ARP Head Studs No Washers ?

[bad71camaro]

Right On! -True, I hated that idea of grinding with the head off of the car, BUT... (ENTER: Some useful tricks I learned from the car audio/security days) -Everytime I was widening an inner door skin to accomodate a larger speaker and had to use my air saw, rather then get metal shavings all inside a door, I used an old speaker's manget (and in this case, an endless supply of shop rags, and my after market rare-earth magnets from my oil pan) to form a quick web of rags and high powered magnets to catch any debris from the use of the cut-off wheel.
Add to that that I used a 90* wheel that I cut into the MM, paralell with the cylinders. -In my experience with my last head swap, I found that the "hood" in the MM didn't interfere as much as the "hood's" lip that faced the P/S of the car. ~15 minutes with the manifold & busted knuckles, or 15 seconds with the die grinder, another 30 seconds with the rags and the magnets, and another 30 seconds with a compressed air powered vaccume.

-Either way -like you said, "..whatever works..." -I was just trying to point out some things I had to work around with using those ARPs for the first time.

Oh,

BadCamaro, be sure to pick up a solid 1/2" drive 12 point 1/2" socket (if you don't already have one) to torque down those ARPs... Someone told me that they were 14mm 12 point nuts on those ARPs. -They were wrong. OOPS! -Never mind that... I seen your profile, you are running a 6 bolt in your '93. -I dunno what size those 12mm ARP nuts are (the above was for 7 bolt 11mm ARP nuts).

I might have gave off the wrong impression I am not doing the head gasket myself , dont trust myself on dsm's yet just sb chevys . But I will be there the majority of the time that mechainc is working on it and he is pretty good with dsm's plus master certified. So he will have to figure out how to get the washers on there which I am sure he will have no problem with. I did order washers from arp the were only 80cents apeice so no big deal.
One problem that I have noticed though is the one of the nuts will not fully screw down onto the top of the studs. It is something with the nut because othere bolts screw down fine on the stud. Both the stud and the nut dont seem to have any damaged threads, it will go down on there about a quarter of the way and then it has to be forced. I am sure you can proably get it to go down the hole way but I thought that it might make the tourqe reading off. Any suggestions about this besides getting a new nut.

P.S. thanks for all the help guys

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Just so you know, those ARP studs go in ONLY one way into the block... As long as you get the side of the stud with the Alen socket on it facing Up and blank side of it down into the block, the threads should all work fine (they have different thread pitches on either end).

-My guess is you were trying to screw the nut on the side of the stud that goes into the block.