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XTD STAGE 4 Clutch?? Good??/ BAD??

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Guzman08

10+ Year Contributor
989
7
Jun 16, 2009
Valley Wide, Texas
just got an xtd stage 4 clutch and i am pretty nervous in putting it in.. not sure what to expect.. people say its good but i saw the supra forum and its fake.. . stock PP with 6 puck. . i just got mine today and it looks like the stock with a 6 puck. . what do u guys think.. IS XTD Stage for just that?? a stock PP with a 6 puck??
 
I had the stage 3 with sprung 6 puck that i ran in 3 different cars and was beat on constantly. IT was a real good clutch. The pp was a little weak, but it took the abuse well. I later bought the stage 4 un-sprung 6 puck and went thru 4 of the unsprung disc's in one year daily driving my car. They kept sheering the rivets off the hub. I decided to just have them send me the sprung 6 puck and i didn't have any more problems.
 
...yea the xtd stg. 4 sprung 6 puck just slipped on me. Today heavy throttle in third passing someone and it let go, the clutch has about 50-100 miles on it. No launches of course. It will still hold up to about 15 psi after that it'll slip. Good I guess im making decent power, bad I have to throw money at a act 2600 and pull the motor again. Mods in profile...


Yeah try breaking your clutch next time or that act 2600 is gonna slip on you too. General consensus is 500+ miles before playing. :thumb:

Never the less, it sounds like something is wrong. No turbo makes enough torque at 15psi for this clutch to slip. I'm interested to see what happened when the clutch comes out.



Op, please measure the step height of the flywheel when you get it apart.

Not true, I have seen plenty of people glaze the #### out of a clutch punching it in the first 100 or so miles.
 
ive been rocking this clutch for 2 yrs.. no problems and it also feel near stock. i have had experiences with sbr3500, act 2600 and exedy stage2. man i regret spending all that money.
 
I don't get how breaking in a clutch would make a difference when the clutch is in a stationary locked position... Unless either the pads aren't flat with the pp/ flywheel or there is a coating on the pads
 
Clutches have to break in just like a good set of brake pads. Thats why when you buy a good set of pads like ebc they have the break in material right on the pad to help seat it to the rotor faster. I've seen many people go right out and drive the car hard after a clutch install and sometimes get away with it but most of the time screw the clutch up and it never holds like it should. I have never seen a clutch not say in the directions to not break it in for roughly around 500 miles. If they didn't have to break in then why would the manufactures say to do so.
 
I believe there's a break in proceedure just never understood why. I haven't ever had a problem with any other clutch I've ever done, but the pedL felt real light, almost factory. Maybe I was sent the wrong pp.
 
Clutch should be holding with your setup. I have a very similar setup except an fp green instead of the turbo you have. I was making 412awhp and 434 awtq and it never slipped once! I just did a tranny rebuild and grabbed a new xtd stg 4 clutch kit to throw in while the tranny was out. I will soon be going e85 and should be over 500whp so ill let everyone know how the clutch holds up to that!
 
I also have a XTD Stage 4 Unsprung clutch and love it. ~20k miles daily driven hard, and still holding 420+ awhp. Will definatly buy this clutch again. Can't go wrong with the price either.
 
I get about 10k of very very abusive 460whp driving. I launch mine many many times per day.

I have run 2 sprung and one solid 6 puck with the heavy pp. The sprung ones were starting to rip the hub out of the disc when I took em out, so I switched to the solid. The 6 pucks are very hard on the flywheel tho.

If I knew a name brand clutch was going to last 2 or 3 times as long, I'd do that. But I really don't think they would.
 
12k later and my Unsprung stage 4 6 puck maybe giving me issues. I have a Fidanza lightened flywheel the past two months/1500 miles and i am having disengagement issues. No Idea if its the clutch or not but I have replaced the Master and Slave Cylinders, and new OEM TOB, Clutch Fork and Pivot Ball. Clutch drag is no bueno. Anyone else have Drag?
-shane
 
12k later and my Unsprung stage 4 6 puck maybe giving me issues. I have a Fidanza lightened flywheel the past two months/1500 miles and i am having disengagement issues. No Idea if its the clutch or not but I have replaced the Master and Slave Cylinders, and new OEM TOB, Clutch Fork and Pivot Ball. Clutch drag is no bueno. Anyone else have Drag?
-shane

The friction surface on your flywheel is warped. Don't you know not to use an aluminum flywheel with a puck clutch? Get an ACT flywheel and a new clutch.

Just make sure your expectations of this clutch is about a 3rd of what youd expect out of a name brand clutch.
 
The friction surface on your flywheel is warped. Don't you know not to use an aluminum flywheel with a puck clutch? Get an ACT flywheel and a new clutch.

Just make sure your expectations of this clutch is about a 3rd of what youd expect out of a name brand clutch.

i have found a warn pedal assembly......
 
These clutches are great, I've used the stage 3. You certainly can't beat the quality for the price...
 
I ended up taking the tranny off and finding that the lw flywheel that came with the kit was not true and was only clamping on a quarter of the disc. The pp and pp side of the disc looked right, but the other side was not fully contacting the flywheel.
 
Hey everyone, I'm having clutch problems and I was searching the database for any type of information on good clutches and etc. I'll admit that I am new to driving manual cars, but I would like something I can depend on.

What happened was... I was learning the friction point to my current clutch, and practicing soft launches under 2k, I managed to do a few good and decided to go on the road. So i pulled out the drive way, soft launch, but after i was engaged I picked up throttle a lil bit, shifted into second, and approached a stop sign so I clutched in, swtiched to neutral, braked, and proceeded to soft launch again to do my u turn and head back in the opposite direction. Was perfectly fine, no slipping occuring.

I pulled into the driveway, let the car run with ebrake and neutral, then turned it off. Turned it back on and decided to goto my cousins house a few blocks down... And was doing perfectly fine. At my second stop sign in his direction I stalled, and then again after waiting for a car in oncoming to get by a double parked car on my side. I reached his location, u turned again, and clutched in to neutral... and left it running with ebrake on.

My cousin got in to try my beast of a car out (its a beast to me because its my first car awd and turbo manual) and it was slipping... At low RPM we can accelerate but when we shift into a different gear it doesn't speed up.. Just revs while barely accelerating.

Parked it back in the yard, and decided that the clutch was burned... So thats why I'm here , looking for something to replace whatever I have in there (i have no information on what i bought besides that i'm running 16-17 psi and that i have the exhaust to keep up with that... though one of the welds failed. If need be I can record a video of the problem, but either way I would like to replace the clutch.

I keep seeing different combinations from you guys, Fidanza fly with XTD clutch..

Exactly what pieces do I need to buy/ to make sure I got everything I need... and where can I learn more about master and slave clutch stuff? and this whole extender rods situation as well. I want to know as much as I can, and invest the best way possible as well..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAG...n|Year:1996&hash=item2c5fb40db5#ht_4687wt_954

considering that one.
 
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i personally tryed a stg4 xtd with the spring kit broke it in 500 miles on a freshly build motor. at about 2000 4 of the 6 springs fell out and the ribbets all came loose.
IMO this kit is cheap but you get what you payed for. so what i expect right?

bottom line its junk.
 
I ended up taking the tranny off and finding that the lw flywheel that came with the kit was not true and was only clamping on a quarter of the disc. The pp and pp side of the disc looked right, but the other side was not fully contacting the flywheel.

Gee.... I wonder why.... "uh I romped on my brand new clutch with 100 miles and its slipping what a pos"... can you please correct your statement to "the flywheel was true before I abused it and didnt follow directions"
 
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