2G Who rebuilds your transmission?

[Idle_Serge]

Jacks has been a long-time supporter of our community, and has a lot of great feedback from customers. TMZ (Tim) has been a contributor here on our site for many years, and does great work. Those are always the two I recommend, but we're building a more complete list of all the builders here:

DSM Transmission Builders

A comprehensive list of active transmission rebuilders that are widely known to specialize in rebuilding DSM manual and automatic transmissions and supply transmission parts.

www.dsmtuners.com

Great list; thanks for posting it!

I've reached out to TeamRip and White Shed but have yet to hear back. I see TMZ is likely still backed up. I'll try the rest! My trans is leaking from the gear selector seal and pin number two is completely seized; I'm hoping to find a replacement selector...rod...thingy...

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20250906_151543 by Sergio Zapien

 

[twicks69]

I have around 30 jobs here at the moment, I would suggest TRE, WhiteShedSpeed or Jack's if you want it done quicker currently. As for removing the solid pins from the selector arm, you NEED to use an air hammer with 3/16" roll pin punch attachment. Trying to do it free-hand with a hammer and punch will get you nowhere. It is also one-way, so you have to knock out the pins from the backside towards the "front" of the transmission. Sometimes you need a little heat and some PB blaster or WD40 to help it come out smoother.

The shift shaft seal is MD747660.

With the 3/16" pneumatic hammer punch, I would recommend grinding a taper on the tip so that when you are hammering the piss out of it, you do not mushroom the tip and jam it in the bore.
Here are the ones I use -
set - https://a.co/d/gHO7M89
3/16" only - https://a.co/d/41MnFfU

Air hammer - https://a.co/d/8TfXMlL
Flat hammer bits (I use the 4" flat tipped one for pin installs) - https://a.co/d/aeCnHyQ

 

[Idle_Serge]

I have around 30 jobs here at the moment, I would suggest TRE, WhiteShedSpeed or Jack's if you want it done quicker currently. As for removing the solid pins from the selector arm, you NEED to use an air hammer with 3/16" roll pin punch attachment. Trying to do it free-hand with a hammer and punch will get you nowhere. It is also one-way, so you have to knock out the pins from the backside towards the "front" of the transmission. Sometimes you need a little heat and some PB blaster or WD40 to help it come out smoother.

The shift shaft seal is MD747660.

With the 3/16" pneumatic hammer punch, I would recommend grinding a taper on the tip so that when you are hammering the piss out of it, you do not mushroom the tip and jam it in the bore.
Here are the ones I use -
set - https://a.co/d/gHO7M89
3/16" only - https://a.co/d/41MnFfU

Air hammer - https://a.co/d/8TfXMlL
Flat hammer bits (I use the 4" flat tipped one for pin installs) - https://a.co/d/aeCnHyQ

This is outstanding information; exactly the parts I need to supply my brother with since we had to grind down one of his air hammer attachments to fit the hole.

Even with the air hammer, we struggled to remove the 2nd pin; resorted to grinding it down only to lose sight of where the hole actually is (basically sealed shut now). If it can be replaced entirely, I have no objection to go that route.

Regardless, I need to replace a transmission as the one I have is borrowed from @talonesi95t after I ran the 1st one with little oil. TRE nor WhiteShed have responded to me but I just sent Jack's an email in hopes of getting something lined up. Thanks again for taking the time @twicks69 !

Edit: We do have the shaft seal; I was more so hoping to find a replacement for the shaft given that the 2nd hole has been sealed up from the hammering we gave it :sad:

 

[twicks69]

You will need to drill it out, or work it from the other side a bit then with some heat to get it moving. There are no shift shafts available new anymore, they have been obsolete for years. And if you are going to do that, you will need to completely disassemble the transmission to remove its components internally to pull out the shaft. I would suggest taking some time to be patient and work on it further with heat, pb blaster/WD40, air hammer and bit. If you are at a last resort..... use a GOOD 3/16" drill bit, not some china crap, and CAREFULLY drill it out. Since you are dealing with the potential of an orientation issue centering it from the backside since you beat on it a lot, you would want to start from the front side and drill it out some. If you are worried about using heat around the shift shaft boot and seal, wrap the portion with aluminum foil to prevent burning of the rubber. This specific job can sometimes be easy, or it will require a lot of patience. Take your time as this pin is typically very stubborn to remove.

 

[Idle_Serge]

We are on the same frequency as you are about just drilling it - we'll likely remove the trans and take some extra time trying to resolve the orientation issue. We discussed reinstalling the selector arms to give us an idea of where the holes should line up, make some marks and take it from there. (My brothers have a few spare transmissions we can use as refences as well.)

On the shaft availability topic, I just received an email from Jack's stating that they would just swap out our damaged one for a new one...either the rep was just assuming it's still available or they have some in stock...we'll likely send another one with the complete shaft and levers just to be sure.

 

[twicks69]

If they got the parts, great, but I know they have been gone for a while as I had snapped up a bunch several years back.

Either way, i'm here to help if you have any other questions.

 

[Idle_Serge]

If they got the parts, great, but I know they have been gone for a while as I had snapped up a bunch several years back.

Either way, i'm here to help if you have any other questions.

Jack's has confirmed that the shifter shaft they have in stock are for the 1G and not the later 2G style. Just some info to pass along in case someone was looking to get a new shifter shaft with their rebuild.

 

[bastarddsm]

I'll get to your email as soon as I can. There is really only a few of us doing these, and no offense but y'all tear em up faster than we can fix them. Just like Tim, I'm a one man show with a lot going on.