Your most recent welding pics

[JayRome]

my recent steam pipe manifold...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[mike96]

Time for me to toss a couple of pics of my welding.... So let the comments roll in... Mind you this was done on a MIG welder that is not exactly correctly for welding on aluminum... I still need some practice but I am getting there

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Mishimoto]

Lots of awesome welds here!
This is a skill i need to personally learn in the next few years.
Keep it up guys.

 

[BadAss4Bangers]

First time Welding MIG. A bit globby but she holds!

Strut tower before:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

MIG Welded (started grinding the welds down, forgot to snap a pic before grinding):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

im picking up a new miller Division 180 Tig in the next week or so, ill be adding to the collection. ive welded a little in highschool and a little bit recently, its sort of like riding a bike. just need to practice more but im gonna atempt a few t3 exhaust manifolds and then try my hand at a cage. cage not for my car tho haha i plan to be fully emerged in welding in the next few weeks.

 

[Gamble97]

I wouldn't touch a cage unless you have years under your belt.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I wouldn't touch a cage unless you have years under your belt.

gotta start somewhere, i was referring to a junked car...

 

[okcpopeman]

First time Welding MIG. A bit globby but she holds!

Strut tower before:

...

MIG Welded (started grinding the welds down, forgot to snap a pic before grinding):
...

Grind down your area you are welding before you weld, the paint is likely what caused the "globs" because it contaminated the bead. Prep is #1.

 

[CODE4]

316L high polish 3" cap on a tube strainer (for process systems).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Whats a good amperage to weld a fitting onto the oil pan? I wanna do this right the first time without going too hot thinking 30 amps? But it might not melt down my -12AN bung

 

[pneumo]

I've been following this thread since the beginning. There's some nice work in here!
I've been making my own stuff for a few years and helping out around the shop, but my welds were not pretty until today. I made a tubular exhaust mani for my car, and today it clicked for me. The welds felt easier, like I knew what the metal was going to do. I can still see a few imperfections, but otherwise I'm very happy with the results!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[gofer]

That does look good. Whats the setup going to be?

I've been following this thread too and the entire time I've been wishing to get a garage and a welder and start learning myself. December is just around the corner, I'll be posting up pictures of my bird shit welds in no time... LOOK OUT!

 

[pneumo]

That does look good. Whats the setup going to be?

I've been following this thread too and the entire time I've been wishing to get a garage and a welder and start learning myself. December is just around the corner, I'll be posting up pictures of my bird shit welds in no time... LOOK OUT!

Hi thanks! I made the mani with a T3 flange and it positions the turbo with plenty of clearance for a SP compressor cover, plus enough room for a full 3" exhaust while keeping the alternator and oil filter in the stock locations. The oil drain is going to be a little tricky tho.

 

[CODE4]

Whats a good amperage to weld a fitting onto the oil pan? I wanna do this right the first time without going too hot thinking 30 amps? But it might not melt down my -12AN bung

That depends on thickness of material, quality/purity of metal, etc. There are way too many factors to give a set amperage for a particular task.

If welding aluminum, several more factors such as DCEN/DCEP percentage time, background amperage, etc, depending on your welder.

 

[pneumo]

Whats a good amperage to weld a fitting onto the oil pan? I wanna do this right the first time without going too hot thinking 30 amps? But it might not melt down my -12AN bung

That's going to be tricky since the AN bung is much thicker than the oil pan. You'll need to use a different technique- apply heat near the weld zone on the AN bung first, then once you have a puddle formed, slowly move the torch and puddle toward the oil pan. Keep the welding rod close. It's not easy to get the puddle to bridge between the pan and bung since they form a 90 degree angle, so be careful with the direction you're applying the heat. You don't want to burn through the pan. Also, try to grind down the bung so there's no gap between the pan and bung. HTH and GL!

 

[Gamble97]

That's going to be tricky since the AN bung is much thicker than the oil pan. You'll need to use a different technique- apply heat near the weld zone on the AN bung first, then once you have a puddle formed, slowly move the torch and puddle toward the oil pan. Keep the welding rod close. It's not easy to get the puddle to bridge between the pan and bung since they form a 90 degree angle, so be careful with the direction you're applying the heat. You don't want to burn through the pan. Also, try to grind down the bung so there's no gap between the pan and bung. HTH and GL!

The guy that did mine a few years ago said it would have been easier for him to weld it from the inside of the pan.

