1G XTD clutch with ACT flywheel

[lowboost13]

Has anyone ever had a problem with step height using an act 11 lbs flywheel and an xtd stage 4 clutch. My trans grinds going into every gear if you shift to fast.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Could be a adjustment issue do some adjustments first, adjust the clutch.

 

[lowboost13]

Could be a adjustment issue do some adjustments first, adjust the clutch.

Already tried adjusting didnt help.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Have you bled it did you use a oem tob, every gear keep bleeding it.

 

[lowboost13]

Yes oem tob and bled it numerous times but i think my slave mast cylinder is bad cause i found out its dripping on the inside

 

[lowboost13]

Hey guys, my clutch feels like shit and was wondering if its my fork and pivot ball. I used my old ones and I will be replacing them tomorrow. I was also wondering if I should shim the pivot ball while I was at it. The reason I want to shim it is because the ACT flywheel was resurfaced. Im running an act 11lbs. flywheel, XTD stage 4 unsprung clutch, OEM TOB, new clutch master cylinder, and the pedal assembly was rebuilt. The picture I attached is of the fork, does it look like its in the right position?

 

[spyderdrifter]

If there's no wear on your shift fork, it shouldn't be the problem. Only shim the pivot if needed. What exactly does the clutch feel like? Could be a number of things, but can't diagnose without more info.

I was under the impression that 1G DSMs were cable clutch cars, not hydraulic.

 

[lowboost13]

If there's no wear on your shift fork, it shouldn't be the problem. Only shim the pivot if needed. What exactly does the clutch feel like? Could be a number of things, but can't diagnose without more info.

I was under the impression that 1G DSMs were cable clutch cars, not hydraulic.

Nope 1g are not cable. The clutch has a lot of free play and feels spongy. Iv tried adjusting it but its all the way out and only felt a little better.

 

[curt-s]

When the flywheel was resurfaced, did you get the step height checked? Even though spec is ~0.610", some people run a little more than that to help disengagement; sometimes 0.615"... though that's totally different for every car as the geometry is always ever-so-slightly different. I wouldn't recommend it unless everything else has been verified to be in spec.

I assume you verified that the slave isn't leaking either.

With the possition of that fork, you're fairly centered, which is somewhat good, but a lot of the time the "better" way is to be a bit more towards the front of the engine (timing belt side) without going crazy. I shimmed my pivot ball for a Fidanza 3.2 setup with aluminum flywheel and it caused my fork to lean heavily towards the driver side. When I pressed the clutch, it dropped the RPM as I believe I was overextending the fingers causing exponential load and idle couldn't keep up. Naturally, I removed the shim and readjusted and no drop but it drags.. then both cylinders went .

What you might want to check is if the fork is bent. A stage 4 shouldn't do that, but you haven't listed the age, so it could still be a possibility. The pivot ball may also be worn as you haven't listed that as new either.

Shimming the pivot ball is one of those last resort measures when all other parts have been verified as good.

 

[spyderdrifter]

If it fees spongy, you may have an air pocket in the line. Bleed the line and see if that helps.

 

[lowboost13]

When the flywheel was resurfaced, did you get the step height checked? Even though spec is ~0.610", some people run a little more than that to help disengagement; sometimes 0.615"... though that's totally different for every car as the geometry is always ever-so-slightly different. I wouldn't recommend it unless everything else has been verified to be in spec.

I assume you verified that the slave isn't leaking either.

With the possition of that fork, you're fairly centered, which is somewhat good, but a lot of the time the "better" way is to be a bit more towards the front of the engine (timing belt side) without going crazy. I shimmed my pivot ball for a Fidanza 3.2 setup with aluminum flywheel and it caused my fork to lean heavily towards the driver side. When I pressed the clutch, it dropped the RPM as I believe I was overextending the fingers causing exponential load and idle couldn't keep up. Naturally, I removed the shim and readjusted and no drop but it drags.. then both cylinders went .

What you might want to check is if the fork is bent. A stage 4 shouldn't do that, but you haven't listed the age, so it could still be a possibility. The pivot ball may also be worn as you haven't listed that as new either.

Shimming the pivot ball is one of those last resort measures when all other parts have been verified as good.

The flywheel was cut to 0.610 and i ordered a new fork and pivotball i might shim the ball to compensate for the cut off the flywheel. I tried bleeding the line a million times i dont think theres an air pocket. And the slave cylinder is not leaking so i dont think that is the problem.