The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Your most recent welding pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

How much was that model tig sax?




What do you guys like for the angle on the tip..I always liked mine a little sharper,even tho sometimes that sharp tip would mess me up..

It's around $1750 new and on sale. Look at the lincoln site
 
How much was that model tig sax?




What do you guys like for the angle on the tip..I always liked mine a little sharper,even tho sometimes that sharp tip would mess me up..

As far as I know, this welder has been here probably a decade or more.

Do you guys grind the tungsten differently for SS or Al? I was told to grind it to a point for SS but a "ball" end for Al, but it doesn't seem to work that great on the Al. I'm wondering if a point would be better.
 
It's a transformer machine so it will ball on it's own. I grind my tungsten to a sharp point for everything.
I'm on an inverter so it won't ball up anyway.
 
Last edited:
It's a transformer machine so it will ball on it's own. I grind my tungsten to a sharp point for everything.
I'm on a transformer so it won't ball up anyway.

For clarity, first transformer in this post = inverter and the second transformer = transformer. Also, a sharp point isn't ideal. Much easier to over heat the small surface area and have it "break off" and become an inclusion. I usually put a very small flat on the end of my tungstens.
 
Starting to put the baffle together. Few more tack welds to go.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Good rule of thumb is no more than the diameter of the cup.

Unless you habe a gas lens


I habe officially come to the conclusion stainless steel will not change color unless sanded/reeeaally cleaned. Experimented with nasty sch10 ss i ha laying around and welde looked burnt, cleaned metal tried again, COLORS! Didn't get pix but will soon when i do more. Lol i get lazy sometimes need a pipe sander
 
Unless you habe a gas lens


I habe officially come to the conclusion stainless steel will not change color unless sanded/reeeaally cleaned. Experimented with nasty sch10 ss i ha laying around and welde looked burnt, cleaned metal tried again, COLORS! Didn't get pix but will soon when i do more. Lol i get lazy sometimes need a pipe sander

Do a weld less than 1/2" long and crank up the post flow and boom you get colors.
 
Not with a diversion, anyone ever use the hardin pipe sander polisher?

I mean it will change cor. Just not as much as if it was clean.

n00b.
Back off on the pedal at the end of the weld until are at less than 10 amps. It's not enough to keep the puddle molten but you are letting it cool with gas coverage. No need for post flow adjustment.
 
It's the post flow.
Technically you can call it heat. If you let the argon gas cover the weld until it cools it will give you colors. When it doesn't cool properly it turns grey and ugly.
 
n00b.
Back off on the pedal at the end of the weld until are at less than 10 amps. It's not enough to keep the puddle molten but you are letting it cool with gas coverage. No need for post flow adjustment.



:ohdamn: didnt think of keeping it on 10amp just for extra post flow. wouldn't really work for thin gauge sheet metal as much, but i see what you mean. Or an external to the torch flow nob.

ive been in the middle of renovating my first house i just bought, been really busy, no time for DSM or welding lately LOL
 
here are a few of mine from a while ago! some 316 stainless and some 1050 aluminum.

The cobra there is not done by me but i am working on extending the front part of the chassis for the bigger engine. its a genuine chassis and once finished is worth about 120k british pounds!!!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
:ohdamn: didnt think of keeping it on 10amp just for extra post flow. wouldn't really work for thin gauge sheet metal as much, but i see what you mean. Or an external to the torch flow nob.

ive been in the middle of renovating my first house i just bought, been really busy, no time for DSM or welding lately LOL

10 or as low as you can go.
Throw that handle out the window and get a normal handle and cable.
 
Got a pic of someone that installed my honda catch can :)
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Lol on my maxstar and dynasty I actually use a WP-17 with a flex head and gas valve.

Ironic because both can set pre and post flow. But I like to control by sight rather than programmed seconds.



I usually don't brush my SS. Just use acetone to wipe it clean.

And on some jobs nothing but a grinder bevel. No cleaning at all.


Rate of travel, hear input, flow rate from torch, purge, material base temp, lots of factors.

In reality the less contamination (oil, grease, tape residue, iron dust) on the material and a low ppm of oxygen content would make the least of "color" which is actually bad.


I don't like seeing in order Black edges, grey, dark purple, or dark blues.
 
I have a flex head with a gas valve also but my gas goes straight into my diversion, also wp17 gamble you seem to be the expert in modded diversions, how would i rig that up?


......good lord i need a dynasty 350 i habe someone to buy my diversion for 2200

No you want gold, and not a burnt look either LOL
 
Now I don't know about diversions but.



This is my set up on my Maxstar

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I still leave the machine on tig mode and have the stronger connected, it is attached to a "power block". Which has a gas hose running from my dual flowmeter connected to one side, and then a standard gas/cable tig lead.


This way you can turn on your gas with the torch valve and let it preflow for a while and turn it off when ever you are done welding.





If I had pics (can't find) I would show some SS and titanium welds I did in a purge chamber a few years ago. There is literally no heat tint. The ppm of oxygen was less than 10.

And my machine was connected to an oxygen monitor that could cut power if the ppm got to high. Which probably wouldn't happen unless the chamber was leaking.

But absolutely no heat tint. None. No color just silver. But welding progression and inter pass temp had to stay monitored also.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top