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Made this one kind of quick tonight.
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Just ordered a gas lens setup for this new torch. Can't wait.
 

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Very nice! I love seeing the work of other people. It inspires and gives me something o gauge myself against.

I hope to really be able to practice my welding as much as possible. I just got an old Lincoln 225 Mig from my great uncle, so I will at least be able to stay familiar with mig. I would like to get a Tig as soon as I can.

Some more .040 aluminum I did today on a cigar box I made. I still need practice, but I have improved dramatically. I will hopefully be getting my hands on some thicker aluminum soon. I would like to see what I can do with it.

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I hope you meant 0.030 wire! Otherwise that is some serious filler :p

Looks good man. What did you use to preheat? Propane? Post heat/controlled cool down at all? I have never worked on cast material either...

.030 wire my bad LOL. I used MAP gas and a non-contact digital thermomiter to make sure I didnt heat it to much before welding then I used the powdercoating oven to controll the slow cool down :hellyeah:.

I think I went a tad overkill on the transmission welding but I ended up with all 4 wheel locking up as I was going down the road because the pin walked and caught the flywheel and shot half of it through the front of the bellhousing by the release fork, through the radiator, then out the front bumper ROFL.

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After learning how to cryotreat and shot peen gears and parts this is what I ended up with after the front diff failure (I was not the one who did the treatments to my gear sets, I just watched and helped out a bit LOL).
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Cant remember what I was making here but the plasma cutter made fast work on cutting slits through the backside of the old front diff gear after capping the backside.
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My first TIG since HS Shop. Used an Eastwood 200, Thx for the advice. Found a friend with one and I love it. Cannot wait to purchase mine.

Nothing perfect either. But I think it looks cool.
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Will have more pictures in the next week as I do the rest of the exhaust. Everything is 304 SS.
 
My first TIG since HS Shop. Used an Eastwood 200, Thx for the advice. Found a friend with one and I love it. Cannot wait to purchase mine.

Nothing perfect either. But I think it looks cool.
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Will have more pictures in the next week as I do the rest of the exhaust. Everything is 304 SS.
Looking good for not welding in a while :thumb: You can weld my shit anytime!
 
Got a new toy this weekend. Years old, never used. Literally. My great uncle was kind of a hoarder. Had loads of tools, anyways.

Lincoln 255. Not sure how old, but I know it is several years at least.

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Looking good for not welding in a while :thumb: You can weld my shit anytime!

thats bad ass!!! where did you get the pipe from? I'm guessing you custom bent it. i wish i had a mandrell bender, i need to do something just like that in vband for my t3 setup. how many bends dod you have to do to get the initial one that connects to the 4 bolt, what degree bend is it?
 
thats bad ass!!! where did you get the pipe from? I'm guessing you custom bent it. i wish i had a mandrell bender, i need to do something just like that in vband for my t3 setup. how many bends dod you have to do to get the initial one that connects to the 4 bolt, what degree bend is it?
There are other places, but i got mine from here, and its real good quality and good price for 304 stainless.
Mandrel SS
 
Started a stainless catch can and did back purging for the first time. Thoughts? Not hot enough?

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Looks like you ran it too hot or didn't have enough shielding gas flow. I'm not sure why you are trying to get full penetration or back purging on an edge joint like that but to me it seems like a waste of money and time. If it were me building that piece, I would make the cap for the tube slightly larger than the i.d. of the tube and smaller than the o.d. of the tube and then just run a outside corner fillet weld.
 
Looks like you ran it too hot or didn't have enough shielding gas flow. I'm not sure why you are trying to get full penetration or back purging on an edge joint like that but to me it seems like a waste of money and time. If it were me building that piece, I would make the cap for the tube slightly larger than the i.d. of the tube and smaller than the o.d. of the tube and then just run a outside corner fillet weld.

From what I am finding out that grey is too hot. Why wouldn't I want full penetration on any weld joint? Shouldn't you always back purge with stainless? Playing with stainless is kind of a first for me.
 
From what I am finding out that grey is too hot. Why wouldn't I want full penetration on any weld joint? Shouldn't you always back purge with stainless? Playing with stainless is kind of a first for me.

Full penetration matters on butt welds because you need the weld joint to be as thick as the base material to transfer loads and stresses. If it is thinner than the base material, you have a stress riser which will make it a weak point. On some materials you will have that weak point and also the metallurgical affects of the heat due to welding working against you which can cause failure. For fillet welds, once fusion is achieved it is achieved. More penetration does nothing but put more heat into the part or prevent distortion (tons of calculations for this and also good idea for mechanized or automated welding). For fillet welds, the size of the fillet is what is important because that helps to transfer the stresses placed on the members.
 
You can find SS pipe all over the web, Amazon, Ebay, just google it and you'll find what your looking for, I always look on ebay and amazon to try and find the same thing for cheaper. Usually amazon is.
 
What gauge stainless? It does look like you need to run lower temp and a bit less filler and i bet itll come out clean, right there in your pic right in the middle where it looks like a start/stopping point its a rainbowed pinkish color, i bet lower temp and less filler will help quite a bit. What size filer were you using?
 
304L or 316L depending on what the specification calls for.

Check above the last set of pictures, I have the full weld spec listed.



Thank you! And be my guest haha!

Oops... Should have read... Duhhhh:ohdamn:

Gambler.. Try cleaning that up a little better before welding on it.. It will look a lot better and be even easier to weld on. It can never be too clean is what I told all the people i have helped.. Also.. Put a slight bevel on the end of the pipe if you ever do an outside corner like the one that you put a cap on.. It will help with penetration and let you move a little quicker so there's less heat concentration causing heat affected zones and poopy grey coloring :] also keep the torch angle a little closer to 90deg and it should help

Here's how I like to do my overhead
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Well, 2 days and 343 post later and I finally made it to the end. There is a lot of good info here and I look forward to the criticism in the near future.

Robert
 
Another NSX exhaust... not the easiest things to build..
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Made a honda catch can tonight.

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I feel like I'm trolling this thread but I couldn't resist, someone is actually running this manifold on a 4g63 too. I didn't do this but an acquaintance of a DSM buddy did and it had me cracking up... LOL

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:dsm:
 

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I feel like I'm trolling this thread but I couldn't resist, someone is actually running this manifold on a 4g63 too. I didn't do this but an acquaintance of a DSM buddy did and it had me cracking up... LOL

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:dsm:

Now I am sure my first welds will look horrible..

HOWEVER I must say, that manifold reminds me of some of the STD pictures I have seen when arriving at a new duty station... :hmm: It needs a doctor IMO
 
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WTF

...you read all of it? I just flipped through and looked at the pictures. :D

I tried to read so that I would understand what I was looking at :D

I am no so sure how well it worked but I did learn a thing or two..... hopefully ROFL

Robert
 
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