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2G Worn Clutch Pedal Assembly?

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99OZDSM

15+ Year Contributor
267
43
Jun 16, 2007
Virginia Beach, Virginia
Never had any issues with clutch engagement or drag. Over the past week or so my engagement point has dropped closer to the floor and shifting has been sporadic. I adjusted the rod under the dash and shifting was great again. Today, I was getting locked out of 1st gear and after watching Jafros clutch adjustment video (and Jack's, which seems conflicting to jafro), I think my clutch pedal assembly is worn. What do you guys think? See picture below. This car has had act 2600 clutches since 2001, car has 69000 miles on it.

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To me it sounds more like a worn master or/and slave cylinder. It's time to replace them. Just in case, check the pedal assembly if it has a crack somewhere. and also look for any sign of clutch fluid leakage under the dash, around the slave cylinder and on the clutch line. If you would replace the master/slave cylinder I recommend to replace both the cylinders in the same time.
 
If I'm not mistaken, 2g's had a better pedal design that doesn't typically suffer from the common 1G worn assembly. I could be wrong though.

I'd guess a worn master.

To me it sounds more like a worn master or/and slave cylinder. It's time to replace them. Just in case, check the pedal assembly if it has a crack somewhere. and also look for any sign of clutch fluid leakage under the dash, around the slave cylinder and on the clutch line. If you would replace the master/slave cylinder I recommend to replace both the cylinders in the same time.

Thanks for your responses guys. I put in OEM master and slave cylinders about 20k miles ago so they should be good. No leaks under the dash but I did not check my slave for leaks. Also did Act Streetlite/Act 2600 disk, OEM fork, pivot ball, to bearing, and seals a little over a year ago. Did not have clutch drag after install. Car shifted amazing until recently. It has slowly changed feel and I was watching Jafros video that showed an aligned clutch/brake/throttle pedals, which my clutch pedal looks way off compared to.

Also of note. I adjusted the master rod according to Jack's video. Turned rod in until I couldn't push the clutch fork all the way in, then backed off half a turn and checked that the clutch fork moved freely. Did this and am experiencing clutch drag. I can get into 1st gear now at least but it doesn't feel right and can still experience lock out.
 
Have you checked it for crankwalk? The clutch/pedal will start giving you issues too, if the engine develops crankwalk. Hopefully it’s not.

At the OP's mileage of 69k miles, crankwalk shouldn't even be a thought, more so being that the OP has a '98 that has the split thrust bearing which eliminates the crankwalk problem. Everyone needs to quit automatically assuming crankwalk is the immediate root of problems. It doesn't happen quite as often as everyone thinks it does. I've had one crankwalked engine out of countless 4g63 engines, and I unknowingly bought it in that condition.

OP, I would check you master and slave cylinders as well as try to check the pivot ball spacing. I would by far trust Jafro's clutch video over Jack Trans video. His is more in dept and detailed, all while showing it on the car, not on a table like Jack's with very few parts and poor audio quality. Jack's video can be very misleading since there's nothing there for good reference. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure we can't adjust the pedal on the 2G car at all. I never tried it, but I have removed and installed several on my own cars, and have never seen any adjustment points. It's just a pedal attached to a bracket that gets bolted to the firewall and dash bar with 6 nuts/bolts. Check those parts though, because those are the real adjustment points. There are posts somewhere on the forum that go into detail on how to adjust the shift fork for proper alignment in the "window". Too far one way gets you clutch drag, too far the other way and there's no engagement.
 
At the OP's mileage of 69k miles, crankwalk shouldn't even be a thought, more so being that the OP has a '98 that has the split thrust bearing which eliminates the crankwalk problem. Everyone needs to quit automatically assuming crankwalk is the immediate root of problems. It doesn't happen quite as often as everyone thinks it does. I've had one crankwalked engine out of countless 4g63 engines, and I unknowingly bought it in that condition.

OP, I would check you master and slave cylinders as well as try to check the pivot ball spacing. I would by far trust Jafro's clutch video over Jack Trans video. His is more in dept and detailed, all while showing it on the car, not on a table like Jack's with very few parts and poor audio quality. Jack's video can be very misleading since there's nothing there for good reference. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure we can't adjust the pedal on the 2G car at all. I never tried it, but I have removed and installed several on my own cars, and have never seen any adjustment points. It's just a pedal attached to a bracket that gets bolted to the firewall and dash bar with 6 nuts/bolts. Check those parts though, because those are the real adjustment points. There are posts somewhere on the forum that go into detail on how to adjust the shift fork for proper alignment in the "window". Too far one way gets you clutch drag, too far the other way and there's no engagement.

I did check the "window" and the fork is sitting pretty centered there. Will also take a look at my slave and master again. I might as well try bleeding it since that will be simple.

I know that clutch pedal alignment is mainly a 1g issue but jafro specifically mentioned that clutch pedal assembly wear can cause issues. And to me, my clutch pedal is sitting offset to the left and slighty crooked. That is why I posted the picture of my pedals in the 1st post. Front to back pedal play feels fine but there is some play left to right. And I noticed if I press the clutch to the floor, it goes straight back but moves to the right at the end of the travel is I push it far enough. I'll take a closer look at all the moving parts tonight.

I don't know, just troubleshooting and looking for ideas from you more experienced guys.
 
I've never noticed the pedal being able to do that. Good thing to look at the next time I have a clutch problem. If you end up needing a replacement pedal, if they are unable to be rebuilt, I think I got a spare I'd give up for dirt cheap.
 
I've never noticed the pedal being able to do that. Good thing to look at the next time I have a clutch problem. If you end up needing a replacement pedal, if they are unable to be rebuilt, I think I got a spare I'd give up for dirt cheap.

Well my initial suspicion was correct. Messed with the clutch pedal and was able to force it back into alignment. This gave me around an inch more of pedal travel to push the system. There is an impression in the floor/carpet that the clutch pedal will sit in at the bottom of its travel, apparently. Well my clutch was so off to the left that it hit a raised portion of the floor. Hope this makes sense. Anyway the car went into all gears great as before and clutch didn't drag anymore. And then after a short drive my clutch pedal started to shear off and wouldn't push in the master anymore. The clutch pedal arm is basically almost in 2 pieces now. Unfortunately had to get a tow home. So, yeah I may be interested in your clutch pedal assembly if it's in good condition!

Anyone have any ideas on reinforcing the pedal assembly? I don't think they sell them new anymore.
 
Well my initial suspicion was correct. Messed with the clutch pedal and was able to force it back into alignment. This gave me around an inch more of pedal travel to push the system. There is an impression in the floor/carpet that the clutch pedal will sit in at the bottom of its travel, apparently. Well my clutch was so off to the left that it hit a raised portion of the floor. Hope this makes sense. Anyway the car went into all gears great as before and clutch didn't drag anymore. And then after a short drive my clutch pedal started to shear off and wouldn't push in the master anymore. The clutch pedal arm is basically almost in 2 pieces now. Unfortunately had to get a tow home. So, yeah I may be interested in your clutch pedal assembly if it's in good condition!

Anyone have any ideas on reinforcing the pedal assembly? I don't think they sell them new anymore.

Yeah, I'll check through my parts in the morning when I get back home. Will send you a PM once I got it.
 
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