ECMlink Why is my tune so messed up

[RocCitySlayer]

I dont understand Why my tune is so messed up right now. All I did was mount my FMIC the right way and got a new HX35 CHRA. Thats all I did. Why would my tune be so off? Any help is appreciated. I just got my car running again after almost 2months and I just want it to be safe again

 

[Calan]

At a quick glance...

1). Your DA tables are WAY too rich. AFRatioEst is 8.2 in some places!

2). Why are you pulling so much timing, especially with the sliders? You are running 3* of timing at 6000 RPM...that alone is enough to cause all sorts of issues. With that low of timing and AFRs in the 8's, your turbo and exhaust manifold are screaming at you right now. You're basically running anti-lag during WOT.

3). Your battery voltage is low, at 12.7v max throughout the pull.

4). How much boost are you running? On that Holset (assuming airflow is calibrated), you should be much higher than 35 lbs/min, unless you are running very low boost. Have you done a proper BLT?

5). You don't have your wideband defined in the pin assignments on the ECU inputs tab. Notice the WB signal during the cruise log; it looks exactly like a switching O2 signal.

In short, your "tune is messed up" because....your tune is messed up.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

At a quick glance...

1). Your DA tables are WAY too rich. AFRatioEst is 8.2 in some places!

2). Why are you pulling so much timing, especially with the sliders? You are running 3* of timing at 6000 RPM...that alone is enough to cause all sorts of issues.

3). Your battery voltage is low, at 12.7v max throughout the pull.

4). How much boost are you running? On that Holset (assuming airflow is calibrated), you should be much higher than 35 lbs/min, unless you are running very low boost. Have you done a proper BLT?

5). You don't have your wideband defined in the pin assignments on the ECU inputs tab. Notice the WB signal during the cruise log; it looks exactly like a switching O2 signal.

In short, your "tune is messed up" because....your tune is messed up.

The original tune wasnt done by me. The tune was good before my turbo blew. Now after changing it my tune is messed up bad.
1: I wouldnt even know what to change them to.
2: I myself have never touched the sliders or anything to do with timing.
3: My altenator isnt the best and I have 8000k H.I.Ds
4: Im only running 24-25psi, and yes I did a boost leak test and found no leaks before my last CHRA went my airflow was reading 47 lbs/min
5: The wideband gauge was doing the exact same thing as it was doing in ecmlink

 

[Calan]

The tune was good before my turbo blew. Now after changing it my tune is messed up bad.

In all my years of working on these cars, I've never seen a case where simply changing a turbo caused the timing sliders in ECMLink to adjust themselves.

I don't know how, why, or when it happened...but the "tune" you have in ECMLink now is horrible. You need to zero everything out and start over.

If you think that ECMLink somehow reverted to an old tune because of an electrical issue (ground a battery terminal while disconnecting power or something?), then post up a log from when it was a "good tune", and load that one up. If you continue to romp on the car at 25psi with this tune, you are likely going to have a bad day at some point in the not-too-distant future.

Besides whatever it is going on with Link, you need to fix your mechanical issues (wideband, battery voltage, and anything else).

 

[RocCitySlayer]

This is from before the turbo blew. It felt alot better then, than it does now. This does'nt really look any different to me, but at the same time I don't know if Im even looking at it right

 

[Calan]

Pretty much exactly the same. The only thing that jumps out at me is that this one has the wideband defined on the front O2 sensor, but not defined in the top list for logging, and the TPS adjustment is a bit different.

Nothing in the tune changed, for all practical purposes. Sorry, but it was just as messed up before you swapped the turbo as it is now. You probably changed something in the airflow that is making you notice it more, but regardless.... it's the same bad deal before and after.

I hate calling it a "tune"; it's more like an "anti-tune". I know that's not what you want to hear, but it's the best way I can think of to describe it.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Im just confused on why it feels so different. Is it an extremly unsafe tune? should I not drive the car?

 

[Calan]

Is it an extremly unsafe tune? should I not drive the car?

I can't answer that without being there to see the car.

There are some basic things you could try to adjust, but without knowing the mechanical condition of the car and other factors, it wouldn't be wise to just throw stuff at it.

I'll give you an example or two...

Normally, targeting an AFR of 8.5:1 is extremely rich. But, your battery voltage is really low...so you may not be flowing enough fuel from your pump, and it's probably affecting your injectors as well. So to compensate, target AFRs may have to be overly rich just to get enough fuel to the cylinders. And since your WB is acting goofy, I wouldn't trust it to know what the actual AFR is in the first place.

Same thing on the timing. Who knows where your base timing is, and what is really going on? While those almost dangerously low timing numbers look bad on the surface, there could be a mechanical issue that they are masking.

What kind of injectors are they? Where did the global fuel and deadtime values come from?

There are just too many unanswered questions, and unfortunately only someone knowledgeable that can put their hands on the car can find those answers. (No disrespect intended...just calling it like I see it. )

 

[snowborder714]

Here is what I would do if I were you.

