ECMlink Why is my tune so messed up

[RocCitySlayer]

I have been reading and playing with link alot latly, but for seem reason I cant seem to figure out cruise tuning..
heres a log. When I driving intemps stay down but at idle they seem to rise pretty fast

 

[Calan]

I have been reading and playing with link alot latly, but for seem reason I cant seem to figure out cruise tuning..
heres a log.

That log doesn't look that bad actually, other than your wideband just flat isn't working.

Where did you get the InjBatAdjust numbers for your injectors? You have those set higher than stock, but the global DT is lower than usual for 1050's. As long as the end result is what you need (and I have no idea what that is), it doesn't matter; but it's usually easier to either set the InjBatAdjust values to the total desired at each point and run a global DT of 0, or leave InjBatAdjust values at stock and run a global DT value that gets you where you need to be. The first method is better if you have accurate injector data, as it gives you more precision at each voltage point.

It looks like you still have a few random misfires going on as well. Have you inspected your ignition system for any issues?

Based on your MAFComp curve (the area you have worked on), I'd say you have a vac leak somewhere, such as a hacked PCV system or maybe a small leak at the IM, TB, or injector seals.

When I driving intemps stay down but at idle they seem to rise pretty fast

That's normal. While cruising around, air is flowing through the IC and the engine bay, cooling the IC pipes and incoming air. While sitting still idling, all that engine heat is soaking the IC piping.

*****

Keep reading and learning; you're making progress. You have to learn to crawl before you run... and based on your previous threads, you've been trying to win the Olympic qualifiers before learning to walk.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

That log doesn't look that bad actually, other than your wideband just flat isn't working.

Where did you get the InjBatAdjust numbers for your injectors? You have those set higher than stock, but the global DT is lower than usual for 1050's. As long as the end result is what you need (and I have no idea what that is), it doesn't matter; but it's usually easier to either set the InjBatAdjust values to the total desired at each point and run a global DT of 0, or leave InjBatAdjust values at stock and run a global DT value that gets you where you need to be. The first method is better if you have accurate injector data, as it gives you more precision at each voltage point.

It looks like you still have a few random misfires going on as well. Have you inspected your ignition system for any issues?

Based on your MAFComp curve (the area you have worked on), I'd say you have a vac leak somewhere, such as a hacked PCV system or maybe a small leak at the IM, TB, or injector seals.



That's normal. While cruising around, air is flowing through the IC and the engine bay, cooling the IC pipes and incoming air. While sitting still idling, all that engine heat is soaking the IC piping.

*****

Keep reading and learning; you're making progress. You have to learn to crawl before you run... and based on your previous threads, you've been trying to win the Olympic qualifiers before learning to walk.

Im saving up for a new wideband because I think mine is shot. it will read a value that matches link when the car is off but it wont when its running which kind of confuses me. I dont remember where I got those InjBatAdjust numbers. I was searching trying to find them and those were the ones I found. Any idea where I could find the actual numbers I need? Deadtime doesnt seem to do much for me
Also wouldnt a vac leak be found during a BLT?


And Is it normal for intemps to be 97* at cruise and rocket to 150* just sitting at a red light?

And another thing, By looking at the logs would you say the car is atleast half decent to safley drive if I dont get on it?

 

[Calan]

I dont remember where I got those InjBatAdjust numbers. I was searching trying to find them and those were the ones I found. Any idea where I could find the actual numbers I need?

Each individual set is different, but you may scan this thread to see if Tom has tested a set like yours, which will get you close.

Remember that the actual resulting deadtime at each voltage point is a combination of the value in the InjBatAdjust table and the global deadtime.

Also wouldnt a vac leak be found during a BLT?

Depends on where it is and how you are testing it. The most commonly overlooked leak is a vented VC breather, since under boost (and a BLT test), the PCV valve blocks air from flowing out of that point...but under vac the PCV valve is open and excess air gets drawn in.

And Is it normal for intemps to be 97* at cruise and rocket to 150* just sitting at a red light?

150* is excessive, but not unrealistic in summer heat if you have high under-hood temperatures. Is your exhaust manifold and turbo hotside wrapped or coated?

And another thing, By looking at the logs would you say the car is atleast half decent to safley drive if I dont get on it?

