I assume his car is a 2G since you say you tried the rear O2.

Would you post a log so we can see how you configured it and verify the color of the ECU wire your currently connected to along with the fact that nothing else it connected to that wire.

steve said:

I assume his car is a 2G since you say you tried the rear O2.

Would you post a log so we can see how you configured it and verify the color of the ECU wire your currently connected to along with the fact that nothing else it connected to that wire.

Click to expand...

Hey Steve, This good friend of mine is the one helping me out. Here is the log.

Regarding the Color of the wire, My yellow wire from the innovate is connect to both my gauge and the white wire (rear o2).

There shouldn't be any voltage on the yellow wire until the LC-2 thinks it is warmed up.
"The default voltage output is set at 0 volts for both the Warm-up and Error Condition." (from the manual)
What we've been seeing in here is that it usually takes about 30 seconds from starting the engine, before your RawLC1WB voltage in the log will show more than 0 volts.
I don't know how long it takes if you don't start the engine running, which is what this log has, no crank no start.

There is another delay in the "NBO22 sim" tab, but that is only 15 seconds, and I imagine you've gone past that. You can change that number to whatever you want.

Always have the raw voltage displayed. Sometimes it can give a clue.

One time we looked at this problem on somebody's car and it finally turned out that he thought he had it on #75 but actually it was on #76 (or maybe it was vice-versa). Easy to do since both wires are white.
But as I remember in his case, he wasn't getting 0.0 raw volts. He was getting about 4.7 volts, which on some of these inputs means there is actually nothing connected to it.

lglracer said:

There is 5v at the yellow wire on the LC2 which is full lean. The ECU is seeing 0v or 7.3afr.

Click to expand...

At the same time?
When you saw 5v on the yellow wire, was the yellow wire also connected to the ecu at the same time, or was the yellow wire just out in the air so you could connect it only to a multimeter?
Or with the Innovate gauge maybe? What exactly was the scenario here?

HyeToki said:

Hey Steve, This good friend of mine is the one helping me out. Here is the log.

Regarding the Color of the wire, My yellow wire from the innovate is connect to both my gauge and the white wire (rear o2).

Click to expand...

What do you mean the yellow wire is to the gauge and ecu?

Thanks for the reply Yall!

I am currently not home to check the wires at the moment, but I do remember how everything was plugged in, and I made an outline showing exactly how everything was connected.

I also want to mention that the car was purchased with an AEM standalone ECU and was already wired up with sensors, COPs that were spliced into the AEM standalone ECU harness, and other goodies.

Regarding the yellow wire, I tested it with a voltmeter, and it showed 5.0V from the start of the yellow wire (Innovate) and 5.0V where the yellow wire is connected to pin 75 (white wire).

There was already another wire connected to the yellow wire, so I didn’t want to mess with that. Instead, I connected all three wires together. If you look at the picture, the wire (colored pink) went up toward the dash along with the power and ground wires, which made me think it was for the gauge. (I may be wrong.)

I also wanted to note that the OUTPUT was already connected to something, but that may have been for something else as well. I never followed the wire to see where it went.

I figured my next step would be to completely remove the wideband and reinstall it so I can understand exactly where all the wires are going.

I’m not sure if this makes a difference, but with the AEM ECU on, the car starts and runs, but with ECMlink, it does not. This was before I removed all the other sensors. The motor I am currently running is a 1G 6-bolt from a Galant (E39A). The swap happened about three months ago, but the AEM was already tuned for my old 7-bolt, and it was not running well with the new 6-bolt, especially with the timing.

I would start over.
Download the LC2 instructions or see the ecmlink link I sent. Do not connect the wire
Here is a snip of wiring from innovate

HyeToki said:

There was already another wire connected to the yellow wire, so I didn’t want to mess with that. Instead, I connected all three wires together. If you look at the picture, the wire (colored pink) went up toward the dash along with the power and ground wires, which made me think it was for the gauge. (I may be wrong.)

Click to expand...

If the pink wire goes to the gauge, then the gauge should show max AFR (~22) at the same time that your multimeter shows 5 volts. Does it do that?

Why is there a note on your picture that says "Nothing connected to the ECU (Pin 75)"?

HyeToki said:

I also wanted to note that the OUTPUT was already connected to something, but that may have been for something else as well. I never followed the wire to see where it went.

Click to expand...

This would be a little connector that you can optionally connect to your computer if you want to use their LogWorks software or their LM Programmer. The connector you see plugs into a serial cable that was supposed to come with the LC-2, and then that serial cable will have to plug into a serial to USB adapter, which then finally you can plug into your computer. That is sort-of described in section 5.3 of the manual.