1. Zero out fuel/timing sliders.
2. Get wideband logging.
3. See if you can increase battery voltage. Don't load the Evo maps mentioned below before you get this at least up to the low/mid 13v range.
4. Do proper BLT and fix all leaks.
5. Check base timing marks (just to make sure).
6. Check ignition timing (ground timing in link and use timing light).
7. Check base fuel pressure.
8. Make sure TPS is set (v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]).
9. Load Evo 8 timing/fuel DA maps to use as base, after looking them over and making sure it's what you want to run (evo8v3settings [ECMTuning - wiki])
10. Watch and follow video 8 (ECMTuning, Inc.)
11. Post up idle log after car is warmed up and a 3rd gear pull, making sure to watch out for any knock.
12. Anything else Craig mentioned that I didn't.


In summary - start over

 

[RocCitySlayer]

What would make the Ecu stay in open loop when ideling? The lock in open loop box is unchecked

 

[snowborder714]

See notes on open and closed loop here.
fueltrimupdatepoints [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[RocCitySlayer]

For some reason my wideband still keeps jumping around like the front o2 sensor would. My fuel trims and airflow per rev look good in link but the wideband is weird.
In link it matches exactly what the wideband is reading. point for point.

I can't answer that without being there to see the car.


Same thing on the timing. Who knows where your base timing is, and what is really going on? While those almost dangerously low timing numbers look bad on the surface, there could be a mechanical issue that they are masking.

What kind of injectors are they? Where did the global fuel and deadtime values come from?

There are just too many unanswered questions, and unfortunately only someone knowledgeable that can put their hands on the car can find those answers. (No disrespect intended...just calling it like I see it. )

Base timing is 10*
injectors are FIC 1050's and the fuel and dead time came from the last tune
And no disrespect taken at all

Also, could a bad ecu cause any of the problems im having?

 

[Calan]

Base timing is 10*

Why? It should be 5* BTDC

Also, could a bad ecu cause any of the problems im having?

The problems you are having are due to a combination of mechanical issues and the settings in ECMLink. I see nothing that points to a bad ECU here.

****

I can't make this any more clear: You HAVE to fix your mechanical issues before even thinking about "tuning" the car.

Your battery voltage is too low. Period. Start there...once that is fixed, then move on to getting your timing right. It needs to be 5* BTDC, since that is what the ECU references.

Once that is done, figure out what is going on with your wideband.

I'm also not convinced you have done a proper BLT and exhaust leak check, based on some of your previous threads.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

I just spent the past 2 1/2 hours doing a boost leak test and going through my car and I found one leak. It was leaking at the flange that connects the BOV. I fixed that leak, I also leak tested up to 35psi. The engine held ALL of the air untill I pushed on the air stem that is on my boost leak tester. Once I pushed that in the air that was in the engine was released through there.

I also cleaned my battery connections and cut the old wire to give it fresh wire. I seem to have gained .4-.5 more voltage.

I was also trying to get dial in my idle and it seems pretty good to me.
But for some reason I still cant for the life of me get my wideband to log correctly. Im starting to think maybe my wideband sensor is junk, or maybe I have some kind of setting in ecmlink set wrong

 

[Calan]

Based on your O2 sensor trace, you have a lot of idle misfires. What kind of plugs are you running, and what are they gapped to?

You aren't going to see your wideband reading properly, because you aren't telling ECMLink where it's located for logging. You also need to lock the factory inputs.

 

[snowborder714]

He has it setup in the ECU Inputs tab, Craig. It's the linear wideband on the rear o2 spot.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Based on your O2 sensor trace, you have a lot of idle misfires. What kind of plugs are you running, and what are they gapped to?

You aren't going to see your wideband reading properly, because you aren't telling ECMLink where it's located for logging. You also need to lock the factory inputs.

Ngk bpr7es gapped at .28
What factory inputs need to be locked?
sorry for the stupid basic questions im still new to all of this esp the tuning part

He has it setup in the ECU Inputs tab, Craig. It's the linear wideband on the rear o2 spot.

Am i missing some other settings I need to change to log my wideband?

 

[Calan]

He has it setup in the ECU Inputs tab, Craig. It's the linear wideband on the rear o2 spot.

My bad. I was looking at his previous idle_may7 log.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Does my idle log look atleast half way decent?

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Not exactly a cruise but here is what everything looks like when im driving around town. Also, how accurate is the afrest? My wideband is not responding and I dont have the money to buy a new one or even a sensor. I just really want my car to be sfae to drive.

Also is there a way to "semi-tune" the fuel delivery through free revving in neutral? Sorry if it sounds stupid Im just asking

 

[Calan]

Also, how accurate is the afrest?

Also is there a way to "semi-tune" the fuel delivery through free revving in neutral?

You really need to spend some time reading and learning how your ECU and fuel system works.

There is a lot of info in this thread about setting up ECMLink and tuning in general:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...stest-boost-gauge-not-equal-attached-log.html

You should also read everything you can on the ECMLink wiki pages. Everything you need is there; you just have to read it.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Nice, Thanks for that link
Just started reading it and I already read a few things im doing wrong

Heres the latest log. I kind of have my idle dialed in but not quite there yet.
My main question is why would my wideband give a reading when the car is not running but wont give a reading when it is?

 

[RocCitySlayer]

My fuel trims seem to look pretty fine but my airflow seems to still be alittle high. But I still cant figure out why my wideband would read afr when the cars off, but wont when its running

 

[snowborder714]

Have you verified the wiring on the wideband? As much as I hate to say it, maybe it's time to try swapping it for an Innovate unit?

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Yes I have, and I would love to get a new wideband but its alittle more then I can afford right now Also, do my fuel trims and everything else look atleast halfway decent to you?