Seems to be fairly decent, during closed loop at least. In open loop, there is no way of knowing since you aren't logging an accurate WB or boost.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Each individual set is different, but you may scan this thread to see if Tom has tested a set like yours, which will get you close.

Remember that the actual resulting deadtime at each voltage point is a combination of the value in the InjBatAdjust table and the global deadtime.



Depends on where it is and how you are testing it. The most commonly overlooked leak is a vented VC breather, since under boost (and a BLT test), the PCV valve blocks air from flowing out of that point...but under vac the PCV valve is open and excess air gets drawn in.



150* is excessive, but not unrealistic in summer heat if you have high under-hood temperatures. Is your exhaust manifold and turbo hotside wrapped or coated?



Seems to be fairly decent, during closed loop at least. In open loop, there is no way of knowing since you aren't logging an accurate WB or boost.

I was testing it at the coldside of the turbo. I BLTed to about 35psi or so, Held perfect untill I pushed in the valvestem on the tester. I also have my VC venting to a greddy catchcan.



Its been almost 95* everyday where I live, I have been trying to do nightime crusing to keep temps down, Also nothing is wrapped, I planned on wrapping it with titanium header wrap.


So if it seems decent in closed loop I should be ok doing normal crusing then?

 

[Calan]

I also have my VC venting to a greddy catchcan.

Is the catch can sealed and tied back to the turbo, or does it have a breather on it? If it's open (breather), then that is your vac leak.

So if it seems decent in closed loop I should be ok doing normal crusing then?

Closed loop is normal cruising.

The switch-over point between open and closed loop is dependent on load and throttle position. If you want to know when your ECU is going to switch between the two, you can see the values it uses in the OpenLoopThresholds DA table.

If you are going to drive the car before you get a working WB and can start on the open loop tuning, stay out of the throttle as much as you can. You can extend the closed loop range somewhat by following the instructions on this page under the "Advanced Usage" section.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Ok thanks
It does have a breather on it. How would I be able top tie it back to the turbo?

 

[Calan]

How would I be able top tie it back to the turbo?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Nice, thanks alot man. Its nice knowing that things are improving. Im actually starting to figure things out
Appreciate it

 

[DSMTyson]

Calan to the rescue!

 

[Calan]

Nice, thanks alot man. Its nice knowing that things are improving. Im actually starting to figure things out
Appreciate it

NP.

If you want some personal advice based on my observations, you just need to slow down a bit. You've been going 300mph with mods and the stuff your trying to do with your car (based on your threads), without fully understanding what it is your doing.

When you read something, make sure you really understand it. If not, read it again until you do. It's easy to read something and "think" you have it, but really don't.

Just my .02 of course.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

I switched out my stock 2g maf with an Evo8 maf. I was starting to think my 2g maf was defective, so I tried to switch them out and here is my idle out come
Looks decent to me

 

[Calan]

Why did you think your MAF was defective? I saw no indications of that. In fact,

That log doesn't look that bad actually, other than your wideband just flat isn't working.

 

[jtmcinder]

Does anyone else feel that the answer to the thread-title question is pretty clear?

 

[Calan]

Does anyone else feel that the answer to the thread-title question is pretty clear?

*****

OP, I'm about to give up. You finally got closed loop working pretty well, so you decided to just go swap out the MAF and start over on getting airflow calibrated? WTF

You know you have a WB issue and a vac leak due to an improper PCV setup. Why not fix the stuff that's broken instead of replacing what seems to be working?

 

[clipto]

To bad my original post was deleted, I knew all to well where this is going. I say this out of kindness and help as I don't want you to blow up your car. But as previously stated please after seeing so many your threads I would recommend you slow down and do some research I am sure your car is fine you just need to learn the way they work. As much advice was given to you I can't say much more. So I would recommend to go back and make sure everything is dialed in on your car yes I'm talking about boost leaks and all of that. Then go ahead and find a local tuner that can help u maybe a freelancer tuner or by all means try yourself. I just recommend my train of thought I have always read. People can tell you how to do things but unless you actually do it yourself and learn then you will understand. Trust me there enough dsm info over many years to get your brain hurting. So good luck man hit the books.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

*****

OP, I'm about to give up. You finally got closed loop working pretty well, so you decided to just go swap out the MAF and start over on getting airflow calibrated? WTF

You know you have a WB issue and a vac leak due to an improper PCV setup. Why not fix the stuff that's broken instead of replacing what seems to be working?

