1G Will ARP studs crack block?

[TNT_DSM]

I followed arps instructions on my 1g tsi studs. Nothing in the instructions says 1/4 turned backed off after finger tight. So I have everything back together with a cometic mls OEM size gasket...but the studs are bottomed out hand tight with a little bit more hand pressure. Arp just says screw in hand/ finger tight. Why would arp not recommend 1/4 turn back if it cracked blocks while bottomed out? Will I be safe? Has anyone gotten a cracked block with the studs this way? How can I fix it? Also nuts are torqued to 90 ft lb.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I followed arps instructions on my 1g tsi studs. Nothing in the instructions says 1/4 turned backed off after finger tight. So I have everything back together with a cometic mls OEM size gasket...but the studs are bottomed out hand tight with a little bit more hand pressure. Arp just says screw in hand/ finger tight. Why would arp not recommend 1/4 turn back if it cracked blocks while bottomed out? Will I be safe? Has anyone gotten a cracked block with the studs this way? How can I fix it? Also nuts are torqued to 90 ft lb.

Clean out the thread holes, finger tighten them in the block dry. Finish installation.

The use of ARP lubricant is also what helps keep the stuff from turning in the block. So make sure to use it in the right places.

I'm using L19s torqued to 110ft/lbs and hand tightened them in the block and no issues seeing nearly 50psi on a stock 1g head gasket.

Don't overthink it.

 

[TNT_DSM]

Clean out the thread holes, finger tighten them in the block dry. Finish installation.

The use of ARP lubricant is also what helps keep the stuff from turning in the block. So make sure to use it in the right places.

I'm using L19s torqued to 110ft/lbs and hand tightened them in the block and no issues seeing nearly 50psi on a stock 1g head gasket.

Don't overthink it.

Sweet, just see mixed opinions all over this site. I haven't had any experience with them yet. I cleaned the threads good, installed the studs dry, and just the top side of washer, and nuts have the arp lube. Only going to see 15 to 20 psi with this turbo. Eventually I'll get a bigger and better turbo.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Sweet, just see mixed opinions all over this site. I haven't had any experience with them yet. I cleaned the threads good, installed the studs dry, and just the top side of washer, and nuts have the arp lube. Only going to see 15 to 20 psi with this turbo. Eventually I'll get a bigger and better turbo.

if thats how you installed them and then torqued to 90ft lbs in increments youll be fine.

its also a good idea to go back through and re-torque the after a few heat cycles too.

 

[jdxnc]

Blocks crack when there's fluid in the bottom of the hole, blow them out with compressed air and you won't crack it.

 

[curt-s]

Indeed. The ARP lube is what ensures that the nut turns properly and freely together with and against the washer. Once the stud is hand tightened and seated, it's not even really going to want to turn because the path of least resistance is the nut turning instead.

Just be aware and don't freak out when you see some glitter in your oil on the change. ARP lube is comprised of fine metal particulates and will take god awful long time to dissolve. In many cases, it never completely does. The more ARP lube you use, the more (and longer) you'll see it.