Maybe try a leak down test.

I will do a leak down test what other test I have to check? Maybe measure the oil pressure ?

Another idea is to add floresent dye to the oil and go for a nice long spirited drive. Then go back through cc breathers, intake/turbo, and valve stems (this one might be tough) with a black light.

I'd also double check the turbo drain is flowing freely.

The turbo is new and I made sure everything is ok with the drain . It drives me crazy were the leak is

TasosEclipse said:

The turbo is new and I made sure everything is ok with the drain . It drives me crazy were the leak is

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You didn't happen to use any RTV when installing the drain?

Did you notice if this issue gradually happened or all at once?

All at once I saw oil on the charge pipes and so I get the turbo checked and told me it needed new so I changed the turbo but the problem still persist.
Another question how much oil you put on the car.

TasosEclipse said:

Another question how much oil you put on the car.

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5 quarts

That’s how much I put on I don’t know anything else I have to check.

TasosEclipse said:

All at once I saw oil on the charge pipes and so I get the turbo checked and told me it needed new so I changed the turbo but the problem still persist.
Another question how much oil you put on the car.

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TasosEclipse said:

nothing on the inlet

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I thought there was no oil in the charge pipes? If there's oil in the charge pipes it's either PCV going back into the inlet of the turbo or your turbo is leaking oil into the compressor housing.

yes it was the turbo i changed to a new turbo and stopped but the oil consumption did not

TasosEclipse said:

yes it was the turbo i changed to a new turbo and stopped but the oil consumption did not

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Okay, understood now.

1) check your oil level and make sure it's not too high. This could cause the crank to spin into the oil and make excessive oil vapors while running.

2) check your valves through the intake and exhaust ports. If your valve guides or seals are leak leaking you'll have burned up / oil coating them and it's fairly obvious.

Did you make sure below one by one to determine the location where the oil coming from? You should do it first and then next you would figure why leaking and fix it.
- Oil pressure isn't too high?
- Inside intake pipe, intercooler and its pipings dry or wet by oil?
- Throttle body inlet/outlet dry or wet?
- Inside intake manifold tank dry or wet?
- Inside intake manifold runners dry or wet?
- Cylinder head inlet ports/intake valves dry or wet?
- Piston top dry or wet?
- Check inside cylinder with a borescope?
- Exhaust ports/valves dry or wet?
- Turbine housing outlet/O2 housing dry or wet?
- Inside exhaust pipe dry or wet?

TasosEclipse said:

If something was wrong with pistons or piston rings I haven’t seen in the compression test?

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Compression test number doesn't always 100% guarantee that the cylinder has a good oil control, like it's common if you have ring land failure or so. Because as long as the top ring works fine to seal, you would see a good number but the top ring is not for scraping oil.
As for the crankcase pressure under boost, I am confused. Did you mean that it's between minus 0.2 bar to zero bar in gauge? If so, I think something is not right with the measurement unless you are running a crankcase vacuum pump. -0.2 bar is nearly 6 inHg.

Yes I put on the hose from the head to a boost gauge to check it when idling it was -0.2 -0.3 and when in boost it was 0.

What about cc pressure after high load/high boost and immediately shifting gears? If I understand correctly (and AI isnt spewing bs), that's when you see max cc pressure.

What is cc?