Iv been wanting to run the evo8 one for a while, so I decided to switch it out before I get everything completly dialed in so I wouldnt have to start all over again.
Im in the process of getting a new wideband, and Im going to get that vacum leak taken care of. I noticed that my intake temps havent climbed as high as they did and my car sounds like its idleing stronger

To bad my original post was deleted, I knew all to well where this is going. I say this out of kindness and help as I don't want you to blow up your car. But as previously stated please after seeing so many your threads I would recommend you slow down and do some research I am sure your car is fine you just need to learn the way they work. As much advice was given to you I can't say much more. So I would recommend to go back and make sure everything is dialed in on your car yes I'm talking about boost leaks and all of that. Then go ahead and find a local tuner that can help u maybe a freelancer tuner or by all means try yourself. I just recommend my train of thought I have always read. People can tell you how to do things but unless you actually do it yourself and learn then you will understand. Trust me there enough dsm info over many years to get your brain hurting. So good luck man hit the books.

I understand your trying to help bro. I have been reading alot latly and starting to learn alittle bit more about these cars

 

[Calan]

Iv been wanting to run the evo8 one for a while...

Why? Are you over-running your current MAF?

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Why? Are you over-running your current MAF?

No probably not, Just read some good things about the evo8 maf. I wanted to put it on before I had my car tuned the first time, but the threads on my filter adaptor were shot so I finally fixed that and switched them out before I got to far.

If things dont work out then ill just put my 2g maf back on and reload my tune if I have to

 

[jtmcinder]

Iv been wanting to run the evo8 one for a while, so I decided to switch it out before I get everything completly dialed in so I wouldnt have to start all over again.

That makes so little sense that it hurts. How, exactly, would fixing a WB and/or vac leak be part of starting "all over again" if and when you swap MAFs?

 

[RocCitySlayer]

That makes so little sense that it hurts. How, exactly, would fixing a WB and/or vac leak be part of starting "all over again" if and when you swap MAFs?

When did I say that fixing that stuff would be starting over?
I said starting all over again would be going from a 2g maf to the evo8. Wouldnt 2g maf calibration be different then evo8 maf calibration?

 

[Calan]

Wouldnt 2g maf calibration be different then evo8 maf calibration?

The process is the same...the values would just be a bit different.

No probably not, Just read some good things about the evo8 maf.

This kind of stuff is exactly what I was trying to explain to you, but apparently it didn't register. You don't even know if you need an Evo8 MAF, but yet you wanted to just throw one on because "you read some good things about it". The biggest issue you have right now is that your airflow wasn't/isn't calibrated...and as soon as you got it close, you go and change the one thing that affects airflow the most when there is no reason to, at least not at this point.

I don't have time to keep reviewing changes made to logs due to random unnecessary equipment changes; much less when there are known issues that haven't been dealt with. Hopefully someone else does.

Good luck.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

The process is the same...the values would just be a bit different.



This kind of stuff is exactly what I was trying to explain to you, but apparently it didn't register. You don't even know if you need an Evo8 MAF, but yet you wanted to just throw one on because "you read some good things about it". The biggest issue you have right now is that your airflow wasn't/isn't calibrated...and as soon as you got it close, you go and change the one thing that affects airflow the most when there is no reason to, at least not at this point.

I don't have time to keep reviewing changes made to logs due to random unnecessary equipment changes; much less when there are known issues that haven't been dealt with. Hopefully someone else does.

Good luck.

Didnt know that changing the maf was going to be that much of a problem
Sorry if im wasting anybodys time, wasnt my intention. Ill just read more and more and use the info you have given me already and if I cant do it anymore ill just bring it to stm again and have them retune it when I get things fixed

 

[clipto]

All good man it took me a long time before I even dial anything in on ecmlink. You got to understand that there is no magic trick to magically make your stuff work. Best advice into to get it tuned and learn from there and what they do. It took me long time to learn how to dial anything in. So all out respect when I said read I meant read because there so much involoved then just magically making a car run tune wise. I read so much my brain hurt, so don't worry you will get It eventually.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

I just installed my new to me isc, now this is what is happening. It doesnt seem to matter if I adjust the biss or the throttle screw. It wont idle steady at all. It kinda seems like its worse then with a broken isc