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Ifinite gsx your in the wrong here. 2 years on cheapy tires? Obvious you haven't put too many miles on it for them to last that long and be as good as when you bought them.

Ok so your saying going with excessive camber and and moving the majority of stress on the inside tire and less on the outside will not change tire wear at all? Mmhmm........ooookk.

Yes negative camber improves steering stability but if you'd just use your head fir two seconds you would know what else happens when increasing steering stability. UNDERSTEERincreases! so your ridiculous camber absorbs your body roll better. Guess what your car, no longer steers,as,good.

But you being a guy who lives by and vouches for a, honda article it don't guess we can expect you to understand.

I wonder Lemans, indy, nascar and others haven't caught on to this??????? Damn you honda guys,are freaking genious's!!! Quick go tell them! LOL
 
Today I said something mean to someone who was incapable of understanding that I was being mean. I could have just written this off as not actually being mean, but I couldn't in all conscience do that, so I sentenced myself to reading this thread.

I'm now free!
 
I am not trying to be an asshole or anything. Your rears tires probably have a -3 degrees camber and the fronts probably -1.75-2.00 degrees camber. I don't know who has been telling you that camber doesn't wear tires but the only suspension spec that doesn't effect tire wear is CASTER. It is the pitch of the of the suspension forward and backward of the front radiator support. Camber will still wear the hell out of tires especially at that much negative amount. You will learn soon enough though when the very inside edge of your tires start wearing. I have been doing alignments on car for about 10 years now and have done cars like lambos,lowered G35 and 350z,lowered hondas and etc. I am not hating on your car I like the wheels on the car but damn dose it need an alignment. Here is a diagram that is straight forward for you to understand.
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Cool Story Bro's! LOL The tires are 225/40/18. Fitment was great. Wheel size, offset and tire size were just perfect, I couldn't have asked for better. The Conquest is ehh. Has a built motor, MegaSquirt, HX35 but still needs a little work. Actually a lot.
 
I wonder Lemans, indy, nascar and others haven't caught on to this??????? Damn you honda guys,are freaking genious's!!! Quick go tell them! LOL
Is that why Lemans, Indy, NASCAR and others HAVE been using Camber, Caster and Toe adjustments to affect handling? I see it all the time on NASCAR. Every damn race they have some team messing with the negative and positive camber to aim for better handling. Have you ever seen a Road Race Stock Car? More Negative camber on both sides than my car.

Oddly enough, zero camber isn't always best. Manufacturers build the average street car with slightly positive camber. Race cars use even sharper camber or tilts.
To understand how turns change the game, imagine a car with zero camber on a perfectly level road. When it makes a sharp left, the car -- tires included -- will tilt to the right. At this# point, the wheels' camber is no longer zero relative to the ground. The tilted tires are now sharing less surface area with the road and consequently have less grip.
When performance drivers want maximum cornering control, they put negative camber on all wheels. This way, during a turn, the entire tread surfaces of the outside tires -- which carry more weight than the inside ones -- achieving optimum grip. For those who want to increase street cornering performance, experts recommend a half a degree of negative camber [source: Alexander]. But since cornering performance is especially important for a race car, each of its wheels has a steeper angle of negative camber.
HowStuffWorks "Why is camber so critical in NASCAR?"

Any more questions?
 
Is that why Lemans, Indy, NASCAR and others HAVE been using Camber, Caster and Toe adjustments to affect handling? I see it all the time on NASCAR. Every damn race they have some team messing with the negative and positive camber to aim for better handling. Have you ever seen a Road Race Stock Car? More Negative camber on both sides than my car.




HowStuffWorks "Why is camber so critical in NASCAR?"

Any more questions?

Yes, my question is, how does one get so dumb that they think that because some negative caster is beneficial that the person quoting the article cannot comprehend in their mind that some = good, a lot = bad.

Actually, that's not a question, just a summary of you.

225s...the smallest size recommended on 8 inch wide rims, on a 9.5...your points are just so much more valid now.
 
I guess this is VW Vortex now...

Yeah you are right, the car looks like ass! :hellyeah:

Yes, my question is, how does one get so dumb that they think that because some negative caster is beneficial that the person quoting the article cannot comprehend in their mind that some = good, a lot = bad.

Actually, that's not a question, just a summary of you.

225s...the smallest size recommended on 8 inch wide rims, on a 9.5...your points are just so much more valid now.

I don't have a lot of camber. I don't have any caster changes from stock. And I don't have a 9.5" rim. Why must we all be the same, with tires that look like shit on our wheels, with ugly small wheels, with 4x4 suspension. Sorry, I don't like your car. BUT! The difference here is I never said a thing about it. Quit while your ahead. Your points make no valid sense. Your just arguing to argue. You say one thing, I say another. I see all the proof of Camber and tire and this and that and bla.... I Will take the articled, proven facts over what someone who doesn't know anything but driving straight. Sorry.

Enjoy the rest of your night. :notgood:
 
Yeah they use adjustments not excessivness. And they use it to counter act the forces that change their grip pad as they are going around corners faster than you ever will. Not to mention their tires sure as,hell do not sit on their frame.