If I was you, I would concentrate the heat on the bung and dip between the bung and the pan. I would start at 60-70 amps and try that. All depends on your foot control.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Thanks guys appreciate the tips, ill give it my best when. Pick up the welder, i jave a lesson with a welder friend an he is going to teach me some tips on aluminium, ill ask him the same question and post back, but if
Im desperate to have it done by someone that knows what their doing and not mess it up the first time i might go that route, good news is both are mild steel i think a pulse setting might be good to use for this project, the torch is gonna be interesting to get behind the bung where the pan lip is fir the sealing surface.

 

[Gamble97]

You don't need pulse on mild steel. You can blast the heat on mild steel.
Also using a gas lens will help because you can stick the tungsten out farther for the tighter spot.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You don't need pulse on mild steel. You can blast the heat on mild steel.
Also using a gas lens will help because you can stick the tungsten out farther for the tighter spot.

i am using a gas lens

 

[BadAss4Bangers]

Grind down your area you are welding before you weld, the paint is likely what caused the "globs" because it contaminated the bead. Prep is #1.

Thanks for the tip, I did grind down the edges where I cut before welding but, I probably did not grind down a wide enough area. I will keep in mind for when I do the other side

 

[turboglenn]

When welding a thicker piece of material to a thinner piece of material, the genral rule is to set the amperage according to the thinnest piece (say the pan is .090 thick, set amps 1amp per .001 material thickness) so set to 90 amps, then from there some people, mainly those with good pedal control will dial themselves in 15% more incase they need to blast on the thicker piece to get the puddle started.. but as mentioned, starton the thick part keeping more heat there, weaving back and forth dividign your time roughly 75% thick side , 25% thin side.. IT's almost like you start on the thick piece and run your weld down to the thin part and then immediately get your heat back up on the thick stuff, addfiller iff needed and dip back down onto the thin and reapeat!

EDIT: when removing paint to weld, ALWAYS remove and clean the areas at least 1" on both sides o the weld (so a crack would need 2 inches wide cleaned off, one inch on each side of crack

 

[Archer Fabrications]

When welding a thicker piece of material to a thinner piece of material, the genral rule is to set the amperage according to the thinnest piece (say the pan is .090 thick, set amps 1amp per .001 material thickness) so set to 90 amps, then from there some people, mainly those with good pedal control will dial themselves in 15% more incase they need to blast on the thicker piece to get the puddle started.. but as mentioned, starton the thick part keeping more heat there, weaving back and forth dividign your time roughly 75% thick side , 25% thin side.. IT's almost like you start on the thick piece and run your weld down to the thin part and then immediately get your heat back up on the thick stuff, addfiller iff needed and dip back down onto the thin and reapeat!

EDIT: when removing paint to weld, ALWAYS remove and clean the areas at least 1" on both sides o the weld (so a crack would need 2 inches wide cleaned off, one inch on each side of crack

thanks glen!!! ill have to remove the paint around the lip because the crack is very very tight. thanks for your info that helped alot!!! if i mess this up im sending you a new pan and bung glen .

 

[turboglenn]

I'm sure you'll get it with a little patience and a lot of prep work.. I've always been told ther's "three C's" to welding and they are as follows "clean, clean, clean"

but really prep is HUGE.. I keep a 30 dollar minimum on welding work here just because of those people that have a mower or something that's rusted and nasty and they call and try and tell me that it will only take 5 minutes to do.. well i'm the welder, let me make that call, and i'm not doing some half ass job of stick welding through 20 years of rust either, i'd rther not make the money than have my reputation possibly based on a weld of that type... the 30 minimum "keeps the riff-raff out"

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I'm sure you'll get it with a little patience and a lot of prep work.. I've always been told ther's "three C's" to welding and they are as follows "clean, clean, clean"

but really prep is HUGE.. I keep a 30 dollar minimum on welding work here just because of those people that have a mower or something that's rusted and nasty and they call and try and tell me that it will only take 5 minutes to do.. well i'm the welder, let me make that call, and i'm not doing some half ass job of stick welding through 20 years of rust either, i'd rther not make the money than have my reputation possibly based on a weld of that type... the 30 minimum "keeps the riff-raff out"

my local guy has a 80 minimum i friggin HATE it... and its for stuff that literally does take him 10 minutes, brand new BEP housing flapper for instance. 80 dollar minimum. so im like screw it haha, but he is giving me lessons also and letting me use his equipment until i get the miller under wraps. Still sucks though.

 

[____Kurt____]

I have been doing an ok amount of welding lately at my new job and haven't been able to grab any pics.
This is some crappy stainless that had to have no warpage so I clamped the crap out of it. This is using a Lincoln 275, I use the dynasty 350's we have over that stupid Lincoln any day but didn't have that option today.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.