White Smoke / Car Is Smoking White [Merged 7-9]

[Apeximprt2nr]

Alright guys, well I just finished my 14B install in my 95 GSX. All is well besides some minor oil leaks on the return line and the SS feed line at the filter housing. There was also a VERY minor coolant leak from the front banjo bolt on the turbo. I tightened it a tad and I think i went away. Now the turbo is spooling really late because I think there may be a leak before the turbo.
Now on to the problems.

1. The turbo does not smoke at all besides at WOT sometimes it blows out whiteish grey smoke. I'm trying to think of where it could be burning coolant. It never did this before the turbo install.

2. There was some white smoke the past 2 days at the manifold. I'm thinking its the shitload of PB Blaster that I sprayed all over the car but I'm not sure.

3. There's a smell coming from my engine that I can smell if I pop my hood and it becomes more noticeable when I'm driving and really get on it. It smells like burning plastic sort of, with a mix of burning rubber. The lower heat shield is not on the car because it's a pain to get on and I haven't put it back on because I haven't had time. Nothing is touching anything hot so I 'm confused...The only possible thing is maybe I pout on a new 4 ply exhaust mani. gasket as well as antiseize on most of the bolts and the turbo-mani. bolts.

Any help? Thanks.

 

[Dr DSM]

I know the turbo its fine. But I do not know if it was smoking before because as soon as I knew the turbo was blown I didn't drive it anymore. And I am sure I spilt coolant somewhere but you're long would it take to burn it all out?

 

[spyderturbo007]

You would be surprised at how long it takes that stuff to burn off. How long have you driven it since then? Is it smoking like a chimney or just a little?

 

[Dr DSM]

It smokes a little at start then alot once warmed up. Then while drive any time I get on it it starts to dump white smoke

 

[spyderturbo007]

That sounds a little worse than just some spilled coolant. Did it do this immediately after install, or did it start after you drove around for a little building boost with the new turbo? You might want to do a compression test just to be sure. It's pretty easy to do and you can borrow the compression tester from your local auto parts store through their "lend a tool" program everyone has these days.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Sounds like something isn't right inside the turbo. When you get on it the increased pressure is forcing coolant or oil into the exhaust. Your symptoms are like a blown turbo or blown hg. If its that bad it won't take long before your low on one or the other. Check your fluids. Which one is low?

 

[Dr DSM]

It was right after install. I guess I will test the head gasket bit I've never done it before. I assume its easy but I have no idea what the process is

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Check it out.
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

Or if you know someone with a pressure tester you can to a leak test by pressurizing the system and seeing if your leaking coolant into the cylinders.

http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/cool/coolingSystem/coolingpressure.html

http://www.benplace.com/pressure_test.htm

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=DgxbPHX-W_M&desktop_uri=/watch?v=DgxbPHX-W_M

 

[spyderturbo007]

Here is the walk through I use when doing a compression test. Unfortunately, it's been pulled down so I have to give you a Wayback Machine link.

Oh, and make sure you keep the throttle to the floor while cranking.

 

[JusMX141]

Oil feed source? Any idea on oil pressure? How about your oil drain line- any kinks? Freshly-rebuilt turbos won't smoke without excessive shaft play unless there's something wrong with the oiling.

 

[spyderturbo007]

And in steps the turbo expert.

I'll just move out of the way now and let Justin take care of you from here. You're in good hands.

 

[JusMX141]

Yeah I was the one who did the work which has me puzzled- although judging by the condition of the 16G that was initially sent to be rebuilt (broken shaft, journal bearings seized in the housing) I think we have an underlying condition on our hands.

Reminds me of a situation with a local friend and customer: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/444131-turbo-failure-number-4-suggestions.html

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Thats what I'm was thinking. If its rebuilt and its doing that then it seems as if there may be a problem in the oil passage. Like a hairline crack that is leaking oil under pressure. Which would explain the increased smoke when getting on it.

Though like I said it could be coolant smoke as well. Tis why I suggested checking fluid levels to see which is being burned. And doing the pressure test + block test.

Also as Justin asked about oil pressure, if you've done anything to increase it(i.e. Bse or other) it could be blowing oil past the turbo seals.

Though I would think it would lessen as it warmed up as oil pressure decreases.

Not questioning your rebuild skills Justin this seems as a typical turbo with bad seals/seal problem. As it gets worse as it gets hotter because it may be burning in the exhaust and not in the cylinders. As the exhaust gets hotter as the car warms up thus burning more of the leaking oil.

To help rule out the hg remove rad cap when car is cold and let it warm up without it. This is ok I've done it before on. This keeps the pressure build up in the coolant system. Just dont rev it at all let it idle. If it still gets worse then I doubt its coolant your burning.

 

[mattrcspeed]

its the turbo had same problem with my fp green on my sti

alwasy send the turbo out get it rebuild pay a bit more money but know its fixed the right way

 

[JusMX141]

If its rebuilt and its doing that then it seems as if there may be a problem in the oil passage. Like a hairline crack that is leaking oil under pressure. Which would explain the increased smoke when getting on it.

The journals and oil passages are located within the center housing. If somehow the cartridge would be cracked along an oil passage, something I've never seen, it would just dump that oil back into the pan via the drain.