You haven't said anything about the green status light on the LC-2 module.
As far as I know, you should be getting some kind of voltage on the yellow wire when the green status light is lit up solid (steady). Probably you'd get 5 volts if the car is just sitting there not running. But there are flashing codes for warmup, calibration, no power, or red light. Codes given in section 1 of the manual.

HyeToki said:

Regarding the yellow wire, I tested it with a voltmeter, and it showed 5.0V from the start of the yellow wire (Innovate) and 5.0V where the yellow wire is connected to pin 75 (white wire).

Click to expand...

Was the voltmeter showing 5 volts at the *same time* that ECMlink was showing ~7.3 AFR?
Was the green status light on steady during this test?

Here's a copy of the LC-2 manual:

If the pink wire goes to the gauge, then the gauge should show max AFR (~22) at the same time that your multimeter shows 5 volts. Does it do that?

Click to expand...

When the car is on the ON/RUN position, The gauge shows 22.2 AFR. While it is on, i did tested the voltage, it does show 5v from the yellow wire.

Why is there a note on your picture that says "Nothing connected to the ECU (Pin 75)"?

Click to expand...

In regards to the picture saying Nothing is connect to ecu PIN 75, We pull out pin 75 to connect it straight to the yellow wire. so nothing is plug into slot 75.

As far as I know, you should be getting some kind of voltage on the yellow wire when the green status light is lit up solid (steady)

Click to expand...

Green light is solid, no flashing lights, no red lights.

Was the voltmeter showing 5 volts at the *same time* that ECMlink was showing ~7.3 AFR?
Was the green status light on steady during this test?

Click to expand...

Yes, Volts shows 5v when tested, light was green and steady.


Quick question here, looking for some knowlegde. If the innovate LC2 isnt running right, will that cause my car not to even crank over? After the switch from AEM to ECMlink, Car cranks but dont turn on. My good friend who posted this post, is stating that the ECU is cutting fuel.

HyeToki said:

Quick question here, looking for some knowlegde. If the innovate LC2 isnt running right, will that cause my car not to even crank over? After the switch from AEM to ECMlink, Car cranks but dont turn on. My good friend who posted this post, is stating that the ECU is cutting fuel.

Click to expand...

I assume you mean start/run/fire and that your starter is working which is what cranking is.
The wideband not working usually wouldn't cause the engine to not start. You have a really powerful tool that can give us all insight as to what's going on and all you have to do is log the attempt to start and share the log.

steve said:

I assume you mean start/run/fire and that your starter is working which is what cranking is.
The wideband not working usually wouldn't cause the engine to not start. You have a really powerful tool that can give us all insight as to what's going on and all you have to do is log the attempt to start and share the log.

Click to expand...

I thought I posted the log already, sorry. This is my first time using ECMLink, or really doing anything involving logging, harnesses, or wiring, so it’s not something I’m very knowledgeable about yet , But I’m willing to learn and gain some knowledge from you guys.


If that wasn’t the correct log, I’ll make sure to post the right one tonight

I only see the one you posted where nothing was going on.

HyeToki said:

In regards to the picture saying Nothing is connect to ecu PIN 75, We pull out pin 75 to connect it straight to the yellow wire. so nothing is plug into slot 75.

Click to expand...

So no signal is going to the ECU?

HyeToki said:

In regards to the picture saying Nothing is connect to ecu PIN 75, We pull out pin 75 to connect it straight to the yellow wire. so nothing is plug into slot 75.

Click to expand...

I don't understand this. It sounds like you don't have input 75 connected to anything.
Can you take a picture looking at the ecu with all the plugs plugged into it?
Take it so we can see the wires going into the plugs, especially the wires going to inputs 75 and 76.

Here goes the logs and pictures.

Ok thanks for the pics and the log.
Here I've marked up the 1st pic with an orange arrow pointed right at where the white wire to ECU input #75 is chopped off. Looks to me like it just ends there with nothing connected to it.



So you don't have anything connected to pin #75. That is the Rear O2. That is where you have told the ECU to find your wideband. And it can't find it because there is nothing connected to #75. The white wire from #75 just ends in the air.
Sure enough in the log, the RawLC1WB voltage is 0.00 volts.

You need to connect your yellow LC-2 wire to that chopped off white wire that goes into #75.

Also in my marked up picture we can see that the next white wire (#76) goes somewhere but can't see where. Is that wire still going to where it went stock? It should go to your Front O2 sensor which is the normal stock type oxygen sensor. Is that still in the car?

The FrontO2 signal that we see in the log is not right because you have narrowband simulation turned on, which simulates a signal from your wideband, which isn't working yet. Even once you get the wideband working, it would be better to turn off narrowband simulation if you still have the stock type oxygen sensor in the car. Let the narrowband signal (FrontO2) be generated by a real narrowband.

In this log we can see cranking. Yay! It is cranking at about 200 rpm. Battery voltage during your crank is about 10.8 volts which is very good.