And just like a big turbo makes your car go faster it also wears,out your engine faster. Just like negative camber helps steering stability at higher speeds it will also wear out your inside tires faster. You still have yet to prove it doesn't.

As per your own posts "experts" recommend half a degree for street cars. Not two or,three. No where does it say excessive camber does not wear tires faster. All it did was,confirm what I said. Higher camber, higher stabilty, more understeer, & abnormal tire wear.

Anymore questions?
 
OP:


I hate you. It looks so good. Yet so pricey. sigh...

Get those wheels aligned though. No sense in burning through tires from bad TOE.


PS: im rocking 5 spoke 18's on my car, its just not as slammed as yours.
 
I was aiming for the Fronts, +25mm, Which would give me half an inch more room to play with. But its whatever. Replica Fronts are +24mm. For those who are soo anal about negative camber. I'm thinking of getting some adjustable bottom control arms to relieve some of the camber but I like the way it looks. I'll get the Alignment done as soon as the car starts. I've been on bad alignment anyway since I got this body. Did it myself just because I had to install new tie rod ends. So that has to be done anyway.
 
Whats soo wrong with that? There is a trailing arm that is adjustable. There is an arm to adjust the toe of the rear wheels and why not adjust the bottom control arms a little? Is it really that "OMG?"? The axle has enough play. So what is soo wrong with it?

Oh wait, let me guess.... "Its a DSM?" Ford has adjustable bottom control arms, Honda, Nissan. People make aftermarket control arms with adjustments on each side.
 
If you can find out how to adjust camber by using a lower control arm, I'd be impressed. It's always done by the upper control arm (either via adjustable ball join or shimming the inner mounting brackets). The only arms that are adjustable are tie rods for toe. Anything else down there that'd be adjustable would be custom control arms.


While you're down there looking for some adjustability for camber, just check where your lower lateral arms are on all 4 wheels in relation to parallel. My guess is they'll all be severely angled downward from the wheels (highest point) to the subframes (lowest point). This = no good.
 
If you can find out how to adjust camber by using a lower control arm, I'd be impressed. It's always done by the upper control arm (either via adjustable ball join or shimming the inner mounting brackets). The only arms that are adjustable are tie rods for toe. Anything else down there that'd be adjustable would be custom control arms.


While you're down there looking for some adjustability for camber, just check where your lower lateral arms are on all 4 wheels in relation to parallel. My guess is they'll all be severely angled downward from the wheels (highest point) to the subframes (lowest point). This = no good.

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Look at that! Those bottom arms look adjustable, Now why would he do that? Whats the point of that adjustment? If he were to tighten the arm, it would pull the bottom of the wheels/tires inward.... which would relieve some of the camber. A quarter of an inch would only be a fraction of play in the axle
 

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Glad you can find pictures of a 1g with custom control arms (as I mentioned). Either way, unless you plan on making customer lower control arms just to change camber, you won't be having that option on your car as it sits. Sorry I worded that wrong - you won't find adjustment with your current lower control arms. I never said it was impossible, but it's definitely not the way most people go considering how easy/cheap it is to space out the upper control arm mounting brackets.
 
No I know. I know other cars come with adjustments. My Civic did, I've seen it on tons of other cars. Not this car. But Don't see why it would be bad to make a little bit of adjustment down there, esp. on how cheap it is to build something like that, to alleviate some of the Camber. The main issue with Camber is not the tire wear, or the handling failure, its everyone who has something to say about it. No matter who does it. If someone brought one of those road race stars like mentioned above in here and they agreed on the things I was saying, everyone else would still be arguing with me. But it really doesn't matter. I love my car. And I'm glad 90% of the other people that has seen it love it too. :) I really appreciate it.
 
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Looking at a setup from watkins glen in a sprint cup car.., I'm showing -1.0 camber in the rear and -2.0 in the front. So you're just flat wrong talking about all the camber they run. Obviously you don't run your car anywhere. It would corner absolutely terrible. It's amazing how people think by lowering their car it will somehow handle better due to negative camber. You need to change the geometry not just toe,camber,caster..
 
Yes, as it seems you've found on, 2g's don't have anything but toe adjustability from the factory. Building custom lower control arms won't be cheap by any means. If you can find out a ball joint setup that will work, please let the rest of the community know. From my knowledge, there are only 1-2 people on here that have figured something out. And it will run you a few hundred just for the ball joints and good heim joints. Not to mention the rest of the parts needed to construct. All when you could spend <$40 on some longer bolts and washers for the upper control arm mounts.

It really depends on what your intentions are when it comes to camber. If you're just cruising around town and want a lot of negative camber (and it clears everything), then no, it won't really affect handling. It will cause some tire wear but nothing that will kill your tires in a month. If you're tracking your car on a road course and have your camber set incorrectly, it could be disastrous. This is why people take 3 temps on the tires, use shoe paint on the sidewall, and those lucky people who get access to a skid pad all make sure to get camber set correctly. You go through an off-camber turn and have things set wrong, I'm sure you can imagine what could possibly go wrong.

For reference, in my car I've prepped for a road course, I'm running -2.6&#176; in the front and -1.7&#176; in the rear. Both of these values are higher than most properly aligned DSM's run.
 
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