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Worn clutch pedal assembly w/OEM clutch?

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TalonJohn94

20+ Year Contributor
590
4
Jan 30, 2003
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Has anyone NEEDED new clutch assembly bushings even when car has only used OEM clutches?

I have replaced Master Cylinder, Slave cylinder is fine, bled the system forever, and backed the master cylinder adjustment bolt almost all the way. It still engages 1mm off the floor. The pedal play got a little worse after screwing around with it to do the master cylinder.

I have the bushing kit w/pedal on order right now, because I was going to do it anyways but now I don't even want to drive my car. I thought it was only really bad after ACT 2600 installs.

Has anyone else had this problem, with an OEM clutch I mean?
 
Yes, a dsm with the stock oem clutch can have all those symptoms! Especially a dsm that sees a lot of stop-and-go traffic.

When I rewelded my clutch pedal assembly, I had to replace my worn out bushings because they had so much slop.
 
Replacing the bushings is a walk in the park :D ... but taking out that pedal assembly to work on it is another thing!

I say it as a joke but replacing an awd tranny was less frustrating! To make it easier on yourself, just unbolt the driver's seat to make room... you'll need it. Really, it's the lack of space, clearance, view and OXYGEN that makes it a difficult job. It took me 2 full days to complete the job... but I'm not a fast mechanic! :p
 
Of Course.

When I got my car, it had 212K OEM'ified miles on it, and the whole clutch and shifter system was worn the heck out. Clutch pedal had about 2 inches of slop, the master and slave were shot, the shifter bushings on Both sides were non-existant. I could move the shifter around like it was in neutral whenever I was in a gear.

It was all easy to fix. The clutch pedal assembly isn't as hard as everyone makes it out to be. I'm 6'6, 275 and I was able to get mine out with only having to remove the drivers side knee-panel and steering column.
 
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