It is not cutting fuel during the crank period because the Injector On time is about 9 milliseconds all through it. That's about normal during cranking. Your Global Fuel number is set up for injectors of about 1100cc. Are your injectors about 1100cc?

Other good things from the log:
Keystart is working. The ECU sees the ignition switch in the START position.

Bad things:
TPS voltage it too low. Since I don't see any TPS movement or the IPS changing state I can't say if it's just an adjustment issue.
The MAP sensor is glitching and it's value while cranking is questionable. I'd expect more vacuum, especially when it's reporting -2.2 at rest and only -3.2 during cranking.

You need to connect your yellow LC-2 wire to that chopped off white wire that goes into #75.

Click to expand...

Thanks! will do that tonight!

Also in my marked up picture we can see that the next white wire (#76) goes somewhere but can't see where. Is that wire still going to where it went stock? It should go to your Front O2 sensor which is the normal stock type oxygen sensor. Is that still in the car?

Click to expand...

When i had the AEM Inifinity ECU, the front OEM o2 was removed and replaced with a Bosch O2 Sensor that was connected directly to the AEM ECU itself.

When i removed the AEM, I also removed the Bosch O2 and added a Stock O2 Sensor and connect it back to the harness. I did check the wire, it was going to the front O2.

Let the narrowband signal (FrontO2) be generated by a real narrowband.

Click to expand...

I will make sure to do that and send a log

It is not cutting fuel during the crank period because the Injector On time is about 9 milliseconds all through it. That's about normal during cranking. Your Global Fuel number is set up for injectors of about 1100cc. Are your injectors about 1100cc?

Click to expand...

Yes, I had 1000cc (High Flow) Injectors when my car was tuned on the AEM standalone, and still currently have it on with ECMlink.

I also took the necessary step to re-wire the injector resistor pack.

Pic:



Steve:

TPS voltage it too low. Since I don't see any TPS movement or the IPS changing state I can't say if it's just an adjustment issue.
The MAP sensor is glitching and it's value while cranking is questionable. I'd expect more vacuum, especially when it's reporting -2.2 at rest and only -3.2 during cranking.

Click to expand...

Voltage was low when i did the log, but i did charge it over night today. It was sitting in the garage for a bit while i sort this ECM problem out. Usually runs about 13.5v-14.v when on and running.

For the MAP sensor, When i had the AEM standalone, the AEM MAP sensor was connected directly to the AEM itself. But since the switch, i had to re-wire it to the MDP because with the 1g, there was no need for the MDP.

The AEM MAP sensor is a 3.5 bar and is using the break booster was the vacuum source.






This is what i did when switching over from AEM to ECM.

The car was wired for COP (Toyota Yaris coils). I removed the COP setup and reinstalled the PTU because it had been completely removed. I also added the original coils back because of the firing order for the 1G motor. I figured it would be easier for me to work on the car this way and then reinstall the COP setup later, once everything is up and running.





The Car never had a IAT Sensor installed on it, because the last owner had it tuned without it. So i decided to add on in myself and wired it to the IAT ECMLink wiring harness adapter.




So this is a 95 GSX so the Cam and crank sensor are in 2 places, and with the 1g 6 bolt swap, i bought STM re-wire kit to 1g CAS to 2g.
I also did follow the necessary steps to switch the firing order, and also re-pin the ecu.

Green: Pin 1 is now 14
Green w/ yellow stripe: Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Green w/ red stripe: Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Yellow w/ black stripe: Pin 14 is now Pin 15





The other sensor that has been removed completely until i get the car running is:

[All these sensor was connected directly to AEM ECU and was removed)

Fuel Pressure Sensor (to AFPR)
Oil Pressure Sensor
AEM Boost control solenoid
Boost Controller (Dial nob)
Front o2 Bosch Sensor
Flex Fuel Sensor

All these sensors will be put back on, once my car is in working order.

I haven't followed this thread but have you ruled out potential failed splices?

There is a lot of debate between crimp vs solder wire connections. Both types, if done properly, work well. But I couldn't help but notice some of your splices (and one pic shows bare wire exposed). Hopefully they are temporary because wire nuts do not belong in automotive wiring. Too much vibration and other variables that can lead to corrosion, weak, failed, or shorted splices.

dwb said:

I haven't followed this thread but have you ruled out potential failed splices?

There is a lot of debate between crimp vs solder wire connections. Both types, if done properly, work well. But I couldn't help but notice some of your splices (and one pic shows bare wire exposed). Hopefully they are temporary because wire nuts do not belong in automotive wiring. Too much vibration and other variables that can lead to corrosion, weak, failed, or shorted splices.

Click to expand...

The wiring is pretty much everywhere right now as seen on the picture and will be organized and tucked once the car is up and running.

Everything is all temporary until I can get the car up and running.

