. I check the wires going to ECU and all that I kinda don’t trust the ECU. But with the 1g ECU ECMLink I’m sure you can read codes and the sensor by turning on the car and not running it. But man maybe some one with ECMLink on there 1g can answer that.

Hey thanks for keeping us all updated cause I am still right there with you and am very interested in how it gets resolved and I’m sorry I just been on the 2g.

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

With enough $$$ anything can be fixed , unfortunately the 11k I started with for this car has been depleted. I'm still waiting for jmfabrication fuel cell and some other parts I ordered for maintenance items. I have driven it 600 miles before this issue started. Car has 99997 on the clock and very little rust which is uncommon for NE states. I will update when I make more progress.

 

[C-note89ky]

With enough $$$ anything can be fixed , unfortunately the 11k I started with for this car has been depleted.

Dude I see how and why you are determined to get that beast on the road. You have a lot of love for that car.

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

Started back in 2001. My buddy has a 92 TSI AWD. I drove it once and fell in love. I was on my way to my bosses house and noticed a car in the woods. I checked it out, 91 TSI AWD, had a paper in the window for sale $1100.

I bought it and reconditioned the entire car paint and all. Was all stock aside from K&N filter in stock can, balance shaft delete, and a MBC. Turned up to 18 psi and boy she moved. That car cost me $6500 after rebuild was completed.

The engineering for the drive line was impressive then and still better than most modern cars. Unfortunately my baby momma made me sell it in 2002. Fast forward 20 years and my search for another DSM found me this 1990 TSI AWD with 99k on the clock. It didn't run and engine was stuck. Tires were rotted out, brakes seized, fuel pump rotted out, fuel lines rotted out, brake lines rotted out, ECU no good etc. I replaced all that got it started and running good. Was able to drive long enough to sort out boost leaks and then this situation came up.

I can't stop fixing it now, I'm in too deep and sold my 2013 Fusion to Carvana. So this is what I have to work with. Until it's fixed I'm on foot.

 

[pauleyman]

You don't need ECMLink to check codes. It's easier but not necessary. You need a test light or analog voltmeter.

1G - 1g Code Reader - CEL CODE READER

This is a How-To on figuring out your Check engine light (CEL) for 1g.Tools: Volt Meter or LEDConnection: Connect the positive of the volt meter or LED to pin #1 and the ground to #12 pin on the port. You must be registered to see element.After you got that done, turn your key to the ON...

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