Though like I said it could be coolant smoke as well. Tis why I suggested checking fluid levels to see which is being burned.

Again, the water jacket completely surrounds the turbo's internals....if the water jacket would crack, the turbo would just dump coolant into the oil pan or outside the cartridge depending where the crack is located. It's virtually impossible for coolant to reach the exhaust system via the turbo.

A quick easy test if you ever suspect the turbo of doing things with your cooling system is to loop the water lines...the turbo doesn't need coolant to operate.

Not questioning your rebuild skills Justin this seems as a typical turbo with bad seals/seal problem. As it gets worse as it gets hotter because it may be burning in the exhaust and not in the cylinders. As the exhaust gets hotter as the car warms up thus burning more of the leaking oil.

....but a turbo with a fresh rebuild and zero shaft play could theoretically never burn oil unless there's something restricting it's ability to drain, or the pressure at the inlet is sky-high.

Thanks to FP for this handy illustration which explains how a restricted drain causes oil to bypass the seals.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Dr DSM]

Ok, so before I blew the turbo originally the car ran great. when i first blew the turbo the car started smoking a little bit, but i never drove it after it blew. the oil pressure gauge on my car never really worked since i bought it over a year ago. it will stay at the bottom and sometimes move around a bit but mostly it stays on low. I talked to the guy who owned it before me about it and he said it always did that but he could of just been saying that. once i removed the turbo i removed the banjo bolt from the top oil feed line to the head and it striped. i tapped it and helicoiled it perfectly and i did a good job of removing all metal shavings and it did not leak anymore. once i got the turbo installed it was smoking like i explained before. so i guess the first step is to test the head gasket

 

[dsmornothing]

Smoking more after the car is warmed up makes me say you have a pressure issue! Get a gauge and figure out what's up!

 

[JusMX141]

Smoking more after the car is warmed up makes me say you have a pressure issue! Get a gauge and figure out what's up!

+1....pressure or possibly even PCV; although he mentioned repairing the factory feed line from the head, and it's virtually impossible to over-oil one of these turbos from the head.

I had a guy a while ago that couldn't figure out why his freshly-rebuilt turbo dumped oil....turned out he had both valve cover lines routed to a ventless catch can. Basically the engine was breathing through the turbocharger seals, so zero oil was draining.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

The journals and oil passages are located within the center housing. If somehow the cartridge would be cracked along an oil passage, something I've never seen, it would just dump that oil back into the pan via the drain.

Again, the water jacket completely surrounds the turbo's internals....if the water jacket would crack, the turbo would just dump coolant into the oil pan or outside the cartridge depending where the crack is located. It's virtually impossible for coolant to reach the exhaust system via the turbo.

A quick easy test if you ever suspect the turbo of doing things with your cooling system is to loop the water lines...the turbo doesn't need coolant to operate.


....but a turbo with a fresh rebuild and zero shaft play could theoretically never burn oil unless there's something restricting it's ability to drain, or the pressure at the inlet is sky-high.

Thanks to FP for this handy illustration which explains how a restricted drain causes oil to bypass the seals.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I know they are located within the center housing I'm not that turbo illiterate. But I didn't know if a, crack could develope where it would allow oil into the exhaust. Could the broken shaft or seized bearing have messed up a surface allowing oil pass into exhaust under pressure or no?

Again I'm not turbo illiterate. When I said coolant burning I didn't mean through the turbo I meant through a,blown hg.

theatrically yes a fresh rebuild with no shaft play would not leak oil. But if he did bse and didn't port his ofh he might just have the pressure it takes to make it leak.

Or like you say possible restriction as well.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Smoking more after the car is warmed up makes me say you have a pressure issue! Get a gauge and figure out what's up!

Because oil pressure decreases as the car warms up?

But I do agree a gauge is deff needed.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

+1....pressure or possibly even PCV; although he mentioned repairing the factory feed line from the head, and it's virtually impossible to over-oil one of these turbos from the head.

I had a guy a while ago that couldn't figure out why his freshly-rebuilt turbo dumped oil....turned out he had both valve cover lines routed to a ventless catch can. Basically the engine was breathing through the turbocharger seals, so zero oil was draining.

Which would be crank case pressure not oil pressure.
And Wouldn't that kind of crank case pressure blow the dipstick out? Lol that would be alot of pressure to hold in.

And if it was a bad pcv system building crank case pressure he could just remove the side vc line and put a filter or leave it open(for testing purposes only of course.) And remove the dipstick to relieve any such pressure? Then he could start the car and let it warm up and see if that is in fact the case or not?

 

[dsmornothing]

Because oil pressure decreases as the car warms up?

But I do agree a gauge is deff needed.

Yes as the car warms up oil pressure does decrease.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Yes as the car warms up oil pressure does decrease.

Which would mean the problem should decrease as it warms up unless its getting worse simply because the exhaust is getting hotter burning more of the oil leaking.

Waiting for op update. Lol

 

[dsmornothing]

Which would mean the problem should decrease as it warms up unless its getting worse simply because the exhaust is getting hotter burning more of the oil leaking.

Waiting for op update. Lol

Wrong. Low oil pressure causes oil consumption.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Threw which area/component of the engine?

 

[Dr DSM]

the gauge doesnt work at all it just moves around randomly. where can i get a good gauge and whats a good brand