HyeToki said:

The AEM MAP sensor is a 3.5 bar and is using the break booster was the vacuum source.

Click to expand...

What is your elevation there? Are you at about 2,000 feet of elevation?

Are you going to have a brake booster in the car?
If you are going to have a brake booster, it would be better to Tee your MAP sensor hose into the little hose that goes from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator.

HyeToki said:

1000cc (High Flow) Injectors

Click to expand...

Do you mean your injectors are Hi-Z (high impedance)?

We're on Boost said:

What is your elevation there? Are you at about 2,000 feet of elevation?

Are you going to have a brake booster in the car?
If you are going to have a brake booster, it would be better to Tee your MAP sensor hose into the little hose that goes from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator.



Do you mean your injectors are Hi-Z (high impedance)?

Click to expand...

According to my elevation right now where I live, it is 35ft.

And yes my injectors are Hi-Z 1000cc grams

HyeToki said:

According to my elevation right now where I live, it is 35ft.

Click to expand...

Darn it. That means your MAP sensor reading in the Aug 26 log is wrong.
When you are not cranking it, the MAP says -2.2 inHg. That would be 27.72 inHg absolute pressure.
You would have to be at an elevation of about 2,000 feet to get a reading like that.
Since you are very near sea level, it's impossible.

Your scaling for the MAP is ok per the AEM chart.
Your Altitude shown in the MAP/MDP Preferences is 0 which is close enough.

So there is something else wrong.
It could be a bad wire splice somewhere in the signal wire that goes from the MAP sensor to the ecu, or in the sensor ground wire, maybe even the sensor power wire. Hopefully that's all it is. You should learn how to use crimp fittings and have a good stiff crimper to crimp them with. Soldering is ok if you know what you are doing. But in aircraft like the large Boeing commercial airplanes, the only place you see solder is on a circuit board. All the wires that run around everywhere in the airplane are crimped - or so the guys in the wiring group tell me.

It might be a bad sensor - damaged or defective.

Or it could be a sensor that is shifted one way or the other from the nominal scaling in a way that we could custom scale it with Linear Boost.

Probably what you should do is connect only power and ground to the MAP sensor and leave the signal terminal open so you can get at it with your multimeter/voltmeter. You should be getting a voltage there of about 1.67 volts when it's just sitting at atmospheric pressure. That's a little higher than what the ecu is reading which is 1.59 volts. It's not a huge difference, so maybe it could be due to lousy wire splices, I don't know. Bad splices could be knocking down the signal voltage from the sensor a little bit.

We're on Boost said:

Darn it. That means your MAP sensor reading in the Aug 26 log is wrong.
When you are not cranking it, the MAP says -2.2 inHg. That would be 27.72 inHg absolute pressure.
You would have to be at an elevation of about 2,000 feet to get a reading like that.
Since you are very near sea level, it's impossible.

Your scaling for the MAP is ok per the AEM chart.
Your Altitude shown in the MAP/MDP Preferences is 0 which is close enough.

So there is something else wrong.
It could be a bad wire splice somewhere in the signal wire that goes from the MAP sensor to the ecu, or in the sensor ground wire, maybe even the sensor power wire. Hopefully that's all it is. You should learn how to use crimp fittings and have a good stiff crimper to crimp them with. Soldering is ok if you know what you are doing. But in aircraft like the large Boeing commercial airplanes, the only place you see solder is on a circuit board. All the wires that run around everywhere in the airplane are crimped - or so the guys in the wiring group tell me.

It might be a bad sensor - damaged or defective.

Or it could be a sensor that is shifted one way or the other from the nominal scaling in a way that we could custom scale it with Linear Boost.

Probably what you should do is connect only power and ground to the MAP sensor and leave the signal terminal open so you can get at it with your multimeter/voltmeter. You should be getting a voltage there of about 1.67 volts when it's just sitting at atmospheric pressure. That's a little higher than what the ecu is reading which is 1.59 volts. It's not a huge difference, so maybe it could be due to lousy wire splices, I don't know. Bad splices could be knocking down the signal voltage from the sensor a little bit.t

Click to expand...

Thank you and everyone in this post for the information yall have given me.

I guess we narrow it down to either a wire problem or even the sensors can be bad. Most likely it may be a wiring problem since it was on AEM before with the last owner.

What I am going to do first is check all the pins (using the ecu pin diagram) to see if the grounds and voltages match up.

Don’t mind putting my mind into learning these wiring and electrical components, just don’t want to fry the ecu .

I do have 2 questions:
1. I have a set of 97-99 GST engine harness, what is the difference (I have a 95 gsx). I do understand that the CAS are different but is that it? Most likely, if my engine harness is too cut up, I will just swap it out and make a clean slate with the wiring.

2. My MPI relay don’t click when on the on position, but it does click a few second later when I turn it off.