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wide band o2

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spic21

10+ Year Contributor
240
1
May 14, 2010
albany, Louisiana
ok if yall have seen any of my other post then youve already seem that i am trying to tune my talon tsi that i built many yrs ago. anyway long question short. i had put a new o2 sensor in it back when i did build. how do i know if its a wide band o2? i dont remember what we got back then and am under the impession that is what i need to tune it correctly
 

man this tunning stuff is just way over my head. but im learning. so after reading that i should be able to at least half ass tune it for now with data logger and afc2. im not trying to go fast yet and dont expect it to be perfect. i just want it to be drivable and more dependable. then im going to get ecmlink, another IC and bigger turbo. but first i feel like i need to learn basic on tunning with what i have. would i even need this if i get ecmlink?
 
You would need the sensor, not the gauge. If I'm not mistaken, ECMLink has an integration where you can wire in your Wideband sensor and it will read it for you.

But yes, you'll need this to tune your car safely. In fact, it is regarded as one of the top 3 priorities when upgrading, along with a Boost gauge.

For now you need to focus on supporting mods before you get into the real meat of modding your car. Fuel delivery, power transference(transmission/drivetrain), basic maintenance, and preventive mods will be a life-saver for when you start putting down power. Upgrade slowly and surely and you'll be great. Start trying to put down power with no support and things start breaking.

Before you upgrade to a bigger turbo, you want to be sure that you can tune for the added airflow/density, accommodate with the right amount of fuel, be able to log knock, and of course tune.
 
You would need the sensor, not the gauge. If I'm not mistaken, ECMLink has an integration where you can wire in your Wideband sensor and it will read it for you.

But yes, you'll need this to tune your car safely. In fact, it is regarded as one of the top 3 priorities when upgrading, along with a Boost gauge.

For now you need to focus on supporting mods before you get into the real meat of modding your car. Fuel delivery, power transference(transmission/drivetrain), basic maintenance, and preventive mods will be a life-saver for when you start putting down power. Upgrade slowly and surely and you'll be great. Start trying to put down power with no support and things start breaking.

Before you upgrade to a bigger turbo, you want to be sure that you can tune for the added airflow/density, accommodate with the right amount of fuel, be able to log knock, and of course tune.


thats the problem im having now i built this motor with a friend and then ended up buying it from him when he got sick of it. and it has alot of mod already. this is whats in it now.
Bolt-on Modifications:
small 16g turbo greddy blow value Walbro 255 Fuel Pump 660 injector aeromovite fuel reg w mod. fuel rail and 6AN fittings 2g exhaust maniflod 3in downpipe with 3in thermal exhaust Prothane Motor & Transmission Mounts i have a lt1 mas air with the kit to convert it(not installed because i need to learn to tune what i got first

Engine Management:
Apexi AFC 2 interior gauges: digital fuel pressure, boost gauges, exhaust gauges

Engine Internals:
Ross Racing pistons forged aluminum (bore 3.367) Eagle ESP forged steel H-Beam connecting rod Ross Racing rings ARP main stud kit Clevite 77 Crank and rod bearings Crower springs and retainers HKS 272 intake and exhaust cams 3 angle value job Cometic head gasket

Drivetrain Modifications:
act clutch (dont remember witch one)

thats why its been such i bi*** to just get it to a good running point. thinking i need to get someone to tune it for me but there no shops that mess with this around here. everything is muscle cars. that was actully why we built it. we wanted to show these poeple that they can be spanked by a 4 cyl. ill get whatever i need just having a hard time learning all this tunning without someone here to help with it.
 
thats the problem im having now i built this motor with a friend and then ended up buying it from him when he got sick of it. and it has alot of mod already. this is whats in it now.
Bolt-on Modifications:
small 16g turbo greddy blow value Walbro 255 Fuel Pump 660 injector aeromovite fuel reg w mod. fuel rail and 6AN fittings 2g exhaust maniflod 3in downpipe with 3in thermal exhaust Prothane Motor & Transmission Mounts i have a lt1 mas air with the kit to convert it(not installed because i need to learn to tune what i got first

Engine Management:
Apexi AFC 2 interior gauges: digital fuel pressure, boost gauges, exhaust gauges

Engine Internals:
Ross Racing pistons forged aluminum (bore 3.367) Eagle ESP forged steel H-Beam connecting rod Ross Racing rings ARP main stud kit Clevite 77 Crank and rod bearings Crower springs and retainers HKS 272 intake and exhaust cams 3 angle value job Cometic head gasket

Drivetrain Modifications:
act clutch (dont remember witch one)

thats why its been such i bi*** to just get it to a good running point. thinking i need to get someone to tune it for me but there no shops that mess with this around here. everything is muscle cars. that was actully why we built it. we wanted to show these poeple that they can be spanked by a 4 cyl. ill get whatever i need just having a hard time learning all this tunning without someone here to help with it.

Sweet Jesus, you leapt in head-first.

My advice would be to NOT listen to me from now on. That's quite a list you have there and I'm not experienced with it to that degree. Certainly someone with more expertise in the field will be more than willing to help out.

All I can suggest is to get some sort of wideband reading and adjust your AFR's accordingly.

Sorry that I've now become useless. Haha.
 
Sweet Jesus, you leapt in head-first.

My advice would be to NOT listen to me from now on. That's quite a list you have there and I'm not experienced with it to that degree. Certainly someone with more expertise in the field will be more than willing to help out.

All I can suggest is to get some sort of wideband reading and adjust your AFR's accordingly.

Sorry that I've now become useless. Haha.

no problem man. im just glad when someone tries to help at all this car has been sitting here for a long time. if i dont get it figured out soon im just gonna have to sell it and go back to what i know how to do and thats muscle cars. just gettin aggravated because i know it can be a fast car.
 
thats why its been such i bi*** to just get it to a good running point. thinking i need to get someone to tune it for me but there no shops that mess with this around here. everything is muscle cars. that was actully why we built it. we wanted to show these poeple that they can be spanked by a 4 cyl. ill get whatever i need just having a hard time learning all this tunning without someone here to help with it.

I think you just need patience at this point. It takes a LOT of time and lots of reading. That isn't a "change the jets and ignition advance springs" kind of car you have (bet you know that huh? :D).

Slow down, walk away from the car for a while and read/absorb everything you can for a couple of days. Then go back to it with a fresh attitude and some more knowledge.

That approach will work wonders. ;)
 
There's a guy with an ad in the classifieds that does remote tuning for like 75 bucks. You should check it out.
 
There's a guy with an ad in the classifieds that does remote tuning for like 75 bucks. You should check it out.

Remote tuning, that's brilliant. Haha. Such a logical answer when you think about it.
 
hey just wanted to throw a few things your way. for instance, you have a fuel pressure reg, correct? when the car is idling, set it to the pressure you want with the vaccum hose off. a good base pressure is like 38-42 psi, not sure what mine is set to.

make sure yout base timing is set, i think its 5 btdc, with a timing light. make sure to ground the wire by the battery and the engine is fully warmed up.

assuming you havent put on the maf and translator, you can easily put it in. setting it is simply for now. all you would do is adjust the injector size knob to the proper injector size you have. then u would adjust your fuel using the afc. this i deffinitaley recommend looking up. i found the instructions and it was pretty easy actually.

i have my car set up this way. although i do not have a wideband, i have a turbo timer that reads a/f ration from the stock o2. not the best idea but i made it happen. getting a wideband o2 soon. shoulda done that a while ago.

all the rest you just have to read the forums and teach yourself. but take your time and read everything u can and that u want and need to know. its all here on these forumns.

:thumb:
 
hey just wanted to throw a few things your way. for instance, you have a fuel pressure reg, correct? when the car is idling, set it to the pressure you want with the vaccum hose off. a good base pressure is like 38-42 psi, not sure what mine is set to.

make sure yout base timing is set, i think its 5 btdc, with a timing light. make sure to ground the wire by the battery and the engine is fully warmed up.

assuming you havent put on the maf and translator, you can easily put it in. setting it is simply for now. all you would do is adjust the injector size knob to the proper injector size you have. then u would adjust your fuel using the afc. this i deffinitaley recommend looking up. i found the instructions and it was pretty easy actually.

i have my car set up this way. although i do not have a wideband, i have a turbo timer that reads a/f ration from the stock o2. not the best idea but i made it happen. getting a wideband o2 soon. shoulda done that a while ago.

all the rest you just have to read the forums and teach yourself. but take your time and read everything u can and that u want and need to know. its all here on these forumns.

:thumb:

yea i been reading on here for months. i have pages and pages printed that i read all the time. just not used to these cars or computer controlled cars at all. really think i need to get this mmcd working on my palm. i just dont get along well at all with the program im using now. i did message the remote tunning guy just waiting on a responds. im gonna check my timing this weekend because im pretty sure its off. have my radiator getting fix right now. but it should be on this weekend. i am correct in thinking that i just move the CAS up and down to adjust timing right?
 
I would do as much research on your car as you can, it isnt that hard it does take time. Start with the basics and go back to stock if you have to. Patience.
 
I would do as much research on your car as you can, it isnt that hard it does take time. Start with the basics and go back to stock if you have to. Patience.

im very patient. i really cant go back to stock. stock was blown to bits. and stock injector are in pretty bad shape. rest is mostly internal
 
Yeah, to adjust timing, the car must be warmed up. Once warmed up, use a jumper wire to ground out the plug by the battery. Ill try to get up a pic for u. Then with the timing light connected to battery and number one spark plug( closest plug to timing belt), u adjust by turning the CAS.

If u have a timing light thats adjustable just leave it set to 0 degrees. While pointing the light at your crank pulley, turn the CAS until the mark on the crank pulley lines up with the 5 degrees btdc on the lower timing belt cover. Once u got it, lock down the CAS. and ## done.

Also, before u remove the grouned wire, thos would be a great time to adjust your idle as well. Simple enough, just turn the BISS screw until u have your idle where u want it.
 
Yeah, to adjust timing, the car must be warmed up. Once warmed up, use a jumper wire to ground out the plug by the battery. Ill try to get up a pic for u. Then with the timing light connected to battery and number one spark plug( closest plug to timing belt), u adjust by turning the CAS.

If u have a timing light thats adjustable just leave it set to 0 degrees. While pointing the light at your crank pulley, turn the CAS until the mark on the crank pulley lines up with the 5 degrees btdc on the lower timing belt cover. Once u got it, lock down the CAS. and ## done.

Also, before u remove the grouned wire, thos would be a great time to adjust your idle as well. Simple enough, just turn the BISS screw until u have your idle where u want it.

yea i remember something about grounding out the plug by batt from yrs ago but dont remember exactly how it worked. i would love a pic of this. i looked it up in my manual but cant find anything on setting timming. i have vfaq opened here but cant really see what he plug he grounding in pic
 
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